Bandsaw riser block alignment problem

I have the same saw and installed my riser a month ago. Here's what I learned.
1- It really isn't a one man job.
2- I used a 3ft level to help align the wheels. Lay it up against the bottom wheel so that it is flush with the face of it and touching in 2 points and then rotate the upper arm so that the level touches the upper wheel the same way before tightening the arm down. You might have to loosen the knob that corrects the wheel for the blade to run centered (can't remember what it's called, sorry) to get it to lie flat against it. Having someone else hold the level is highly recommended.
3- A deep wall 1in socket helps to tighten it down. Open end wrenches didn't have enough clearance for me to crank on it.
4- Without the riser, you could get away with 3/4in blades. Now you will have to keep them at 1/2in. I bought a Starrett 3tpi for resawing. If you haven't changed the guides yet, wax just the teeth before you make your cut. I put mine on to plank out small cedar logs (approx. 8in in diameter and 30in long) and you have to go really slow, one to allow the blade to do the work and two to help keep it cool. Go too fast and you will bog down the motor and possibly trip a breaker. Frequent breaks are also recommended to let the motor cool down.
5- I recommend getting the Kreg bandsaw fence instead of the OEM. It's pretty solid and didn't need to drill any holes for it to fit.
6- Once you get your wheel bands, don't forget to remove the shims you used. When everything is tightened down it won't be tippy.
7- The guard on the bearing side will not go all the way up. You may have to tweak it a little to keep it from rubbing on the wheel. My plan, when I need to cut something taller than it will accept at the moment, is to dremel a slot in the edge of the cover and door for it to rise up through. Not necessary for me right now and my laziness can't justify it until needed.
8- If you were using the blade that came with the riser, get a good quality new one as soon as possible. Especially after having it rub up against the guard.
There are a lot of threads on here for research on what you can do to get it setup and running like a champ. It's where I got most of my information.
Hope this helps.

Update: I got the tires on yesterday and took out the shims. The problem is fixed! I'm pretty embarrassed I didn't catch this problem myself, but you guys saved me a lot more trouble and possible alterations to the saw that would have just made their own messes. Thank you.

Thanks for catching that. I got this bandsaw as a floor model from lowes already assembled and the employee that put it together apparently didn t put the tires on. This is my first bandsaw so I m still figuring it out and missed this obvious component! Thanks everyone. I have some tires on order now and I expect that added thickness will take care of the problem I m having.

- talkingshop21

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Hello,

I also bought this same bandsaw as a floor model from Lowe's last week. Mine is missing the tires and blade too. I knew it was missing the blade but didn't know about missing tires until later. I called Porter Cable and they said they won't provide the missing parts but instead I will have to buy them. Fine - (anyway I was going to put a better blade). But they said the tires are on back order even if I am ready to pay.

One question - can you please tell me where you bought your tires from? And are they working out good for you?

I am also very new to the bandsaw regime and learning. So please help me.

PS - I also plan to buy the riser block sooner than later but I thought first let me get the saw running before I invest in upgrades.

Thanks in advance,

DesiSutar