Beads Box

PurpLev said:

Carcass Design (which saw to use to cut the box?)

My mom is doing some amazing bead work. one time when I went with her to the beads store, I saw a small box/cabinet that the store used to store (no pun intended) the beads in, and thought it would make for a great way for my my to have all her beads organized - and I can make it.

After completing my handtool box (at least the general construction of if) it made me think that I can scale it down and use the same 'general design idea' for the beads box. plus some additions that will fit the situation.

As opposed to using box-joints (that I used for the handtools cabinet) I will be using dovetails on this one to give it a more presentational look, and I will also introduce a (maybe hidden) drawer on the lower part of this box.

Question: since I will not cut through all the way to separate the doors from the base of the box - it makes more sense to me to use a bandsaw for that cut -and "cut around" the door opening parts (leaving the lower drawer parts still attached to the main box) but since the box is quite large (12×10x10) it might be impossible to keep those cuts straight and perpendicular to the other parts… in which case a table saw would be a more precise way to go about -but that means I'll have to completely separate the front of the box and then reattach the front pieces that are NOT part of the doors back to the main box - does anyone have any suggestions which saw I should use? (I'm leaning toward the table saw, and reattaching the cutouts back)

Goals - making a functional/presentational box for my mom, and while at it - practicing dovetails, and box making. drawer fitting, drawer lining, and everything else that will comes along with it.

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Carcass Design (which saw to use to cut the box?)

My mom is doing some amazing bead work. one time when I went with her to the beads store, I saw a small box/cabinet that the store used to store (no pun intended) the beads in, and thought it would make for a great way for my my to have all her beads organized - and I can make it.

After completing my handtool box (at least the general construction of if) it made me think that I can scale it down and use the same 'general design idea' for the beads box. plus some additions that will fit the situation.

As opposed to using box-joints (that I used for the handtools cabinet) I will be using dovetails on this one to give it a more presentational look, and I will also introduce a (maybe hidden) drawer on the lower part of this box.

Question: since I will not cut through all the way to separate the doors from the base of the box - it makes more sense to me to use a bandsaw for that cut -and "cut around" the door opening parts (leaving the lower drawer parts still attached to the main box) but since the box is quite large (12×10x10) it might be impossible to keep those cuts straight and perpendicular to the other parts… in which case a table saw would be a more precise way to go about -but that means I'll have to completely separate the front of the box and then reattach the front pieces that are NOT part of the doors back to the main box - does anyone have any suggestions which saw I should use? (I'm leaning toward the table saw, and reattaching the cutouts back)

Goals - making a functional/presentational box for my mom, and while at it - practicing dovetails, and box making. drawer fitting, drawer lining, and everything else that will comes along with it.

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Carcass Design (which saw to use to cut the box?)

My mom is doing some amazing bead work. one time when I went with her to the beads store, I saw a small box/cabinet that the store used to store (no pun intended) the beads in, and thought it would make for a great way for my my to have all her beads organized - and I can make it.

After completing my handtool box (at least the general construction of if) it made me think that I can scale it down and use the same 'general design idea' for the beads box. plus some additions that will fit the situation.

As opposed to using box-joints (that I used for the handtools cabinet) I will be using dovetails on this one to give it a more presentational look, and I will also introduce a (maybe hidden) drawer on the lower part of this box.

Question: since I will not cut through all the way to separate the doors from the base of the box - it makes more sense to me to use a bandsaw for that cut -and "cut around" the door opening parts (leaving the lower drawer parts still attached to the main box) but since the box is quite large (12×10x10) it might be impossible to keep those cuts straight and perpendicular to the other parts… in which case a table saw would be a more precise way to go about -but that means I'll have to completely separate the front of the box and then reattach the front pieces that are NOT part of the doors back to the main box - does anyone have any suggestions which saw I should use? (I'm leaning toward the table saw, and reattaching the cutouts back)

Goals - making a functional/presentational box for my mom, and while at it - practicing dovetails, and box making. drawer fitting, drawer lining, and everything else that will comes along with it.

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Carcass Design (which saw to use to cut the box?)

My mom is doing some amazing bead work. one time when I went with her to the beads store, I saw a small box/cabinet that the store used to store (no pun intended) the beads in, and thought it would make for a great way for my my to have all her beads organized - and I can make it.

After completing my handtool box (at least the general construction of if) it made me think that I can scale it down and use the same 'general design idea' for the beads box. plus some additions that will fit the situation.

