LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner
  • Please post in our Community Feedback thread for help with the new forum software! If you are having trouble logging in, please Contact Us for assistance.
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Chaps, I am been asked to make a reproduction of the table shown here and I am at a bit of a loss on how to cut the recess shown on the rails. I know there is a simple method of doing it but have got a complete brain freeze on the topic.

Could someone put me out of my misery please?

Thanks


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,101 Posts
a 45 degree chamfer router bit (although I doubt they make one that big) and a bearing? or fence. I have a shaper but that is big enough. Hang on for dear life and make sure you have a lead line on the start and finish (means the piece is longer then you need). probably multiple passes as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a spindle moulder so any tooling that could cut it is an option, its the arc that has me thrown really. I hate pushing a piece of wood onto the moulder, no matter how many times I do it with every safety precaution I can come up it is scares the bejezus out of me!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,101 Posts
the shaper is about the only tool that still makes my heart pound but thats why you need a long lead and a long tail. By placing a pin (most shapers have several threaded holes in the bed to screw in pins) so that you use the pin as a place to carefully and slowly put the piece to shaping bit with bearing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,545 Posts
I'm with BroDave. I'd do it on my router table, big ol' bullnose or core box type bit, with stops on the fence to limit it to the leg length. In fact, I think I'd leave room on either end, and cut that down to the leg width plus the length of the recess cut later, because I have to be less accurate about the length of the recess cut then. But I think that's a matter of which cut you think you can make more accurately.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,740 Posts
this looks like ~4" legs? judging from what I haven't seen any router bit that size (core box bit would have to have a 4" diameter to accomodate for the ~2" cove cut.

the only ways I know of to make such a molding cut is either a shaper, or a TS, but because of the stopped cuts I would have to say it was done with a shaper as I wouldn't take my chances with the TS setup for stopped cuts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,545 Posts
If those are 4" legs, then the recess is only like 1" or 1½" radius. I'm sure Whiteside sells a bit that'll do that.

If you can't get a router or shaper bit that size, how about building a jig to cut that with a small blade in something like an angle grinder? My first thought was the way you do a cove cut with a diagonal pass across a table saw or with a circular saw, but that wouldn't get the end shape right. However, someone's got to make a blade that'd do the right thing that'd fit in a 4" angle grinder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
459 Posts
I have in the past done larger coves on the tablesaw by carefully guiding the workpiece across the face of the sawblade and then raising it up a bit at a time to increase the depth of the cove. The final product needs scraping and sanding to get the lines out but it works. The only hard part on that application would be the gradual start and stop of the shape.

Maybe you could get a Cove raised panel bit from mcls or other manufacturer, with a bearing or rub collar that would do the trick and not cost an arm and leg.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,545 Posts
Still be a scary bit to wield, it'd take me a bunch of passes to cut the cove that deep…

Looks like Whiteside's #1417 is a 1" radius core box bit. I'm looking for something with less of a circular profile, but Whiteside's "classic round bottom" link isn't giving me anything, and I'm reminded of why I had a paper catalog: their website sucks.

Amana has a H45948-CNC, but they have a warning about using it in CNC machines only. I'd risk it, but only if the piece was well restrained and I was taking off very small bits at a time (and, yes, my garage door does have a dent in it where I got bit rotation wrong once and saw high speed kickback in action. I keep meaning to do that again with video running as a cautionary tale…). In a router table with stops on the fence, and a stop outside of the fence, I think this'd could be a safe cut even with a bit that large.

I was hoping for something like the Amana bowl and tray bits in a wider diameter, but don't see one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Folks, it isn't a 45* cut. It is hollowed, like a core box bit, shaper or table saw would produce.

I really don't think that you could reproduce that on a table saw( too small of a radius) so the OP is left with core box or a shaper
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
When I look at the middle part, I see a table saw cut, but at the corners it looks like a 4" diameter drum sander, with the piece held at an angle. You might have to hand fair the ends to make the transitions look right.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
the biggest core box bit I can find is a 2 inch diameter and you just don't see how that will be big enough. I would carve it but as I have to do one on each end of each rail, doing 8 and getting them in some proximity to identical is going to take so long I really don't think I could make money on the job! The problem, just to clarify is the gentle/semi circular part at each end, not the recess itself which is basic.

I'm going to buy a 2'' core bit and see how it looks but I really think it is bigger than that. we will see. Thanks you all for your ideas, I really appreciate them and please keep them coming
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top