[spunwood]

Introduction

At the beginning of August, with the discovery of mold in my kitchen, I began building new countertops.

The wood for this work all came from my inlaws barnwood.

After getting the countertops glued up, I was interupted by life (teaching, UPS, kids, divorce, and more).

Where I left off, I had just gotten the sections back from a local cabinetshop where it was run through a drum sander…..

Well, FOUR MONTHS LATER, what a thrill to get back into the shop three days ago. I am trying to use this time off from teaching and the shorter days at UPS to get some work done.

I am going to document my work and would love your feedback.

If you would like to see the beginnings of this project:

Design & Milling
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/29230

More pics on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.257366100954927.70591.233428150015389&type=1

Some of the Glue Ups
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/29598

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.260330853991785.71111.233428150015389&type=1

 

[learnin2do]

Introduction

At the beginning of August, with the discovery of mold in my kitchen, I began building new countertops.

The wood for this work all came from my inlaws barnwood.

After getting the countertops glued up, I was interupted by life (teaching, UPS, kids, divorce, and more).

Where I left off, I had just gotten the sections back from a local cabinetshop where it was run through a drum sander…..

Well, FOUR MONTHS LATER, what a thrill to get back into the shop three days ago. I am trying to use this time off from teaching and the shorter days at UPS to get some work done.

I am going to document my work and would love your feedback.

If you would like to see the beginnings of this project:

Design & Milling
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/29230

More pics on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.257366100954927.70591.233428150015389&type=1

Some of the Glue Ups
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/29598

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.260330853991785.71111.233428150015389&type=1

i thought you had finished the countertops, and had a matching shelf…?

 

[spunwood]

Introduction

At the beginning of August, with the discovery of mold in my kitchen, I began building new countertops.

The wood for this work all came from my inlaws barnwood.

After getting the countertops glued up, I was interupted by life (teaching, UPS, kids, divorce, and more).

Where I left off, I had just gotten the sections back from a local cabinetshop where it was run through a drum sander…..

Well, FOUR MONTHS LATER, what a thrill to get back into the shop three days ago. I am trying to use this time off from teaching and the shorter days at UPS to get some work done.

I am going to document my work and would love your feedback.

If you would like to see the beginnings of this project:

Design & Milling
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/29230

More pics on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.257366100954927.70591.233428150015389&type=1

Some of the Glue Ups
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/29598

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.260330853991785.71111.233428150015389&type=1

That is so funny! I only had the shelf…now I am trying to finish the countertops that will match it

 

[spunwood]

Breadboards: Resources

I decided a while back to add breadboard ends to each of the four sections. These will add beauty and stability to the countertops.

What will follow in my blog is almost nothing original. It is mainly just a walk along. Here are my main resources which I highly reccomend.

Having never done this before, I got some great information from:

-our own GaryL
http://lumberjocks.com/Maggiepic

-an excellent how to video on making the breadboard ends from Popular Woodworking
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/video/video_breadboard_ends

-A basic explanation from Fine Woodworking
http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesAllAbout.aspx?id=2978

-A good how to article which complements to popular wood working video. This article from Fine Woodworking goes into how to attach the ends.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2334

-Fine Woodworking Video on Drawboring
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/36327/how-to-make-a-drawbored-mortise-and-tenon-joint

 

[mafe]

Breadboards: Resources

I decided a while back to add breadboard ends to each of the four sections. These will add beauty and stability to the countertops.

What will follow in my blog is almost nothing original. It is mainly just a walk along. Here are my main resources which I highly reccomend.

Having never done this before, I got some great information from:

-our own GaryL
http://lumberjocks.com/Maggiepic

-an excellent how to video on making the breadboard ends from Popular Woodworking
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/video/video_breadboard_ends

-A basic explanation from Fine Woodworking
http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesAllAbout.aspx?id=2978

-A good how to article which complements to popular wood working video. This article from Fine Woodworking goes into how to attach the ends.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2334

-Fine Woodworking Video on Drawboring
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/36327/how-to-make-a-drawbored-mortise-and-tenon-joint

Thank you for the fine links.
Best thoughts,
Mads

 

[spunwood]

Dimensions & The Tongue

DIMENSIONS

Okay, so how big should the battons (breadboards) be?
How big should the tongue, the tenons….?