As opposed to using box-joints (that I used for the handtools cabinet) I will be using dovetails on this one to give it a more presentational look, and I will also introduce a (maybe hidden) drawer on the lower part of this box.

Question: since I will not cut through all the way to separate the doors from the base of the box - it makes more sense to me to use a bandsaw for that cut -and "cut around" the door opening parts (leaving the lower drawer parts still attached to the main box) but since the box is quite large (12×10x10) it might be impossible to keep those cuts straight and perpendicular to the other parts… in which case a table saw would be a more precise way to go about -but that means I'll have to completely separate the front of the box and then reattach the front pieces that are NOT part of the doors back to the main box - does anyone have any suggestions which saw I should use? (I'm leaning toward the table saw, and reattaching the cutouts back)

Goals - making a functional/presentational box for my mom, and while at it - practicing dovetails, and box making. drawer fitting, drawer lining, and everything else that will comes along with it.

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Laminated Sides are Cut

So I'm very excited about this project as this is the first project that I'm using hardwoods on (everything prior was mainly plywood based except for face frames and other accents).

So this weekend I had the chance to start working on this project, and start using my short-lumber-supply. I had my eye set on a piece of (what I thought was a) cherry that was just right in dimensions for the sides of this box. it was about 16" tall (to accommodate for the 12" tall box), 11" wide (for the 10" wide box) and 1-3/8" thick (which should do for 2×1/2" thick sides). I wanted to give this box a more unique look to it by laminating a contrasting wood in the middle of it - my original idea was to laminate 2×1/8" thick contrasting color lumber, and in between have the main lumber maybe 1" wide - like racing stripes. I got a bit lazy, and decided to just go with a 3/4" thick contrasting lumber in the middle (also this is my first lamination and I didn't want to introduce too many factors of failures - 1 would do for now).

I started by cutting the cherry slab in half and planing 1 face of each piece , and jointing one edge. At this point I had exposed finished grain, and wasn't sure it is cherry anymore - maybe it's mahogany? those are the only 2 red colored hardwoods I have… and my lack of experience with either keeps me guessing.

I hand jointed the edges, and got a 3/4" strip of maple, stuck it in between the 2 slabs, glued, and clamped.

24 hours later, I decided it's time to load up my WoodSlicer blade in my saw for the first time. up until now I was using the factory blade that came with my bandsaw, it cut through the wood - but left a terrible edge (like ripples/lines) that I couldn't get over by adding tension on the blade (now I know it's the blade that was lousy) I was a bit concerned that it has to do with my setup, so I loaded the Woodslicer blade, realigned all the blade guides, and ran a scrap piece of lumber through the blade - much better looking then the old blade… I decided it's time for the 'real thing'

took my laminated wood, and said 'it's-now-or-never', marked a (slightly thicker then) 1/2" line on the top , setup my fence on the saw, and carefully fed the wood through the blade making sure to stay as close to the line (and thicker) as possible. I did notice that feeding faster would make the blade stray into the cut line, while slowing it down wood keep it straight. to my surprise - the 12" piece went through the blade like butter - this was phenomenal - I'm so glad I chose this bandsaw over another - definitely was worth the wait and considerations. The Bandsaw is the Rikon 14" Deluxe.

this is the end result: fresh out of the bandsaw, the cut is smooth and clean - just needs some very light smooth planing action. looking at the grain patterns and pores, it made me think this might be mahogany, but looking at the picture and the pinkness of the lumber, maybe it IS cherry after all… any thoughts?

I was even able to hand shape and finally get a handle to my old (given to me by my father in law) chisel blade out of the cutoff piece of cherry/mahogany(?!?) lumber:

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Laminated Sides are Cut

So I'm very excited about this project as this is the first project that I'm using hardwoods on (everything prior was mainly plywood based except for face frames and other accents).

So this weekend I had the chance to start working on this project, and start using my short-lumber-supply. I had my eye set on a piece of (what I thought was a) cherry that was just right in dimensions for the sides of this box. it was about 16" tall (to accommodate for the 12" tall box), 11" wide (for the 10" wide box) and 1-3/8" thick (which should do for 2×1/2" thick sides). I wanted to give this box a more unique look to it by laminating a contrasting wood in the middle of it - my original idea was to laminate 2×1/8" thick contrasting color lumber, and in between have the main lumber maybe 1" wide - like racing stripes. I got a bit lazy, and decided to just go with a 3/4" thick contrasting lumber in the middle (also this is my first lamination and I didn't want to introduce too many factors of failures - 1 would do for now).

