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Best finish for stabilized burl pen blanks

8710 Views 6 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Sawdust2
Could someone please advise me of the best finish for natural look and durability for a stabilized burl pen blank, I have seen buffing and wax, would this be enough to make the pens appearance remain nice for years to come? or does it need ca glue for the durability, any help will be appreciated.
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Is it pourous? If so, then I would go with the thick ca glue finish. If not, I think a few coats of 50/50 Behlen's 701/Woodturner's finish followed by carnuba wax would be just fine.
I usually use thin CA, its a good hard finish, or spray on polyurethane.
on burl wood - which is typically unstable - I apply 3 coats of CA glue (after filling any voids or cracks with a quick drying epoxy) - (letting it dry completely between coats) and then burn on several coats of mylands or shellawax friction polish. This has made a very glossy and durable finish for me that seems to last quite well on pens.
I apply a coat or two of Rennaisance Wax to pens made with stabilized blanks. On occasion if there is a void I'll fill it with CA glue before I sand it. I use micromesh sanding pads and sand up to 12,000 grit. That's all I do. I think the hardner in the stabilzed blank is stronger and more durable than CA glue or any other finish. RennaisanceWax is a great finish because it doesn't show fingerprints.
Thank you gentlemen for all the advice, I think I'm going to try the rennaisance wax since it is a stabilized blank. (and thats what I have on hand), Just wanting to make a nice pen for my mom's 60th birthday. Thanks for your help.
Craft Supplies out of Utah has a great friction polish that I use 90% of the time.

I also use CA to fill voids. And also if it is a porous wood or the grain needs filling. (Not much of that on stabilized burl.)

The "secret" I had to learn was that more coats of less finish is far better than fewer coats of thicker finish.

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