Well, I am not sure if there is a hard and fast rule. I went with a mixture of necessity, imitation, and inspiration:

1. I calculated the length of each coutertop section which I wanted to end up with, including space at the wall for movement.

2. I calculated how much each breadboard (-loss of tenons) would add to what I already had.

3. Then I made a decision on the ratio of tongue to tenons; on tenon to the outer edge of the breadboard; on room for play, such as glue, fit, seasonal movement.

4. I am not going to post exact dimensions

5. I ended up with a tongue that was approximately 3/8"; tenons that were 2.5" wide x 1" more than the tongue

The Tongue

Mind you, I already milled the breadboard ends to size, including a few extra ones, and two that are extra long to make up for needed space.

I was not ready to make the tongue on the countertop sections.

Why the tongue 1st? So that I can use it to fit the groove in the breadboards.

The method I used came straight from a Popular Woodworking video which I posted on the previous blog entry.

I will use the pictures to walk us through:

1. The first thing I did was to make a number of test cuts:

-to check the depth of cut on 3/4" mlcs the pattern bit
(which should be 1/3 the counter, or 1/2 the waste I need to remove)

-to test the spacer block I am going to use to set my guide block for the router to ride against

-to test my router offset (how far my bit is from the edge of the face plate)

2. After these test cuts, I set up my guide with the appropriatly sized spacer:

Clamping:
The inner clamps hold the spacer and gently snug the guide block to the appropiate position.

after removing the middle 3 clamps, leaving just the guide or fence:

Spacer/Guide

3.I prepare for the first pass on the top part of the tongue

-I discover that the round part of my base plate gives me enough offset to use as a guide for the 1st pass

Round Edge

Round Against Fence

-I am careful to use the baseplate and router handles to keep the baseplate flat on the countertop, rather than tilting foward

First Pass

-on each pass I am careful to slow down at the exit area to prevent blow out.

4. I do the second pass with the square edge of my base plate (this might only work for my router which just happened to have the right offset).

Square edge used in second pass and pressed firmly against guide

Second Pass

you can compare this to the first pass again

5. One side is now done

6. I flip the countertop and do the second side

Both Sides

All done! 7 more to go.

 

[learnin2do]

Dimensions & The Tongue

DIMENSIONS

Okay, so how big should the battons (breadboards) be?
How big should the tongue, the tenons….?

Well, I am not sure if there is a hard and fast rule. I went with a mixture of necessity, imitation, and inspiration:

1. I calculated the length of each coutertop section which I wanted to end up with, including space at the wall for movement.

2. I calculated how much each breadboard (-loss of tenons) would add to what I already had.

3. Then I made a decision on the ratio of tongue to tenons; on tenon to the outer edge of the breadboard; on room for play, such as glue, fit, seasonal movement.

4. I am not going to post exact dimensions

5. I ended up with a tongue that was approximately 3/8"; tenons that were 2.5" wide x 1" more than the tongue

The Tongue

Mind you, I already milled the breadboard ends to size, including a few extra ones, and two that are extra long to make up for needed space.

I was not ready to make the tongue on the countertop sections.

Why the tongue 1st? So that I can use it to fit the groove in the breadboards.

The method I used came straight from a Popular Woodworking video which I posted on the previous blog entry.

I will use the pictures to walk us through:

1. The first thing I did was to make a number of test cuts:

-to check the depth of cut on 3/4" mlcs the pattern bit
(which should be 1/3 the counter, or 1/2 the waste I need to remove)

-to test the spacer block I am going to use to set my guide block for the router to ride against

-to test my router offset (how far my bit is from the edge of the face plate)

2. After these test cuts, I set up my guide with the appropriatly sized spacer:

Clamping:
The inner clamps hold the spacer and gently snug the guide block to the appropiate position.

after removing the middle 3 clamps, leaving just the guide or fence:

Spacer/Guide

3.I prepare for the first pass on the top part of the tongue

-I discover that the round part of my base plate gives me enough offset to use as a guide for the 1st pass

Round Edge

Round Against Fence

-I am careful to use the baseplate and router handles to keep the baseplate flat on the countertop, rather than tilting foward

First Pass

-on each pass I am careful to slow down at the exit area to prevent blow out.

4. I do the second pass with the square edge of my base plate (this might only work for my router which just happened to have the right offset).