I started by cutting the cherry slab in half and planing 1 face of each piece , and jointing one edge. At this point I had exposed finished grain, and wasn't sure it is cherry anymore - maybe it's mahogany? those are the only 2 red colored hardwoods I have… and my lack of experience with either keeps me guessing.

I hand jointed the edges, and got a 3/4" strip of maple, stuck it in between the 2 slabs, glued, and clamped.

24 hours later, I decided it's time to load up my WoodSlicer blade in my saw for the first time. up until now I was using the factory blade that came with my bandsaw, it cut through the wood - but left a terrible edge (like ripples/lines) that I couldn't get over by adding tension on the blade (now I know it's the blade that was lousy) I was a bit concerned that it has to do with my setup, so I loaded the Woodslicer blade, realigned all the blade guides, and ran a scrap piece of lumber through the blade - much better looking then the old blade… I decided it's time for the 'real thing'

took my laminated wood, and said 'it's-now-or-never', marked a (slightly thicker then) 1/2" line on the top , setup my fence on the saw, and carefully fed the wood through the blade making sure to stay as close to the line (and thicker) as possible. I did notice that feeding faster would make the blade stray into the cut line, while slowing it down wood keep it straight. to my surprise - the 12" piece went through the blade like butter - this was phenomenal - I'm so glad I chose this bandsaw over another - definitely was worth the wait and considerations. The Bandsaw is the Rikon 14" Deluxe.

this is the end result: fresh out of the bandsaw, the cut is smooth and clean - just needs some very light smooth planing action. looking at the grain patterns and pores, it made me think this might be mahogany, but looking at the picture and the pinkness of the lumber, maybe it IS cherry after all… any thoughts?

I was even able to hand shape and finally get a handle to my old (given to me by my father in law) chisel blade out of the cutoff piece of cherry/mahogany(?!?) lumber:

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Laminated Sides are Cut

So I'm very excited about this project as this is the first project that I'm using hardwoods on (everything prior was mainly plywood based except for face frames and other accents).

So this weekend I had the chance to start working on this project, and start using my short-lumber-supply. I had my eye set on a piece of (what I thought was a) cherry that was just right in dimensions for the sides of this box. it was about 16" tall (to accommodate for the 12" tall box), 11" wide (for the 10" wide box) and 1-3/8" thick (which should do for 2×1/2" thick sides). I wanted to give this box a more unique look to it by laminating a contrasting wood in the middle of it - my original idea was to laminate 2×1/8" thick contrasting color lumber, and in between have the main lumber maybe 1" wide - like racing stripes. I got a bit lazy, and decided to just go with a 3/4" thick contrasting lumber in the middle (also this is my first lamination and I didn't want to introduce too many factors of failures - 1 would do for now).

I started by cutting the cherry slab in half and planing 1 face of each piece , and jointing one edge. At this point I had exposed finished grain, and wasn't sure it is cherry anymore - maybe it's mahogany? those are the only 2 red colored hardwoods I have… and my lack of experience with either keeps me guessing.

I hand jointed the edges, and got a 3/4" strip of maple, stuck it in between the 2 slabs, glued, and clamped.

24 hours later, I decided it's time to load up my WoodSlicer blade in my saw for the first time. up until now I was using the factory blade that came with my bandsaw, it cut through the wood - but left a terrible edge (like ripples/lines) that I couldn't get over by adding tension on the blade (now I know it's the blade that was lousy) I was a bit concerned that it has to do with my setup, so I loaded the Woodslicer blade, realigned all the blade guides, and ran a scrap piece of lumber through the blade - much better looking then the old blade… I decided it's time for the 'real thing'

took my laminated wood, and said 'it's-now-or-never', marked a (slightly thicker then) 1/2" line on the top , setup my fence on the saw, and carefully fed the wood through the blade making sure to stay as close to the line (and thicker) as possible. I did notice that feeding faster would make the blade stray into the cut line, while slowing it down wood keep it straight. to my surprise - the 12" piece went through the blade like butter - this was phenomenal - I'm so glad I chose this bandsaw over another - definitely was worth the wait and considerations. The Bandsaw is the Rikon 14" Deluxe.

this is the end result: fresh out of the bandsaw, the cut is smooth and clean - just needs some very light smooth planing action. looking at the grain patterns and pores, it made me think this might be mahogany, but looking at the picture and the pinkness of the lumber, maybe it IS cherry after all… any thoughts?

