[BeerBrewer]

Are Carbide tipped bandsaw blades with the added expense?

I am into wood carving, making band saw boxes and other projects than require thicker pieces of wood. I've been using my bandsaw to cut up oak, maple, pine and cedar logs into large-ish blocks of wood, but I'm finding that the blades don't last long at all and I'm wondering if I may be better off using carbide tipped blades. I'm using a 1/2" x 3PC Timber Wolf® Band Saw Blade.

Thoughts?

 

[wapakfred]

For the use you described, I think they are well worth it. That comes with some caveats. It's my understanding they don't do well on saws smaller than 16-17" or os (mine is a 16" and the blade has held up fine). The one I have is a Lenox Tri-Master, and it's the only carbde tipped bandsaw blade I've ever owned....so my endorsement is based on limited experience. But to date I've resawed quite a bit of hardwood (the only thing I do with it) and I've had it 7 years or so...it's still going strong.

 

[WhyMe]

I use the Laguna Resaw King on a 14in bandsaw and it works fine. I've been using it for five years but not doing high volume cutting. Keeping it clean of resin is key to it cutting well. I don't know how many regular blades I would have gone through over five years to really say the carbide tipped blade is worth the cost. I just like how it cuts compared to regular blades.

 

[EdWeber]

I agree with wapakfred,
First I would try a couple different brands of standard blades than the one you're using currently. This way you know if it's the brand or something else before you make the leap to carbide.

 

[newwoodbutcher]

I have have had the Laguna Resaw King on my 18" Rikon for 4-5 years. I'm pretty sure I'll never have to replace it. Or perhaps even sharpen it.

 

[Unknowncraftsman]

They are for me when I need to resaw parts for bent lamination. Most of the time I use a regular carbon steel blade I buy from my saw service guys. I wouldn’t use carbide tipped blades for breaking down chunks of wood .
Especially if the wood is green of dirty.
Green wood will destroy a regular set blade. Woodturners use blades with more set. But you will still have to deal with dirt and remove bark. Cleaning the blade when you start seeing pitch build up is good practice.
Good Luck lots of variables when it comes to bandsaw blades

 

[CaptainKlutz]

+1 If cutting green/wet wood for turning, then need special blades.
Regular blades do not have enough set to remove wet swarf.

A Lenox Trimaster lasted longer than Laguna resaw king in a commercial shop, where I use extra large 20" BS occasionally for resaw. But neither blade one will be happy cutting dirt, or rocks inside stumps common used for turning. Suggest Timberwolf 3/8 or 1/2" x 3 AS type blades for cutting turning blanks.

 

[rwe2156]

I had a lot of bent laminations to do, so I took the opportunity to buy my first carbide blade (Lenox TriMaster) thinking the surface woukd be good enough to avoid rejointing between cuts.

This was not the case, at least on my saw. If you slow or stop the feed the blade leaves a groove. In addition, you loose more material to the wider kerf, and I found the feed pressure was higher. So for me, anyway, longevity is #1 and cut quality is #2.

I view the carbide as a haeavy duty blade for resawing and ripping, but not good for curves and general bandsawing.

IMO the Infinity rip blade is superior to Woodslicer or Timberwolf. This is the blade that stays in my saw.

Bottom line for me, I wouldn’t have bought one had I known what I know now. $200+ is hanging on the wall.

 

[tingaling]

I will join in on the use of the Laguna Resaw King. Mine is set up on my 14" Laguna. I mainly use it for resawing but it is also useful for just ripping in place of the table saw. It's safer to use than the table saw for warped boards. It's my go to machine for tenons. It stays sharp for several years and can be resharpened several times.

 

[rad457]

As a Hobby, shop I get 133" x 1/2" 3 tpi Bahco blades made at a local place that talked me out of the carbide blades which by the way are not created equal, for the price of the Bahco Carbide I can buy almost 5 regular blades which he guaranties me will always be sharper during there life span than a used Carbide?

 

[ward63]

I have 10" Ryobi BS-51 bandsaw, I've used 2" wide, stellite-tipped Ryobi blades with no problems. Band thickness is .0025/1mm give or take. They are $200.00 each. A friend recommended I try the Lenox Woodmaster, they were 1 1/4" .0032"& 1 1/2" .0042. Used them 1 time each both bands cracked. Waste of $150.00 for both. Never again!!! Band thickness matters with the tight radius of 10". If I can find a carbide-tipped blade with a .0025" thickness up to 2" wide, that wood be great.

 

[Lazyman]

I typically use a TW 1/2" x 2AS for green wood but keeping the pitch and sap build up from green wood (logs) off the blade will help keep the TW blade you are using cutting better longer and cooler too. Sometimes just cleaning it makes it cut like it is sharp again. If cleaning it doesn't help then I know it needs to be replaced. When it starts getting some build up, I coil it up and soak it in some Simple Green and it quickly loosens the grime so that it just wipes off. I usually rinse it with water and then oil or wax the blade after drying to preven rust. I keep a block of wax by the saw to help lube the blade from time to time. A large and cheap plant tray makes a great soaking vessel. I pour the Simple Green back into the gallon jug after soaking and use it over and over. I label that jug so it doesn't get used for other cleaning tasks.

 

[difalkner]

Here's another vote for the Laguna Resaw King blade. We have the Laguna 14 SUV with 1" carbide blade and that's all that's ever been on the saw. We bought it about 6 or 7 years ago and the same blade has been on for at least 5 years. I destroyed the first one trying to do something I knew I shouldn't do - ugh! The PSA video is on my YouTube channel if you want to see how NOT to cut a piece of wood. Probably 90% of what I do on the saw is resawing wider stock down to thinner pieces for inlay, acoustic guitar sides/backs/tops, and other places where 3/4" stock is simply too thick.

 

[Oldtom]

For the use you described, I think they are well worth it. That comes with some caveats. It's my understanding they don't do well on saws smaller than 16-17" or os (mine is a 16" and the blade has held up fine). The one I have is a Lenox Tri-Master, and it's the only carbde tipped bandsaw blade I've ever owned....so my endorsement is based on limited experience. But to date I've resawed quite a bit of hardwood (the only thing I do with it) and I've had it 7 years or so...it's still going strong.

Great Blade! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KMDK5FX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[parchping]

I find the carbide blades way too expensive (hobby, 18" bandsaw). I've been using Lenox Diemaster II bimetal blades, which leave a really smooth cut. About a year ago I tried the Lenox Flexback (carbon steel, not bimetal). It has lasted ok, but the cut surface is a lot rougher. I have switched back to Diemaster.