A small conference table - the build

AlNavas said:

Start applying the finish to the top, and set up legs and aprons

I continue work. For the upcoming several days I will continue applying the finish to the top; today I started applying the Zinsser Seal Coat (shellac) to the underside. And work started on setting up for cutting tenons on the aprons, and mortises on the legs.

From my blog:

Sometimes, decisions are tough.

For example, to start the work day today, I debated whether to start applying the Zinsser Seal Coat to the table top as it lay on the workbench, or take into the finishing room. The finishing room won:

I include the following photo to illustrate the importance of using a turntable, to make it easy to arrange things. Since it is critical to be able to properly reach all sides of the work piece, something is needed to make this easy. Imagine YOU between the work piece and the exhaust fan (as in the photo above) when spraying - bingo! You get the idea - spray all over your face, your clothes…

The next photo illustrates the best arrangement: The work piece should be between you, and the exhaust fan -and the turntable is the best way to do it:

Now that I am set up to apply the finish in proper sequence in the finishing room, it is time to start work on the legs and aprons. I milled one test board out of quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO); it is of the same dimensions as the actual table aprons: 1 inch thick, and 4 inches wide. I started carefully laying out the tenons.

The Leigh FMT is a machine that gives extremely accurate results, and lets you dial in the fit; but it requires accurate layouts, and test cuts to dial in the best fit. In the next photo I am carefully marking the center of the width of the board - and I will do something similar when marking the half-thickness. Notice I use calipers to achieve the accuracy I want, and need:

Now I take the apron to the FMT, and start the setup for the test runs - it is important to make sure the side stop fence is set such that the work piece will be centered properly:

After placing the apron against the side stop fence, I adjust the table limit stops (for the X and the Y directions) on the FMT and lock the settings - I don't want things moving once I start cutting mortises and tenons:

The work piece is centered in the table bit opening fairly well. I set the work piece tight up against the joint aligning sight; it looks like a target - and it is:

An amazing thing about the human eye is its ability to excel at comparisons. I believe I centered the work piece quite well in this next photo - if you click on it to enlarge it, you will notice that I actually marked two lines, one from each side of the board, using the calipers; I may be off center by a little less than 0.001″:

Once the work piece is aligned properly, it is time to set the router bit cutting depth. For the aprons I want tenons 2-1/4 inches long, and 1/2-inch wide; they will go into mortises in the 3-inch square legs:

As I will make test cuts with the FMT, and I want to make both the mortises and the tenons using only one setting, I will also need test legs. I milled some waste QSWO, glued it, and now I start milling the glued up test leg. First, I must remove the glue that squeezed out:

After scraping the glue as well as possible, I trim to 3-1/4 inches, square, on the band saw:

By now it was time to head to the house, get some rest, and have dinner (or supper, depending on where you live).

Next: I continue applying the finish to the table top. And, while each coat dries, I will continue setting up to cut mortises and tenons using the FMT. And, in between all this, I will get the walnut ready for glue-up of the legs, and start milling the QSWO boards that will be the aprons.

Thanks for following along!

Al

Click to expand...

AlNavas said:

Start applying the finish to the top, and set up legs and aprons

I continue work. For the upcoming several days I will continue applying the finish to the top; today I started applying the Zinsser Seal Coat (shellac) to the underside. And work started on setting up for cutting tenons on the aprons, and mortises on the legs.

From my blog:

Sometimes, decisions are tough.

For example, to start the work day today, I debated whether to start applying the Zinsser Seal Coat to the table top as it lay on the workbench, or take into the finishing room. The finishing room won:

I include the following photo to illustrate the importance of using a turntable, to make it easy to arrange things. Since it is critical to be able to properly reach all sides of the work piece, something is needed to make this easy. Imagine YOU between the work piece and the exhaust fan (as in the photo above) when spraying - bingo! You get the idea - spray all over your face, your clothes…

The next photo illustrates the best arrangement: The work piece should be between you, and the exhaust fan -and the turntable is the best way to do it:

Now that I am set up to apply the finish in proper sequence in the finishing room, it is time to start work on the legs and aprons. I milled one test board out of quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO); it is of the same dimensions as the actual table aprons: 1 inch thick, and 4 inches wide. I started carefully laying out the tenons.