I was even able to hand shape and finally get a handle to my old (given to me by my father in law) chisel blade out of the cutoff piece of cherry/mahogany(?!?) lumber:

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Laminated Sides are Cut

So I'm very excited about this project as this is the first project that I'm using hardwoods on (everything prior was mainly plywood based except for face frames and other accents).

So this weekend I had the chance to start working on this project, and start using my short-lumber-supply. I had my eye set on a piece of (what I thought was a) cherry that was just right in dimensions for the sides of this box. it was about 16" tall (to accommodate for the 12" tall box), 11" wide (for the 10" wide box) and 1-3/8" thick (which should do for 2×1/2" thick sides). I wanted to give this box a more unique look to it by laminating a contrasting wood in the middle of it - my original idea was to laminate 2×1/8" thick contrasting color lumber, and in between have the main lumber maybe 1" wide - like racing stripes. I got a bit lazy, and decided to just go with a 3/4" thick contrasting lumber in the middle (also this is my first lamination and I didn't want to introduce too many factors of failures - 1 would do for now).

I started by cutting the cherry slab in half and planing 1 face of each piece , and jointing one edge. At this point I had exposed finished grain, and wasn't sure it is cherry anymore - maybe it's mahogany? those are the only 2 red colored hardwoods I have… and my lack of experience with either keeps me guessing.

I hand jointed the edges, and got a 3/4" strip of maple, stuck it in between the 2 slabs, glued, and clamped.

24 hours later, I decided it's time to load up my WoodSlicer blade in my saw for the first time. up until now I was using the factory blade that came with my bandsaw, it cut through the wood - but left a terrible edge (like ripples/lines) that I couldn't get over by adding tension on the blade (now I know it's the blade that was lousy) I was a bit concerned that it has to do with my setup, so I loaded the Woodslicer blade, realigned all the blade guides, and ran a scrap piece of lumber through the blade - much better looking then the old blade… I decided it's time for the 'real thing'

took my laminated wood, and said 'it's-now-or-never', marked a (slightly thicker then) 1/2" line on the top , setup my fence on the saw, and carefully fed the wood through the blade making sure to stay as close to the line (and thicker) as possible. I did notice that feeding faster would make the blade stray into the cut line, while slowing it down wood keep it straight. to my surprise - the 12" piece went through the blade like butter - this was phenomenal - I'm so glad I chose this bandsaw over another - definitely was worth the wait and considerations. The Bandsaw is the Rikon 14" Deluxe.

this is the end result: fresh out of the bandsaw, the cut is smooth and clean - just needs some very light smooth planing action. looking at the grain patterns and pores, it made me think this might be mahogany, but looking at the picture and the pinkness of the lumber, maybe it IS cherry after all… any thoughts?

I was even able to hand shape and finally get a handle to my old (given to me by my father in law) chisel blade out of the cutoff piece of cherry/mahogany(?!?) lumber:

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Handcut Dovetail Carcass

Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…

I still dont have my router table, so using the incra fence wouldn't be possible to get the dovetails done. I read "The Bandsaw Book", and it had a really nice Jig for making dovetails on the bandsaw with handcut look and fit, but with the automation of a machine and jig. I really liked the idea, and figured I'd use that technique.

unfortunately, using that technique requires that your bandsaw table can tilt 10 degrees right AND left, mine as it happens only tilts 5 degrees to the left… one of those things that you never really realize their importance when you are getting your first or a specific tool. I guess I can make a fixture that will create a 10 degree angle between the table/platform and blade, but I just didnt want to focus on jigs, as I was very eager to get more progress on this project. I figured, I'll use the jig to make the tails, but the pins (which require the table to tilt both ways) I'll cut by hand.

Another thing that I had to improvise while using the jig was that the jig calls for material of same specific thickness (all pieces are 1/2" , or 3/4… etc) and since I had hand planed all the parts to thickness, well - they are not exactly perfectly the same as each other, nor they are perfectly thicknessed across the entire part… so I had to make sure that my cuts are following the mating parts thickness (for the tails - not to cut too deep , not too shallow). other than that, the jig did help quicken the making of the tails by automating the cuts at 10 degree angles. I then proceeded to chisel the waste, and clean out the tails.

after I had the tails, I transferred the lines to the mating parts, and handcut the pins with a Japanese pull saw, and cleaned the waste with my chisels.

could look better, but for a first time, I'm extremely happy with the results. each tail and pin that I worked on I felt more and more confident with it…I can see how only more experience will help me finesse this joinery.