Square edge used in second pass and pressed firmly against guide

Second Pass

you can compare this to the first pass again

5. One side is now done

6. I flip the countertop and do the second side

Both Sides

All done! 7 more to go.

I thought i was so-o-o careful doing this on the casket i made, even using a depth gauge thingy with 24ths on it! yet i still took too much off creating the tenons and had to shorten the the entire project by 1/2 an inch!!

 

[spunwood]

Still Breadboarding: The Main Groove

This was a pretty straightfoward part of the job. The only trick was getting a snug fit and centering the groove perfectly.

You see, I had foolishly milled the breadboard ends to exact thickness, rather than oversizing them a hair. This meant I had to be spot on!

How could I perfectly center the groove?

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18

Show Content

The trick turned out to be to get close.

Rather than aim for perfection, I got as close as possible. Then with each pass on the table saw, I ran each piece through twice (once on one side, and once on the other). Flipping the side of the piece which was against the fence made up for any imperfections. Than I simple moved the fence one way or the other slowly until I had the fit I wanted!

I also found some termite work in one piece.

 

[learnin2do]

Still Breadboarding: The Main Groove

This was a pretty straightfoward part of the job. The only trick was getting a snug fit and centering the groove perfectly.

You see, I had foolishly milled the breadboard ends to exact thickness, rather than oversizing them a hair. This meant I had to be spot on!

How could I perfectly center the groove?

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18

Show Content

The trick turned out to be to get close.

Rather than aim for perfection, I got as close as possible. Then with each pass on the table saw, I ran each piece through twice (once on one side, and once on the other). Flipping the side of the piece which was against the fence made up for any imperfections. Than I simple moved the fence one way or the other slowly until I had the fit I wanted!

I also found some termite work in one piece.

i was invaded by borer bees over the holiday! -post-carpal tunnel-op, at the scrollsaw with only my left hand…the space heater warmed them a bit beyond hibernation…fortunately, they fell into the scrap bucket (save for the poor fellow whose unfortunate meeting with the saw blade called my attention to the situation). i quickly used my left hand to drag out his cohabitants in the scrap bin and located a viable section of cypress elsewhere!

 

[spunwood]

Still Breadboarding: The Main Groove

This was a pretty straightfoward part of the job. The only trick was getting a snug fit and centering the groove perfectly.

You see, I had foolishly milled the breadboard ends to exact thickness, rather than oversizing them a hair. This meant I had to be spot on!

How could I perfectly center the groove?

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18

Show Content

The trick turned out to be to get close.

Rather than aim for perfection, I got as close as possible. Then with each pass on the table saw, I ran each piece through twice (once on one side, and once on the other). Flipping the side of the piece which was against the fence made up for any imperfections. Than I simple moved the fence one way or the other slowly until I had the fit I wanted!

I also found some termite work in one piece.

ewww. These might have been borer bees. But I can't really tell…they didn't say anything funny.

 

[learnin2do]

Still Breadboarding: The Main Groove

This was a pretty straightfoward part of the job. The only trick was getting a snug fit and centering the groove perfectly.

You see, I had foolishly milled the breadboard ends to exact thickness, rather than oversizing them a hair. This meant I had to be spot on!

How could I perfectly center the groove?

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18

Show Content

The trick turned out to be to get close.

Rather than aim for perfection, I got as close as possible. Then with each pass on the table saw, I ran each piece through twice (once on one side, and once on the other). Flipping the side of the piece which was against the fence made up for any imperfections. Than I simple moved the fence one way or the other slowly until I had the fit I wanted!

I also found some termite work in one piece.

ha ha ha!!

 

[spunwood]

Laying out the Mortises & Tenons

I love using story sticks, keeps the human error out (as much as possible).

The black walnut was used to mark off the tenons and mortises. It was trimmed at each consective point of layout. You can see

my layout plan,

the story stick at work

a shorter story stick for the next layout

the story stick on the breadboard

the layout on the bread board

The layout on a panel

 

[chrisstef]

Laying out the Mortises & Tenons

I love using story sticks, keeps the human error out (as much as possible).

The black walnut was used to mark off the tenons and mortises. It was trimmed at each consective point of layout. You can see

my layout plan,

the story stick at work

a shorter story stick for the next layout

the story stick on the breadboard

the layout on the bread board

The layout on a panel

Looks like a nice simple way not to screw things up … good looking barn boards too.