The Leigh FMT is a machine that gives extremely accurate results, and lets you dial in the fit; but it requires accurate layouts, and test cuts to dial in the best fit. In the next photo I am carefully marking the center of the width of the board - and I will do something similar when marking the half-thickness. Notice I use calipers to achieve the accuracy I want, and need:

Now I take the apron to the FMT, and start the setup for the test runs - it is important to make sure the side stop fence is set such that the work piece will be centered properly:

After placing the apron against the side stop fence, I adjust the table limit stops (for the X and the Y directions) on the FMT and lock the settings - I don't want things moving once I start cutting mortises and tenons:

The work piece is centered in the table bit opening fairly well. I set the work piece tight up against the joint aligning sight; it looks like a target - and it is:

An amazing thing about the human eye is its ability to excel at comparisons. I believe I centered the work piece quite well in this next photo - if you click on it to enlarge it, you will notice that I actually marked two lines, one from each side of the board, using the calipers; I may be off center by a little less than 0.001″:

Once the work piece is aligned properly, it is time to set the router bit cutting depth. For the aprons I want tenons 2-1/4 inches long, and 1/2-inch wide; they will go into mortises in the 3-inch square legs:

As I will make test cuts with the FMT, and I want to make both the mortises and the tenons using only one setting, I will also need test legs. I milled some waste QSWO, glued it, and now I start milling the glued up test leg. First, I must remove the glue that squeezed out:

After scraping the glue as well as possible, I trim to 3-1/4 inches, square, on the band saw:

By now it was time to head to the house, get some rest, and have dinner (or supper, depending on where you live).

Next: I continue applying the finish to the table top. And, while each coat dries, I will continue setting up to cut mortises and tenons using the FMT. And, in between all this, I will get the walnut ready for glue-up of the legs, and start milling the QSWO boards that will be the aprons.

Thanks for following along!

Al

Click to expand...

AlNavas said:

Apply varnish to the top, and more on the legs and aprons

From my blog:

Where I was a while ago: Application of the Zinsser SealCoat™ (an alcohol-based, wax-free sanding sealer) went well. The secret: Apply very thin coats with a lint-free rag, wiping as you go. Wait a minimum of 2 hours, then sand with 400 grit sandpaper, until smooth to the touch - but don't sand all the way to the wood. Repeat once.

Today: 1) Time to apply the first coat of Target Coatings' EM2000wvx waterborne alkyd varnish:

Also today: 2) I fine-tuned the mortise and tenon fit on a test leg made of scrap, glued-up quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO):

Now, some details.

Setting up the FMT to make the tenons - I don't want to do this while perched 6 feet above the ground, so I do this with the FMT on the workbench:

As a first step, I record all dimensions for the test tenons; this simply makes it easier to tweak the fit:

Just for kicks, I make sure I won't cut through into another mortise. For this I make a new test mortise, at 90° from the first one, on the face where the other tenon will be - I cut this one, to share with YOU:

Now, to cut a test mortise:

This is my view when I remove the router from the FMT:

I wanted a 1/4-inch reveal from the front edge of the leg - and got it:

Now that the mortise and tenon joinery fit has been tweaked, I turn my attention to spraying the table top.

Getting ready to spray took about 10 minutes. The steps:

1. Filter water into one Teflon®-coated aluminum spray cup, using a Fine paint filter - I will use this water to clean the internals of the HVLP system; I will do it after spraying each of the 2 or 3 coats:

2. Stir the top coat. Satin sheen coatings have a "flattening agent" that settles to the bottom of the can; it must be stirred prior to application:

3. After stirring, filter the topcoat using a Medium filter, directly into a Teflon®-coated aluminum spray cup:

4. Proper application of a finish using HVLP equipment requires careful adjustment of the air flow, and of the material being sprayed. I shoot into Kraft paper I tape to the back panel of the booth:

5. Once I am happy with my adjustments, I start spraying. I am especially careful to fully coat spray all edges, and about 3 inches into the top surface. This ensures proper coverage:

6. As soon as I finish spraying I inspect the surface, to ensure sufficient coverage. The applied spray must be "wet", and applied at a wet film thickness of 2-3 mils (thousands of an inch); if not, the finish will have a somewhat rough feel. On inspection, this first application of the varnish went well (the final appearance will not be shiny, but rather a nice, satin finish):

Actual spraying took about 5 minutes, followed by about 5 minutes to clean up the spray gun.

Enough for today. After cleaning the spray equipment, I headed to the house, and a wonderful dinner - spinach salad and a few crackers!

Next: Continue spraying the table top, mill the QSWO boards for the aprons, finish milling the walnut blanks for the legs, glue up the legs. Use the Leigh FMT to cut mortises on the legs, and the tenons on the aprons.

Thanks for following along!

Al

Click to expand...

AlNavas said:

Apply varnish to the top, and more on the legs and aprons

From my blog:

Where I was a while ago: Application of the Zinsser SealCoat™ (an alcohol-based, wax-free sanding sealer) went well. The secret: Apply very thin coats with a lint-free rag, wiping as you go. Wait a minimum of 2 hours, then sand with 400 grit sandpaper, until smooth to the touch - but don't sand all the way to the wood. Repeat once.