So I have the carcass ready. next step will be cutting some dadoes in the carcass parts (not yet glued) for the drawer divider, and drawers slides:

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Handcut Dovetail Carcass

Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…

I still dont have my router table, so using the incra fence wouldn't be possible to get the dovetails done. I read "The Bandsaw Book", and it had a really nice Jig for making dovetails on the bandsaw with handcut look and fit, but with the automation of a machine and jig. I really liked the idea, and figured I'd use that technique.

unfortunately, using that technique requires that your bandsaw table can tilt 10 degrees right AND left, mine as it happens only tilts 5 degrees to the left… one of those things that you never really realize their importance when you are getting your first or a specific tool. I guess I can make a fixture that will create a 10 degree angle between the table/platform and blade, but I just didnt want to focus on jigs, as I was very eager to get more progress on this project. I figured, I'll use the jig to make the tails, but the pins (which require the table to tilt both ways) I'll cut by hand.

Another thing that I had to improvise while using the jig was that the jig calls for material of same specific thickness (all pieces are 1/2" , or 3/4… etc) and since I had hand planed all the parts to thickness, well - they are not exactly perfectly the same as each other, nor they are perfectly thicknessed across the entire part… so I had to make sure that my cuts are following the mating parts thickness (for the tails - not to cut too deep , not too shallow). other than that, the jig did help quicken the making of the tails by automating the cuts at 10 degree angles. I then proceeded to chisel the waste, and clean out the tails.

after I had the tails, I transferred the lines to the mating parts, and handcut the pins with a Japanese pull saw, and cleaned the waste with my chisels.

could look better, but for a first time, I'm extremely happy with the results. each tail and pin that I worked on I felt more and more confident with it…I can see how only more experience will help me finesse this joinery.

So I have the carcass ready. next step will be cutting some dadoes in the carcass parts (not yet glued) for the drawer divider, and drawers slides:

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Handcut Dovetail Carcass

Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…

I still dont have my router table, so using the incra fence wouldn't be possible to get the dovetails done. I read "The Bandsaw Book", and it had a really nice Jig for making dovetails on the bandsaw with handcut look and fit, but with the automation of a machine and jig. I really liked the idea, and figured I'd use that technique.

unfortunately, using that technique requires that your bandsaw table can tilt 10 degrees right AND left, mine as it happens only tilts 5 degrees to the left… one of those things that you never really realize their importance when you are getting your first or a specific tool. I guess I can make a fixture that will create a 10 degree angle between the table/platform and blade, but I just didnt want to focus on jigs, as I was very eager to get more progress on this project. I figured, I'll use the jig to make the tails, but the pins (which require the table to tilt both ways) I'll cut by hand.

Another thing that I had to improvise while using the jig was that the jig calls for material of same specific thickness (all pieces are 1/2" , or 3/4… etc) and since I had hand planed all the parts to thickness, well - they are not exactly perfectly the same as each other, nor they are perfectly thicknessed across the entire part… so I had to make sure that my cuts are following the mating parts thickness (for the tails - not to cut too deep , not too shallow). other than that, the jig did help quicken the making of the tails by automating the cuts at 10 degree angles. I then proceeded to chisel the waste, and clean out the tails.

after I had the tails, I transferred the lines to the mating parts, and handcut the pins with a Japanese pull saw, and cleaned the waste with my chisels.

could look better, but for a first time, I'm extremely happy with the results. each tail and pin that I worked on I felt more and more confident with it…I can see how only more experience will help me finesse this joinery.

So I have the carcass ready. next step will be cutting some dadoes in the carcass parts (not yet glued) for the drawer divider, and drawers slides:

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Handcut Dovetail Carcass

Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…

I still dont have my router table, so using the incra fence wouldn't be possible to get the dovetails done. I read "The Bandsaw Book", and it had a really nice Jig for making dovetails on the bandsaw with handcut look and fit, but with the automation of a machine and jig. I really liked the idea, and figured I'd use that technique.

unfortunately, using that technique requires that your bandsaw table can tilt 10 degrees right AND left, mine as it happens only tilts 5 degrees to the left… one of those things that you never really realize their importance when you are getting your first or a specific tool. I guess I can make a fixture that will create a 10 degree angle between the table/platform and blade, but I just didnt want to focus on jigs, as I was very eager to get more progress on this project. I figured, I'll use the jig to make the tails, but the pins (which require the table to tilt both ways) I'll cut by hand.

