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I am new to the group (first post). I have read a number of posts and gotten some good info. Actually it was mostly reviews on this site that lead to my latest purchase, which is what I have a question about.

I just purchased a Rikon 10-325 (not even delivered yet). I am wanting to know the difference in performance of 1/2 inch vs 3/4 inch for re-sawing. It makes sense that the 3/4 would potentially have less drift, but I have heard of people having problems using a 3/4 on a 14" saw. Anyone use a 3/4 on this saw? Any problems?

I am also wondering what brand you suggest for re-saw blades and smaller blades for cutting curves and such. I am looking at Timeberwolf and Woodslicer for re-saw blades, any suggestions?

Also wondering what brand for curve cutting (probably a 1/8" or 1/4" blade to start with).
 

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"The Bandsaw Book" (by Lonnie Bird) recommends no bigger than 1/2" blade for 14" consumer band saws on the basis that they can't bring a 3/4" blade up to proper tension. That's all I know about this. Good luck!

Bill
 

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Agree with Bill.
For smooth n clean cut, use 1/2" 3TPI with skip tooth pattern. Its also good for resawing veneer.
Both brands are good. Timberwolf usually got most thumbs up, worth the higher price.
If you do not have someone very knowledgable around, it is good to have the Band Saw Book by Lonnie Bird. as a reference.
Good luck!
 

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The reps. at Timber Wolf recommend a 1/2 re-saw blade for 14" band saw as well. Also they are very helpful with any questions on type of blades for different cut as well. Also I would recommend the Band Saw Book by L. Bird, great source of information on the entire unit and jigs for the band saw. Good luck Blkcherry
 

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mind you, although the saw can support a 3/4" blade widthwise, the limitation with wider blades (wider than 1/2") and the weak link is the 14" wheels on the 14" bandsaws. these smaller wheels cause a tighter bend in the blade which puts too much stress on it, and in return (cause and effect) this puts more stress on the bandsaw than narrower blades. this can result in over stressing the bandsaw, and more often to broken blades.

for 14" bandsaws, I would stick to max 1/2" blades, 5/8" if you really want to go wider. but I would stay shy of 3/4" blades.

that said - I have the Rikon 14" bandsaw (see my reviews) and I put a woodslicer 1/2" 3tpi blade on it from highlandwoodworking.com - it still cuts to this day clean and straight through whatever I throw at it(10"-12" resaws) I highly recommend that blade, and that supplier for good service.
 

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The only advice I can give is that
'Don't use cheep blades, On sale, like on the internet. I have tried them and have nothing good to say. I wanted to do resawing and waited for blades to come that I bought on sale on the internet. One blade went well on a practice cut, when I started to resaw it broke at about 3 inches in. The next didn't go as far. The third is mounted on the wall with the two broken ones to remind me to "SPEND THE EXTRA AND GET QUALITY"
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys,

I was pretty sure about not using 3/4" blades, now I know for sure. I was going to use either Timberwolf or WoodSlicer for re-saw, seems like both are great!

What about 1/8" or 1/4" blades for curves, should I still go with WS or TW or are other brands just as good or better here. BTW I won't be doing much fine detail, tight cure stuff. Mainly the occasional band saw box and toy for my son.

Thanks again for all the responses.

JAM
 

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First I would measure your wheel. When resawing you want the widest blade on the machine your saw will accept. It will give you more stablility and beam strength. I am not familer with the rikon machine you have but what is the blade length it runs and what is the wheel diameter?

As far as resaw blades you have a few option depending on the finish you are looking for. If you are going to be doing straight resawing and want a fine finish (ie 220 grind sand finish with the least waste) go with a carbide tipped blade. The are a few versions out there, there is the laguna tools resaw king blade which is reshapenable and the lennex blade which is a throw away after it goes dull. If you are resawing and dont care about the finish becouse you are going to plane or run the stock thru the jointer use a bi metal blade. Like I said this blade is going to fly thru the wood and eat up everything in its path so you are going to have high waste and a rough finish. These suggestions are for straight on cutting only.

For your curves, I would use a 3 to 6 tpi blade. That will leave you a medium finish with the least amount of saw marks to sand out later. Depending on the radius of the curve you are cutting as to the width of the band you will want to use. Most of the machines on the market today will only take down to a 1/4" blade out of the crate. It is not the machine but the guides that will not let you use the smaller blades. Check and see if there are some cool blocks available for the guides on your machine. Cool blocks will let you run the 1/8" and 1/16" blades, which are cuts that should actually be done on a scroll saw.
 
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