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Hi, I got either a bark inclusion or left over bark from the tree and I want to fill it, the other choice would be to turn away another .5" of wood. My question is how to fill it. When I use epoxy in a deep crack or such it disappears and I have to refill it. What am I doing wrong thanks Mike

Brown Wood Tree Art Tints and shades
 

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Plug it first so the epoxy doesn't run through. Tape the back side, stuff it with paper towels, use silky puddy, saw dust, or anything else so you only fill it without loosing the epoxy. I've even screwed a piece to the back side.
 

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Mike, I take wood powder off my ways, rub it into the crack/inclusion, and apply thin CA. If it takes a couple times, that's ok. Turn off the bump, and look to see if it's filled. If not, turn some more. If turning more off, just before the last pass, look and fill again if necessary, take a light pass to remove the excess, and sand. It provides a good solid surface, and doesn't look bad. Just make sure you don't breathe any of the fumes that will probably show when curing. ............. Jerry (in Tucson)
 

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Another option I like is to use on inclusions and recesses like that is brass or copper powder with epoxy. You mix enough powder into the epoxy so that it is almost a putty consistency. This makes it so it works much like a standard wood putty so it won't drain or slump out and also will polish up like solid brass. I usually use a 30 minute epoxy because it takes some time to get it mixed up and put into the hole, though for a small hole you can usually get it done in less than 5 minutes. If you don't want to splurge for some brass powder, you can do the same thing with any dry material like coffee, sawdust, or even old eye shadow.

Here are a couple of examples. This one with couple of bark inclusions:


And here, I filled cracks in the first orb and used a mica dye on the 4th and 6th one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll try that if I can remember. I just remembered coffee, this would be a good place to try it. I started drinking coffee at home a few months ago so now I have it around the house. But the inclusion disappeared on to the floor . maybe my old man disease will go into remission and I'll remember next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
got a problem with the shellac, all i can find are quarts and spray cans, and I don't use much shellac a quart would spoil. I am out of wood and might not be turning for a while. is there anything else that will seal CA out of wood
 

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You can use just about any sort of finish to help shield the CA from discoloring the surrounding wood. I've used paste wax, beeswax, even a very light coat of wiping poly. You can use a very light coat of just about anything but shellac is nice because it sands away so easily. Experiment on some scraps and see which one works. The best one to use is probably whatever you plan to use for your final finish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i have some plain bees wax I'll try that. I like oil and wax finishes or just oil. I would like to try walnut oil But I don't know where to look for it around me and I don't want to order it, shipping is to high
 

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I have found that when one uses an Tung Oil finish that the CA discolouring does not show, as the oil gives the same color as the CA.

Here is a picture of an Applewood bowl I turned, it had grafting openings where the two parts had not grown totally together, I filled those with coffee grind and CA, it was finished with Polymerized Tung Oil, and you can not see anything about having used the CA.

I don't know if another oil would do the same thing, as I never use anything else.

Eye Jaw Wood Artifact Trunk
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I rbbed the crack with a cake of bees wax and then cleaned the wax out of the crack that worked well I'll keep thec oil in mind, thay may have worked in this case the wood is cherry
 
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