Another thing that I had to improvise while using the jig was that the jig calls for material of same specific thickness (all pieces are 1/2" , or 3/4… etc) and since I had hand planed all the parts to thickness, well - they are not exactly perfectly the same as each other, nor they are perfectly thicknessed across the entire part… so I had to make sure that my cuts are following the mating parts thickness (for the tails - not to cut too deep , not too shallow). other than that, the jig did help quicken the making of the tails by automating the cuts at 10 degree angles. I then proceeded to chisel the waste, and clean out the tails.

after I had the tails, I transferred the lines to the mating parts, and handcut the pins with a Japanese pull saw, and cleaned the waste with my chisels.

could look better, but for a first time, I'm extremely happy with the results. each tail and pin that I worked on I felt more and more confident with it…I can see how only more experience will help me finesse this joinery.

So I have the carcass ready. next step will be cutting some dadoes in the carcass parts (not yet glued) for the drawer divider, and drawers slides:

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Handcut Dovetail Carcass

Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…

I still dont have my router table, so using the incra fence wouldn't be possible to get the dovetails done. I read "The Bandsaw Book", and it had a really nice Jig for making dovetails on the bandsaw with handcut look and fit, but with the automation of a machine and jig. I really liked the idea, and figured I'd use that technique.

unfortunately, using that technique requires that your bandsaw table can tilt 10 degrees right AND left, mine as it happens only tilts 5 degrees to the left… one of those things that you never really realize their importance when you are getting your first or a specific tool. I guess I can make a fixture that will create a 10 degree angle between the table/platform and blade, but I just didnt want to focus on jigs, as I was very eager to get more progress on this project. I figured, I'll use the jig to make the tails, but the pins (which require the table to tilt both ways) I'll cut by hand.

Another thing that I had to improvise while using the jig was that the jig calls for material of same specific thickness (all pieces are 1/2" , or 3/4… etc) and since I had hand planed all the parts to thickness, well - they are not exactly perfectly the same as each other, nor they are perfectly thicknessed across the entire part… so I had to make sure that my cuts are following the mating parts thickness (for the tails - not to cut too deep , not too shallow). other than that, the jig did help quicken the making of the tails by automating the cuts at 10 degree angles. I then proceeded to chisel the waste, and clean out the tails.

after I had the tails, I transferred the lines to the mating parts, and handcut the pins with a Japanese pull saw, and cleaned the waste with my chisels.

could look better, but for a first time, I'm extremely happy with the results. each tail and pin that I worked on I felt more and more confident with it…I can see how only more experience will help me finesse this joinery.

So I have the carcass ready. next step will be cutting some dadoes in the carcass parts (not yet glued) for the drawer divider, and drawers slides:

Click to expand...

PurpLev said:

Handcut Dovetail Carcass

Finally after getting the table saw and tuning it, I'm able to get back on track with woodworking projects…

I still dont have my router table, so using the incra fence wouldn't be possible to get the dovetails done. I read "The Bandsaw Book", and it had a really nice Jig for making dovetails on the bandsaw with handcut look and fit, but with the automation of a machine and jig. I really liked the idea, and figured I'd use that technique.

unfortunately, using that technique requires that your bandsaw table can tilt 10 degrees right AND left, mine as it happens only tilts 5 degrees to the left… one of those things that you never really realize their importance when you are getting your first or a specific tool. I guess I can make a fixture that will create a 10 degree angle between the table/platform and blade, but I just didnt want to focus on jigs, as I was very eager to get more progress on this project. I figured, I'll use the jig to make the tails, but the pins (which require the table to tilt both ways) I'll cut by hand.

Another thing that I had to improvise while using the jig was that the jig calls for material of same specific thickness (all pieces are 1/2" , or 3/4… etc) and since I had hand planed all the parts to thickness, well - they are not exactly perfectly the same as each other, nor they are perfectly thicknessed across the entire part… so I had to make sure that my cuts are following the mating parts thickness (for the tails - not to cut too deep , not too shallow). other than that, the jig did help quicken the making of the tails by automating the cuts at 10 degree angles. I then proceeded to chisel the waste, and clean out the tails.

after I had the tails, I transferred the lines to the mating parts, and handcut the pins with a Japanese pull saw, and cleaned the waste with my chisels.

could look better, but for a first time, I'm extremely happy with the results. each tail and pin that I worked on I felt more and more confident with it…I can see how only more experience will help me finesse this joinery.

So I have the carcass ready. next step will be cutting some dadoes in the carcass parts (not yet glued) for the drawer divider, and drawers slides:

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