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I am definitely an amateur woodworker and I've been working on a bench that is more a worktable, built from 2×4s and plywood using a kit of metal brackets from Home Depot. This has been OK, but now I want to try more hand tool work and become more serious with my woodworking, so building a new workbench is my next big project. My questions is what type of vice would be the best for all around woodworking for an amateur on a budget? Face vice? Leg vice? Shoulder vice? Quick-release vice? Thanks.
 

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front (face) vise would be the easiest and most versatile to start with. quick release will make things easier and faster for you.

leg vise is practically the same as front vise but doesn't rack as much, and has a better grip. but may take a bit more work to build. I think it's worth it though - that's what I have now.

shoulder vise takes quite a bit of design and work to build - but if you do joinery edge work it can be very useful as you can clamp anything in it. the downside is that it takes more floor space since you'll need a 5th leg for the workbench.
 

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I find a face vice actually mounted on the end of my bench has been best for me. It functions as a face vice for a lot of things, and a tail vice combined with a row of dog holes.

I'm envious of Purplev's leg vice, because I am not there yet. I use a pair of handscrews clamped to the face of my bench with F-clamps if I need a true face / leg vice. It works best for me because I rarely build the same kind of thing more than once and the handscrew approach allows a lot of flexibility. It is not the fastest system though.

Every once in a while I get desire to do a leg vice with crotchet and a sliding deadman, but then I get thinking about what it would offer me over my current system other than another protrusion on the bench to bang into. Speed and of course "cool factor" are the only things it would offer…so I wait and say "On my next bench!..."
 

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If you are on a seriously restricted budget, you can get by with holdfasts. I don't advise getting a cheap vise. They are more trouble than they are worth.

Also, take a look at swirt's modifications for handscrews:

http://lumberjocks.com/swirt/blog/16295

These are AWESOME!! I can't say enough good about them. They could just about eliminate the need for other vises.
 

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I agree AaronK, a few holes in the apron can lead to nice applications of 3/4" pipe clamps. They are a little slower to adjust than other vises, but they are very accommodating. And of course you can get really carried away with them and build the "New Fangled" workbench and have amazing clamping options.
 

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links as promised:

http://www.angelfire.com/music2/construct/bnchthmb.html
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f81/workbench-4-foot-twin-screw-vise-cheap-15033/

those two guys have done an amazing job - especially the one with the foot pedal controls! i use a much simpler version for a vise on the side of my bench. if you drill several holes you can have a face vise that has a very wide and thick (and long, since there's nothing getting in the way) capacity…. and that's useful even if you do have a "proper" face vise in the corner.
 

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I built my bench back in the 80's and bought a Record 7" quick release vise for the end of it. I'm still happy. I put a cheap Craftsman on the face of the other end but seldom use it.

A good vice is a critical element of a bench. I just Google'd vices (not the bad kind) and I can't believe what the prices are now.

It looks like Shop Fox has a serviceable quick release http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D2524-7-Inch-Release/dp/B0000DD0VB/ref=dp_cp_ob_hi_title_1 at a reasonable price.
 

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Well for handplane use I think the one with the foot pedals would be better because you are planing against a solid bench top rather than some moveable panels. But being able to swap out other panels for tool bases is pretty cool in a small shop.
 

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so many choices! good point about handplaning on removable panels. moving those panels a bit farther away from the front of the bench (for righties) might help that. As is (per DaveR's image) they seem unnecessarily close to the front. switching them to the back would be just as good, i think, and solve the problem you brought up.
 
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