 

[spunwood]

Cutting the Tenons & Repairing a Break

I cut the tenons in two parts, as suggested by the popular woodworking video.

A. I cut down the lines. I used my dovetail saw, but I am sure there are many ways to do this, say, even with a tenon saw.

B. I inserted a pattern bit into my router. I cut and planed down a piece which was the exact width of the tongue. This piece was also just slightly thinner than the depth of the shoulder of the tongue.

These dimensions are important for two reasons.
1. Getting the tongue right means the breadboard will fit snuggly
2. Getting the height of the guide piece right means that when I run my router accross the countertop, it will not push the guide around.

I achieved the correct height of the guide by touch testing.
I achieved the correct width by testing for a perfect fit in the grooves of the breadboards (again avoiding #'s)

You can see that I also used a 2nd one of these guides to help me stop my cutting with the handsaw!

I will not go into great detail because the popular woodworking video does such a great job. I am really just following it. But to put it simply.

The base plate sits on the countertop while the bushing of the pattern bit rides against the guide to give a proper depth to the tenon.

The only part i did not show was using the chisel to trim the rounded ends on each tenon.

Also, one of the countertop panels fell off the work bench and split in half, though not along a glue line!

Thank God I could just glue it up.

 

[learnin2do]

Cutting the Tenons & Repairing a Break

I cut the tenons in two parts, as suggested by the popular woodworking video.

A. I cut down the lines. I used my dovetail saw, but I am sure there are many ways to do this, say, even with a tenon saw.

B. I inserted a pattern bit into my router. I cut and planed down a piece which was the exact width of the tongue. This piece was also just slightly thinner than the depth of the shoulder of the tongue.

These dimensions are important for two reasons.
1. Getting the tongue right means the breadboard will fit snuggly
2. Getting the height of the guide piece right means that when I run my router accross the countertop, it will not push the guide around.

I achieved the correct height of the guide by touch testing.
I achieved the correct width by testing for a perfect fit in the grooves of the breadboards (again avoiding #'s)

You can see that I also used a 2nd one of these guides to help me stop my cutting with the handsaw!

I will not go into great detail because the popular woodworking video does such a great job. I am really just following it. But to put it simply.

The base plate sits on the countertop while the bushing of the pattern bit rides against the guide to give a proper depth to the tenon.

The only part i did not show was using the chisel to trim the rounded ends on each tenon.

Also, one of the countertop panels fell off the work bench and split in half, though not along a glue line!

Thank God I could just glue it up.

Okay, i need to get on the real computer & check this out. i have been tring to practice my joinery, so i can get better at making the caskets sturdy. i am glad you posted this, because i am always trying to brainstorm ways to make the joints as quickly and easily and precisely as possible with the tools i have.
This looks like a great blog. thank you for putting the time in to post it, so that lazy folks like me don't have to figure out what the right search words are!

 

[spunwood]

Cutting the Tenons & Repairing a Break

I cut the tenons in two parts, as suggested by the popular woodworking video.

A. I cut down the lines. I used my dovetail saw, but I am sure there are many ways to do this, say, even with a tenon saw.

B. I inserted a pattern bit into my router. I cut and planed down a piece which was the exact width of the tongue. This piece was also just slightly thinner than the depth of the shoulder of the tongue.

These dimensions are important for two reasons.
1. Getting the tongue right means the breadboard will fit snuggly
2. Getting the height of the guide piece right means that when I run my router accross the countertop, it will not push the guide around.

I achieved the correct height of the guide by touch testing.
I achieved the correct width by testing for a perfect fit in the grooves of the breadboards (again avoiding #'s)

You can see that I also used a 2nd one of these guides to help me stop my cutting with the handsaw!

I will not go into great detail because the popular woodworking video does such a great job. I am really just following it. But to put it simply.

The base plate sits on the countertop while the bushing of the pattern bit rides against the guide to give a proper depth to the tenon.

The only part i did not show was using the chisel to trim the rounded ends on each tenon.

Also, one of the countertop panels fell off the work bench and split in half, though not along a glue line!

Thank God I could just glue it up.

No problem. I have to say, this has been pretty intimidating, but so far I am satisfied…I am not sure I would call this quick though…

A spline & two grooves might be much quicker if using a router to cut the grooves.