Today: 1) Time to apply the first coat of Target Coatings' EM2000wvx waterborne alkyd varnish:

Also today: 2) I fine-tuned the mortise and tenon fit on a test leg made of scrap, glued-up quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO):

Now, some details.

Setting up the FMT to make the tenons - I don't want to do this while perched 6 feet above the ground, so I do this with the FMT on the workbench:

As a first step, I record all dimensions for the test tenons; this simply makes it easier to tweak the fit:

Just for kicks, I make sure I won't cut through into another mortise. For this I make a new test mortise, at 90° from the first one, on the face where the other tenon will be - I cut this one, to share with YOU:

Now, to cut a test mortise:

This is my view when I remove the router from the FMT:

I wanted a 1/4-inch reveal from the front edge of the leg - and got it:

Now that the mortise and tenon joinery fit has been tweaked, I turn my attention to spraying the table top.

Getting ready to spray took about 10 minutes. The steps:

1. Filter water into one Teflon®-coated aluminum spray cup, using a Fine paint filter - I will use this water to clean the internals of the HVLP system; I will do it after spraying each of the 2 or 3 coats:

2. Stir the top coat. Satin sheen coatings have a "flattening agent" that settles to the bottom of the can; it must be stirred prior to application:

3. After stirring, filter the topcoat using a Medium filter, directly into a Teflon®-coated aluminum spray cup:

4. Proper application of a finish using HVLP equipment requires careful adjustment of the air flow, and of the material being sprayed. I shoot into Kraft paper I tape to the back panel of the booth:

5. Once I am happy with my adjustments, I start spraying. I am especially careful to fully coat spray all edges, and about 3 inches into the top surface. This ensures proper coverage:

6. As soon as I finish spraying I inspect the surface, to ensure sufficient coverage. The applied spray must be "wet", and applied at a wet film thickness of 2-3 mils (thousands of an inch); if not, the finish will have a somewhat rough feel. On inspection, this first application of the varnish went well (the final appearance will not be shiny, but rather a nice, satin finish):

Actual spraying took about 5 minutes, followed by about 5 minutes to clean up the spray gun.

Enough for today. After cleaning the spray equipment, I headed to the house, and a wonderful dinner - spinach salad and a few crackers!

Next: Continue spraying the table top, mill the QSWO boards for the aprons, finish milling the walnut blanks for the legs, glue up the legs. Use the Leigh FMT to cut mortises on the legs, and the tenons on the aprons.

Thanks for following along!

Al

Click to expand...

AlNavas said:

Apply varnish to the top, and more on the legs and aprons

From my blog:

Where I was a while ago: Application of the Zinsser SealCoat™ (an alcohol-based, wax-free sanding sealer) went well. The secret: Apply very thin coats with a lint-free rag, wiping as you go. Wait a minimum of 2 hours, then sand with 400 grit sandpaper, until smooth to the touch - but don't sand all the way to the wood. Repeat once.

Today: 1) Time to apply the first coat of Target Coatings' EM2000wvx waterborne alkyd varnish:

Also today: 2) I fine-tuned the mortise and tenon fit on a test leg made of scrap, glued-up quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO):

Now, some details.

Setting up the FMT to make the tenons - I don't want to do this while perched 6 feet above the ground, so I do this with the FMT on the workbench:

As a first step, I record all dimensions for the test tenons; this simply makes it easier to tweak the fit:

Just for kicks, I make sure I won't cut through into another mortise. For this I make a new test mortise, at 90° from the first one, on the face where the other tenon will be - I cut this one, to share with YOU:

Now, to cut a test mortise:

This is my view when I remove the router from the FMT:

I wanted a 1/4-inch reveal from the front edge of the leg - and got it:

Now that the mortise and tenon joinery fit has been tweaked, I turn my attention to spraying the table top.

Getting ready to spray took about 10 minutes. The steps:

1. Filter water into one Teflon®-coated aluminum spray cup, using a Fine paint filter - I will use this water to clean the internals of the HVLP system; I will do it after spraying each of the 2 or 3 coats:

2. Stir the top coat. Satin sheen coatings have a "flattening agent" that settles to the bottom of the can; it must be stirred prior to application:

3. After stirring, filter the topcoat using a Medium filter, directly into a Teflon®-coated aluminum spray cup:

4. Proper application of a finish using HVLP equipment requires careful adjustment of the air flow, and of the material being sprayed. I shoot into Kraft paper I tape to the back panel of the booth:

5. Once I am happy with my adjustments, I start spraying. I am especially careful to fully coat spray all edges, and about 3 inches into the top surface. This ensures proper coverage:

6. As soon as I finish spraying I inspect the surface, to ensure sufficient coverage. The applied spray must be "wet", and applied at a wet film thickness of 2-3 mils (thousands of an inch); if not, the finish will have a somewhat rough feel. On inspection, this first application of the varnish went well (the final appearance will not be shiny, but rather a nice, satin finish):

Actual spraying took about 5 minutes, followed by about 5 minutes to clean up the spray gun.

