Maybe I'm naive for asking, but why not a TS and sled? Cut 7" strips on the TS and then set a stop for 7" on your sled. I would think this is much fasted than rough cutting on a band saw and then cleaning them up with a router.
Best way to flush trim lots of 3/4" plywood?
I'm looking to cut lots (hundreds) of approximately 7×7" curvy shapes out of 3/4" plywood, and was wondering what the best way is. I was leaning towards making a pattern, trimming pieces on a band saw as close as possible, then using a flush trim bit on a router table.
Was considering the Whiteside compression carbide bit or a narrower carbide bit from MCLS. But any idea how many feet of 3/4" ply these bits can cut before needing sharpening? I already tried a ~$10 MCLS flush trim bit and it dulled after cutting about two pieces. It's only important that one side of the wood is cleanly cut, so using just an upcut bit is possible, but mainly considering the Whiteside bit for its larger size/longevity before sharpening (would that be accurate?).
I thought about hiring out a someone with a CNC, but would rather do this myself. Not needing these all tomorrow or anything but want an efficient method to use in my own shop.
Is this a good route to look into or is there a better method altogether?
Was considering the Whiteside compression carbide bit or a narrower carbide bit from MCLS. But any idea how many feet of 3/4" ply these bits can cut before needing sharpening? I already tried a ~$10 MCLS flush trim bit and it dulled after cutting about two pieces. It's only important that one side of the wood is cleanly cut, so using just an upcut bit is possible, but mainly considering the Whiteside bit for its larger size/longevity before sharpening (would that be accurate?).
I thought about hiring out a someone with a CNC, but would rather do this myself. Not needing these all tomorrow or anything but want an efficient method to use in my own shop.
Is this a good route to look into or is there a better method altogether?
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
My exact thoughts! A good plywood blade on the TS and crosscut sled. = finished
Thanks guys I guess I should clarify. They are curvy shapes, definitely not "squares." I was giving dimensions roughly to estimate how much life each bit would have cutting these. Ive updated the original post to reflect that.
Maybe I m naive for asking, but why not a TS and sled? Cut 7" strips on the TS and then set a stop for 7" on your sled. I would think this is much fasted than rough cutting on a band saw and then cleaning them up with a router.
- builtinbkyn
My exact thoughts! A good plywood blade on the TS and crosscut sled. = finished
- papadan
Clarity of what's needed does seem to help on occasion! Buy a quality flush trim bit and make your template so you can trim any shape you need on the router table. I have $5 woodcraft bits that are still sharp after cutting hundreds of feet of wood.
Hundreds, how many hundreds? Repetitive stuff like that become so boring after a while you'll start dreading going out to the shop after a while. I'd go CNC route. Life is just to short. I'd spend my time building something more interesting.
Your mileage my vary
Your mileage my vary
Sometimes we all don't read the question before answering…I m looking to cut lots (hundreds) of approximately 7×7" curvy shapes out of 3/4" plywood, and was wondering what the best way is. I was leaning towards making a pattern, trimming pieces on a band saw as close as possible, then using a flush trim bit on a router table.
Was considering the Whiteside compression carbide bit or a narrower carbide bit from MCLS. But any idea how many feet of 3/4" ply these bits can cut before needing sharpening? I already tried a ~$10 MCLS flush trim bit and it dulled after cutting about two pieces. It s only important that one side of the wood is cleanly cut, so using just an upcut bit is possible, but mainly considering the Whiteside bit for its larger size/longevity before sharpening (would that be accurate?).
I thought about hiring out a someone with a CNC, but would rather do this myself. Not needing these all tomorrow or anything but want an efficient method to use in my own shop.
Is this a good route to look into or is there a better method altogether?
- huyz
That looks like a monster bit. I have a Freud 1/2 inch trim bit and have used it for years.
I think your approach sounds fine.
A band saw duplicating pin would really help by making the cuts fool proof and reduce the amount needed to be routed. I think the glue in the plywood would be the hardest on the bit, so getting that to a small consistent offset would be best for the bit.
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/bandsaw-duplicating-pin-set-by-peachtree-woodworking-pw1770/227994094.html
EDIT:
Hmmm, Rocker doesn't seem to carry it anymore.
Buy 2 bits of whatever you decide on, and then you can rotate the sharp one in while the dull one gets sent out to be sharpened.
I'm pretty sure I'm not that crazy yet. The OP said "7×7" squares." "Curvy shapes" never would have elicited my response.
Edit: Ah I see your later post. Thanks for giving me my sanity back LOL
Edit: Ah I see your later post. Thanks for giving me my sanity back LOL
I m looking to cut lots (hundreds) of approximately 7×7" curvy shapes out of 3/4" plywood, and was wondering what the best way is. I was leaning towards making a pattern, trimming pieces on a band saw as close as possible, then using a flush trim bit on a router table.
Was considering the Whiteside compression carbide bit or a narrower carbide bit from MCLS. But any idea how many feet of 3/4" ply these bits can cut before needing sharpening? I already tried a ~$10 MCLS flush trim bit and it dulled after cutting about two pieces. It s only important that one side of the wood is cleanly cut, so using just an upcut bit is possible, but mainly considering the Whiteside bit for its larger size/longevity before sharpening (would that be accurate?).
