New photos up now, and both working
Completely agree with Jerry's post quoted above. But, before gaining more understanding, I think I would avoid putting torque on a wooden member, and I would use the largest flat washers available to spread the compression load over a wider area.Hard to understand what you ve got. Can you post a pic of the whole swing-and show us where the bolts would go?
OK. thanks, Jim. I think I get the concept now. Here's a sketch of what I think the OP has built. I agree that the eye bolt should be installed in the top beam, not the angled brace-even if the swing is a little too wide and the chain has to angle out a little to catch the swing.I ve about concluded that the pictures are in need of a 90-deg rotation to the right to make sense. Then it would show the frame in upright position- jimintx
I thought going from 3/8 to 3/4 diameter might help spread the pressure more to prevent the bolt from being pulled through the wood sideways. Since it's at an angle, there's both downward and sideways force applied to it.I don t see how that would be any better than just drilling a hole. The key thing is to spread the pressure out on the back side. You ll want as large a fender washer as you can get for that, or even a metal plate to spread the load even further.
I know, I made it way more complicated. I should have planned this out beforehand.imo, youre over complicating it and trying to reinvent the wheel. KISS.
and use stainless forged eye bolts. stainless fender washers,too. you use them rinkety eye bolts in the pic and theyll open up over time.
think about it- 90%+ of the swings lifetime wont see crap for weight on it.