Enough for today. After cleaning the spray equipment, I headed to the house, and a wonderful dinner - spinach salad and a few crackers!

Next: Continue spraying the table top, mill the QSWO boards for the aprons, finish milling the walnut blanks for the legs, glue up the legs. Use the Leigh FMT to cut mortises on the legs, and the tenons on the aprons.

Thanks for following along!

Al

Click to expand...

AlNavas said:

Apply varnish to the top, and more on the legs and aprons

From my blog:

Where I was a while ago: Application of the Zinsser SealCoat™ (an alcohol-based, wax-free sanding sealer) went well. The secret: Apply very thin coats with a lint-free rag, wiping as you go. Wait a minimum of 2 hours, then sand with 400 grit sandpaper, until smooth to the touch - but don't sand all the way to the wood. Repeat once.

Today: 1) Time to apply the first coat of Target Coatings' EM2000wvx waterborne alkyd varnish:

Also today: 2) I fine-tuned the mortise and tenon fit on a test leg made of scrap, glued-up quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO):

Now, some details.

Setting up the FMT to make the tenons - I don't want to do this while perched 6 feet above the ground, so I do this with the FMT on the workbench:

As a first step, I record all dimensions for the test tenons; this simply makes it easier to tweak the fit:

Just for kicks, I make sure I won't cut through into another mortise. For this I make a new test mortise, at 90° from the first one, on the face where the other tenon will be - I cut this one, to share with YOU:

Now, to cut a test mortise:

This is my view when I remove the router from the FMT:

I wanted a 1/4-inch reveal from the front edge of the leg - and got it:

Now that the mortise and tenon joinery fit has been tweaked, I turn my attention to spraying the table top.

Getting ready to spray took about 10 minutes. The steps:

1. Filter water into one Teflon®-coated aluminum spray cup, using a Fine paint filter - I will use this water to clean the internals of the HVLP system; I will do it after spraying each of the 2 or 3 coats:

2. Stir the top coat. Satin sheen coatings have a "flattening agent" that settles to the bottom of the can; it must be stirred prior to application:

3. After stirring, filter the topcoat using a Medium filter, directly into a Teflon®-coated aluminum spray cup:

4. Proper application of a finish using HVLP equipment requires careful adjustment of the air flow, and of the material being sprayed. I shoot into Kraft paper I tape to the back panel of the booth:

5. Once I am happy with my adjustments, I start spraying. I am especially careful to fully coat spray all edges, and about 3 inches into the top surface. This ensures proper coverage:

6. As soon as I finish spraying I inspect the surface, to ensure sufficient coverage. The applied spray must be "wet", and applied at a wet film thickness of 2-3 mils (thousands of an inch); if not, the finish will have a somewhat rough feel. On inspection, this first application of the varnish went well (the final appearance will not be shiny, but rather a nice, satin finish):

Actual spraying took about 5 minutes, followed by about 5 minutes to clean up the spray gun.

Enough for today. After cleaning the spray equipment, I headed to the house, and a wonderful dinner - spinach salad and a few crackers!

Next: Continue spraying the table top, mill the QSWO boards for the aprons, finish milling the walnut blanks for the legs, glue up the legs. Use the Leigh FMT to cut mortises on the legs, and the tenons on the aprons.

Thanks for following along!

Al

Click to expand...

AlNavas said:

Finish the underside of the top, and get walnut ready for the legs

From my blog - Friday's work:

After applying four layers of the Target Coatings' EM2000wvx topcoat to the underside of the table, it feels like it might be done. However, before turning over the top, to complete the finish on the top side, I will check it again tomorrow morning (Saturday), and decide then.

Today I sanded lightly but thoroughly between each application of the topcoat. It paid off, as the fourth and final application today resulted in a wonderfully smooth surface. In the following photo I am using 600 grit sandpaper between spray sessions, slow and easy, until I know it is ready - it will feel ready for the next layer:

In between spraying the table top, and waiting at least one hour to do the sanding, I started measuring for the table legs. I cut walnut for the legs for this table, and for the stand-up desk I will build later for my client; with the FMT and other "stuff" on the workbench, I must make do with my old folding saw horses :-( :

The day went well; the weather was terrific, as we had lots of sun and 66°F - a wonderful Spring day in the middle of Winter in NW Missouri. With all the blinds in the shop open, and a window cracked to allow make-up air to come into the finishing room, it felt great!

.

Click to expand...