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I finally got my band saw restored and tuned where i can re-saw with it. The 1/2" 3 tpi hook blade works great for turning a chunk of firewood into usable plane blanks and ripping a 1×6 into 1/2×6. The problem now, I always used the band saw for cutting curves and the like. It just doesn't work with the 1/2" blade. So my question, what does everybody else do for this dilemma? 2 band saws? A scroll saw? Switch blades and setup? Inquiring minds need to know.
 

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A long time ago I found this chart

Note that with a 1/2" blade you cannot cut anything less than a 2-1/2" radius. For general shop work, I keep a 1/4" 6 tpi gap-tooth blade in the saw. According to the chart that should allow a 5/8" radius - hah! Not with the cheapo Craftsman three-wheeler that I have used for so long. The guides aren't anywhere near that good.

The Craftsman is going. I just rebuilt an old Homecraft that I will use. Much higher resaw capability and the blades are easier to change on the two-wheeler. I ordered 2 X 1/4" 3 tpi gap tooth blades and, now that it's running, I will probably order 1/8" blades for tight curves and 1/2" or 5/8" for resawing. Changing the blades and restting the guides isn't enough trouble and I am not rich enough to justify two bandsaws. Let's not even mention limited shop space… ooops!
 

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@DonW, I use the small scroll saw for curves and the small band saw for straights. A larger band saw someday will handle all re-saw chores, but I get by just fine with my two $150 machines for now. good luck.
 

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I always switch between my 1/2'' and my 1/4'' blade. At the beginning of a project I use my half 1/2'' blade for all of my mill work and re-sawing. And the when I finish all of that I look into the project and see if I have any hefty work that my 1/4'' can't do, If not I go ahead and change the blade and a do all my curve cuts.
It is a pain but it works and I'm doing Ok with it.
Matthew
 

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thanks. I'm thinking I need to start looking for a scroll saw. Maybe even a benchtop bandsaw. I really don't want to switch blades out, and I just don't plan my projects that well. I often switch projects before completion which complicates it even more.
 

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I have an old Delta 14" that I upgraded the guides to Carter's and I also slightly round the back edge of the blade itself. You can either buy the Carter grind stone or get a very fine stone from the big box store and as the saw is running place the stone on the table and allow the blade to run against the stone and rotate the stone to smooth and round the back of the blade. This will allow a slightly tighter turning radius and will also keep the sharp edge of the blade from hanging up on the wood. I do it to all of my blades when they are first installed
 
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