 

[489tad]

Cutting the Tenons & Repairing a Break

I cut the tenons in two parts, as suggested by the popular woodworking video.

A. I cut down the lines. I used my dovetail saw, but I am sure there are many ways to do this, say, even with a tenon saw.

B. I inserted a pattern bit into my router. I cut and planed down a piece which was the exact width of the tongue. This piece was also just slightly thinner than the depth of the shoulder of the tongue.

These dimensions are important for two reasons.
1. Getting the tongue right means the breadboard will fit snuggly
2. Getting the height of the guide piece right means that when I run my router accross the countertop, it will not push the guide around.

I achieved the correct height of the guide by touch testing.
I achieved the correct width by testing for a perfect fit in the grooves of the breadboards (again avoiding #'s)

You can see that I also used a 2nd one of these guides to help me stop my cutting with the handsaw!

I will not go into great detail because the popular woodworking video does such a great job. I am really just following it. But to put it simply.

The base plate sits on the countertop while the bushing of the pattern bit rides against the guide to give a proper depth to the tenon.

The only part i did not show was using the chisel to trim the rounded ends on each tenon.

Also, one of the countertop panels fell off the work bench and split in half, though not along a glue line!

Thank God I could just glue it up.

Its moving along. Take your time and don't rush it. The counter tops will look great when they are done.

 

[spunwood]

Cutting the Tenons & Repairing a Break

I cut the tenons in two parts, as suggested by the popular woodworking video.

A. I cut down the lines. I used my dovetail saw, but I am sure there are many ways to do this, say, even with a tenon saw.

B. I inserted a pattern bit into my router. I cut and planed down a piece which was the exact width of the tongue. This piece was also just slightly thinner than the depth of the shoulder of the tongue.

These dimensions are important for two reasons.
1. Getting the tongue right means the breadboard will fit snuggly
2. Getting the height of the guide piece right means that when I run my router accross the countertop, it will not push the guide around.

I achieved the correct height of the guide by touch testing.
I achieved the correct width by testing for a perfect fit in the grooves of the breadboards (again avoiding #'s)

You can see that I also used a 2nd one of these guides to help me stop my cutting with the handsaw!

I will not go into great detail because the popular woodworking video does such a great job. I am really just following it. But to put it simply.

The base plate sits on the countertop while the bushing of the pattern bit rides against the guide to give a proper depth to the tenon.

The only part i did not show was using the chisel to trim the rounded ends on each tenon.

Also, one of the countertop panels fell off the work bench and split in half, though not along a glue line!

Thank God I could just glue it up.

Thanks Tad, appriciate it man.

 

[spunwood]

Mortises

This was the most time consuming part of the whole business. Though I drilled out the mortises with a forstner bit, they still required a lot of clean up. Perhaps too much slop in the drill press or the tenon was just slightly oversized. Anyway, I chiseled away, made the witdth and depth of the mortises a bit oversized for the purpose of wiggle/expansion room, and glue.

I found that I had to fix the mortises even after these pictures by drilling just a bit deeper.

Marking the mortise depth

The depth line made clear

Setting drill depth

Checking alignment before checking the layout.

Checking Layout

First wholes drilled beyond mortise width…exact fit is not desired or needed.

roughed mortise

Checking the Fit

fit improved

some more

other ones

These pictures don't reflect the best fit because I had yet to drill just a bit deeper!
side view 1

sideview 2

 

[mafe]

Mortises

This was the most time consuming part of the whole business. Though I drilled out the mortises with a forstner bit, they still required a lot of clean up. Perhaps too much slop in the drill press or the tenon was just slightly oversized. Anyway, I chiseled away, made the witdth and depth of the mortises a bit oversized for the purpose of wiggle/expansion room, and glue.

I found that I had to fix the mortises even after these pictures by drilling just a bit deeper.

Marking the mortise depth

The depth line made clear

Setting drill depth

Checking alignment before checking the layout.

Checking Layout

First wholes drilled beyond mortise width…exact fit is not desired or needed.

roughed mortise

Checking the Fit

fit improved

some more

other ones

These pictures don't reflect the best fit because I had yet to drill just a bit deeper!
side view 1

sideview 2

Comming along so fine.
Look forward to see the tops when finished.
Best thoughts,
Mads