How big is the tank? Is it going to be filled with water? If it is I would use some type of framing not just plywood.
Aquarium Stand - Pocket holes between dowels?
I'm building this stand for my aquarium. It's 3/4 Hickory ply. I've placed dowels top and bottom on the 2 side panels and then on the back panel, I drilled pocket holes every 6 inches on every side. The back sits inside the top, bottom, and 2 sides.
I had planned on doing 4 pocket holes on the left and right side panels between the dowels. Since the inside of the cabinet will be painted, once I plug the holes and paint, you will never see them. So the question is, will I gain any strength of the joint by adding the screws to a dowelled and glued joint? My plan is to glue and clamp up all along the joints with dowels.
Here are some pics of what I've put together:
![Wood Pneumatic tool Flooring Drill Floor]()
![Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Hardwood]()
![Wood Rectangle Gas Flooring Automotive exterior]()
![Wood Floor Hardwood Wood stain Gas]()
(Behind this front panel will be a stretcher made from 2 pieces of 3/4 ply glued and screwed together and then pocket hole screwed into the side panels. I'll then run screws through it into the front panel.)
![Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas]()
![Wood Naval architecture Watercraft Automotive exterior Gas]()
I had planned on doing 4 pocket holes on the left and right side panels between the dowels. Since the inside of the cabinet will be painted, once I plug the holes and paint, you will never see them. So the question is, will I gain any strength of the joint by adding the screws to a dowelled and glued joint? My plan is to glue and clamp up all along the joints with dowels.
Here are some pics of what I've put together:
(Behind this front panel will be a stretcher made from 2 pieces of 3/4 ply glued and screwed together and then pocket hole screwed into the side panels. I'll then run screws through it into the front panel.)
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I think that the plywood sides and back will be pretty strong, though the front corners need more support, IMO. If you think about it, four 2×4s in the corners are less wood than the 3 sides of plywood as long as the joinery prevents them from bowing out our racking. The dowels and pocket screws (and glue) on the back panel will prevent that. My concern is with the top and front apron, stretcher or whatever that header is called. I think that doubling it up makes it strong enough but I would want support under it, not just attached to the front. I probably would have put it under the top, like the apron of a table and if you add a vertical strip under each end on the front, that adds more support and also makes the front corners stronger (attach them to the sides with pocket screws). I built plywood legs for my "assembly/outfeed table (see below) and the legs are plenty strong. I have had 400-500 lbs on it and it seemed rock solid. It also would not hurt to put a piece under the top in the middle connecting the front header to the back. My 2-cents.
Thanks Nathan. If you look at 5th pic that shows the front top panel, I mentioned doing your idea of doubling up a stretcher behind that and it would be directly under the top. Good idea!I think that the plywood sides and back will be pretty strong, though the front corners need more support, IMO. If you think about it, four 2×4s in the corners are less wood than the 3 sides of plywood as long as the joinery prevents them from bowing out our racking. The dowels and pocket screws (and glue) on the back panel will prevent that. My concern is with the top and front apron, stretcher or whatever that header is called. I think that doubling it up makes it strong enough but I would want support under it, not just attached to the front. I probably would have put it under the top, like the apron of a table and if you add a vertical strip under each end on the front, that adds more support and also makes the front corners stronger (attach them to the sides with pocket screws). I built plywood legs for my "assembly/outfeed table (see below) and the legs are plenty strong. I have had 400-500 lbs on it and it seemed rock solid. It also would not hurt to put a piece under the top in the middle connecting the front header to the back. My 2-cents.
- Lazyman
I did also consider adding a center upright brace once the sump is in. I like that idea.I'm on the fence about that. It has some benefit other than supporting the front side as it will also block light from escaping the gap between the doors. There's a light that will be on inside the cabinet during the night and it would be nice to block that.
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