Shark Guard - SGK1 (Rating: 5)

I read an article written by a hand surgeon for Popular Woodworking.

"In the hundreds of table saw injuries I've seen, I've yet to see an amputation from a table saw with an appropriate blade guard and splitter. There have never been many good reasons to remove the guard; now with better-designed saws, guards and riving knives, there are even fewer. I've seen woodworkers injured on the "backstroke" as they bring a hand back over an unprotected blade after a cut, those who didn't see the teeth as the blade slowed and some who just pushed their hands into the blade as the work lifted, fluttered or started to kick. It is gruesome - use your guard."

After reading that I decided that was a pretty convincing argument for getting one for my table saw.

I've been using my Sharkguard SK1 with the 2-1/2" dust port on my Delta, left tilt, table saw for 5-6 months now and I have to say I do really like it. At first it seemed like I was constantly having to take it off because I was ripping a board, or changing the height of the splitter for a thicker piece of wood, but those activities have become part of the set up routine when making a cut on the table saw.

Pros:

The Sharkguard SK1 does a good job with dust collection and a better job of keeping my fingers away from the saw blade.

It is easy to remove the shroud when ripping narrow boards or making cuts that don't go all the way through such as when using a dado stack

Visibility is quite good inside the shroud so you can see the wood and the blade.

The shroud easily raises as the wood is pushed into the front of the the shroud at the start of a cut.

Cons:

Thin waste pieces can and frequently do get wedged between the blade and the side of the shroud. I haven't had a waste piece catch on the blade though.

The waste side is open so any chips or dust that would come off that side will not be pulled into the shroud.

My miter bar (Woodhaven) hits the right side of the shroud when I am cutting on the right side of the saw (normal operation). I will likely get a new miter bar at some point.

You have to check the clearance of the wood underneath the clamp assembly. If the clamp assembly is too low the splitter has to be raised which entails removing the zero clearance plate and loosening the ratchet handle, then raising the splitter, tightening the handle, replacing the zero clearance plate, and reattaching the clamp assembly, and finally putting the shroud back on the clamp assembly. I keep mine set at about 1-1/2" or so since most of the wood I'm cutting is less than that thickness.

Details:

I tried building my own, several different versions, but none of the raising/lowering mechanisms worked well. They were also really cumbersome.

Door Wood Floor Gas Machine


Wood Bumper Flooring Automotive exterior Fender


Tool Wood Gas Screw Metal


Lead time was a couple of months, as Leeway Workshops was very busy with orders. Right now, according to their site, lead times are 1-2 weeks.

Set up was extremely easy. Following the instructions, I removed the factory mounting bracket and installed the one from Leeway. The adjustable splitter attaches to the mounting bracket (red piece).

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Vehicle


The clamp assembly is held in the 2 notches on top of the splitter.

Bumper Wood Gas Automotive exterior Machine


The dust hood is then slid onto the 2 pins and the retaining bracket is pushed down to secure it.

Wood Creative arts Tool Art Flooring


I have a separate 2-1/2" DC hose for the Sharkguard with a blast gate on it. I close the gate when the Sharkguard is not on the saw such as ripping narrow boards.

Wood Gas Electrical wiring Composite material Engineering


Gas Plumbing Plumbing fitting Bicycle part Auto part