I thought about hiring out a someone with a CNC, but would rather do this myself. Not needing these all tomorrow or anything but want an efficient method to use in my own shop.
Is this a good route to look into or is there a better method altogether?
- huyz
Sometimes we all don t read the question before answering…
That looks like a monster bit. I have a Freud 1/2 inch trim bit and have used it for years.
I think your approach sounds fine.
A band saw duplicating pin would really help by making the cuts fool proof and reduce the amount needed to be routed. I think the glue in the plywood would be the hardest on the bit, so getting that to a small consistent offset would be best for the bit.
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/bandsaw-duplicating-pin-set-by-peachtree-woodworking-pw1770/227994094.html
EDIT:
Hmmm, Rocker doesn t seem to carry it anymore.
- RobS888
Duplicate
Bill, your not crazy
Have you thought about using a shaper.
If you had one you wouldn't need to band saw them first, you would need a good jig to hold them though.
If your doing hundreds I think I would consider it.
Sometimes we all don t read the question before answering…
- RobS888
Sometimes we all don't read the replies before answering!Thanks guys I guess I should clarify. They are curvy shapes, definitely not "squares." I was giving dimensions roughly to estimate how much life each bit would have cutting these. Ive updated the original post to reflect that.
- huyz
Have you thought about using a shaper.
If you had one you wouldn't need to band saw them first, you would need a good jig to hold them though.
If your doing hundreds I think I would consider it.
Thanks Jbay Actually after having my first cup of coffee this morning, I think the OP may have said "pieces" and not "squares". It was late when I read the post and replied. Watched the two hour season finale of The Treasure of Oak Island late on my DVR. Ah well, in any of the above cases, it seems like a lot of tedious work :O
Actually after having my first cup of coffee this morning, I think the OP may have said "pieces" and not "squares". It was late when I read the post and replied. Watched the two hour season finale of The Treasure of Oak Island late on my DVR. Ah well, in any of the above cases, it seems like a lot of tedious work :O
To attempt to answer the OPs question, the life of the bit depends on a lot of variables including quality of the bit itself, and how it's used. A solid carbide 1/4 inch bit should be able to cut several hundred feet of 3/4 inch plywood without dulling enough to dramatically affecting the cut.
If you have a lot of them to do, you may want to shop for a cnc shop to cut them for you. If you have your patter already and can be done with single tooling, should not cost too much. Your times worth something. If not, get a long top bearing bit, stack em with double sided tape and cut em in multiples. I did that with my wine rack holders for my wine cabinets i make till i got the cnc.
Good luck.
Good luck.
I'd get the Whiteside router bit as it's on sale. Good luck on your endeavors.
http://www.woodpeck.com/whitesideultimatetrimbit.html?_bta_tid=411860746576000619741452060468799766675351288740869453891798260195044551126686763688219&_bta_c=20rktedf9e5g18na1mqmve1mzs87s
Whiteside Ultimate Trim Bit - Combination
$193.11 $139.99 Sale!
4UDC9112
7/8" Diameter x 1-1/8" Cut Length x 1/2" Shank
Quantity
http://www.woodpeck.com/whitesideultimatetrimbit.html?_bta_tid=411860746576000619741452060468799766675351288740869453891798260195044551126686763688219&_bta_c=20rktedf9e5g18na1mqmve1mzs87s
Whiteside Ultimate Trim Bit - Combination
$193.11 $139.99 Sale!
4UDC9112
7/8" Diameter x 1-1/8" Cut Length x 1/2" Shank
Quantity
pin router.
They are copy machines and the right tool
for the job.
If the curves are mild, you can consider investing
in a small shaper and using a rub collar
and cutter to cut to the template. The
larger od of a shaper cutter makes a
cleaner cut.
Just be advised that this is likely to be a
tedious, dusty exercise.
They are copy machines and the right tool
for the job.
If the curves are mild, you can consider investing
in a small shaper and using a rub collar
and cutter to cut to the template. The
larger od of a shaper cutter makes a
cleaner cut.
Just be advised that this is likely to be a
tedious, dusty exercise.
Does it have to be plywood? A solid wood would be kinder to router bits. CNC will cost you more; they have to pass the cost of bits and sharpening on to the customer along with labor and machine depreciation. Either way, it will cost you about the same.
Yo Bill, we answered the original post just right. The OP came back and changed the information on us. As for doing this job, one good bit will handle it and not need sharpening. It will need cleaning several times to remove the pitch and glue that will build up and keep it from cutting!
Here's an inexpensive way of turning a regular router table setup into a pin router. Had to look up what a pin router is. Never heard of it MLCS Daisy Pin Router
MLCS Daisy Pin Routerpin router.
They are copy machines and the right tool
for the job.
If the curves are mild, you can consider investing
in a small shaper and using a rub collar
and cutter to cut to the template. The
larger od of a shaper cutter makes a
cleaner cut.
Just be advised that this is likely to be a
tedious, dusty exercise.
- Loren
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
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