[AlNavas]

Preparing the boards

From my blog:

Now I start the full-size conference table for a client. This table will be 2X the size of this one I shared here, and submitted to the Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards:

But I will change the edge treatment as follows:

I want to be able do preliminary grain matching, before cutting the boards closer to size. Since at this stage I am not flattening the boards, the #3 is perfect and fast for the job:

Rough boards are not perfectly flat, so my planing stop did not do its job. Time to bring out something more substantial - the Gramercy holdfast - one good WHACK!, and I can resume planing:

Cleaned up, so I could use the floor to match the boards before cutting them to length plus about 6 inches:

Now I can better match the boards, and decide where to cut them:

Once cut, I use the power jointer and planer to make these perfectly flat. The edges needed a little tweaking, so I used the "other" jointer, to create a little "spring" in the joint, to minimize the risk of gaps developing near the ends of the table; the boards in the clamps are already done, and the surface between them is perfectly flat; but I still must do the third and fourth boards:

At the end of the day I had to peek at the grain on one of the boards for the aprons:

The build continues… Thanks for following along!

Al

 

[sbryan55]

Preparing the boards

From my blog:

Now I start the full-size conference table for a client. This table will be 2X the size of this one I shared here, and submitted to the Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards:

But I will change the edge treatment as follows:

I want to be able do preliminary grain matching, before cutting the boards closer to size. Since at this stage I am not flattening the boards, the #3 is perfect and fast for the job:

Rough boards are not perfectly flat, so my planing stop did not do its job. Time to bring out something more substantial - the Gramercy holdfast - one good WHACK!, and I can resume planing:

Cleaned up, so I could use the floor to match the boards before cutting them to length plus about 6 inches:

Now I can better match the boards, and decide where to cut them:

Once cut, I use the power jointer and planer to make these perfectly flat. The edges needed a little tweaking, so I used the "other" jointer, to create a little "spring" in the joint, to minimize the risk of gaps developing near the ends of the table; the boards in the clamps are already done, and the surface between them is perfectly flat; but I still must do the third and fourth boards:

At the end of the day I had to peek at the grain on one of the boards for the aprons:

The build continues… Thanks for following along!

Al

This is off to an interesting start and it looks like this is going to be a nice series to see. I am looking forward to the next installment. Construction posts like this give a lot of detail and add a lot of interest in the completed project post.

 

[woodworm]

Preparing the boards

From my blog:

Now I start the full-size conference table for a client. This table will be 2X the size of this one I shared here, and submitted to the Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards:

But I will change the edge treatment as follows:

I want to be able do preliminary grain matching, before cutting the boards closer to size. Since at this stage I am not flattening the boards, the #3 is perfect and fast for the job:

Rough boards are not perfectly flat, so my planing stop did not do its job. Time to bring out something more substantial - the Gramercy holdfast - one good WHACK!, and I can resume planing:

Cleaned up, so I could use the floor to match the boards before cutting them to length plus about 6 inches:

Now I can better match the boards, and decide where to cut them:

Once cut, I use the power jointer and planer to make these perfectly flat. The edges needed a little tweaking, so I used the "other" jointer, to create a little "spring" in the joint, to minimize the risk of gaps developing near the ends of the table; the boards in the clamps are already done, and the surface between them is perfectly flat; but I still must do the third and fourth boards:

At the end of the day I had to peek at the grain on one of the boards for the aprons:

The build continues… Thanks for following along!

Al

Wow I salute you Al ( since I don't wear hat) for doing board truing (from roughing… to smoothing) all by hand planing. I appreciate your effort and hardwork. Because not only I do not have the skill, I have two small hands with no muscle to flex.
I'm following your progress - since I started to like working with wood mostly by hand.
Great work Al!
Thanks for sharing.

 

[tenontim]

Preparing the boards

From my blog:

Now I start the full-size conference table for a client. This table will be 2X the size of this one I shared here, and submitted to the Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards:

But I will change the edge treatment as follows:

I want to be able do preliminary grain matching, before cutting the boards closer to size. Since at this stage I am not flattening the boards, the #3 is perfect and fast for the job:

Rough boards are not perfectly flat, so my planing stop did not do its job. Time to bring out something more substantial - the Gramercy holdfast - one good WHACK!, and I can resume planing:

Cleaned up, so I could use the floor to match the boards before cutting them to length plus about 6 inches:

Now I can better match the boards, and decide where to cut them:

Once cut, I use the power jointer and planer to make these perfectly flat. The edges needed a little tweaking, so I used the "other" jointer, to create a little "spring" in the joint, to minimize the risk of gaps developing near the ends of the table; the boards in the clamps are already done, and the surface between them is perfectly flat; but I still must do the third and fourth boards:

At the end of the day I had to peek at the grain on one of the boards for the aprons:

The build continues… Thanks for following along!

Al

Looks like you're off to a good start, Al. I always love it when you get the flake exposed on white oak, then the fun of matching all the pieces together. Waiting for the next installment.

 

[Dusty56]

Preparing the boards

From my blog:

Now I start the full-size conference table for a client. This table will be 2X the size of this one I shared here, and submitted to the Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards:

But I will change the edge treatment as follows:

I want to be able do preliminary grain matching, before cutting the boards closer to size. Since at this stage I am not flattening the boards, the #3 is perfect and fast for the job:

Rough boards are not perfectly flat, so my planing stop did not do its job. Time to bring out something more substantial - the Gramercy holdfast - one good WHACK!, and I can resume planing:

Cleaned up, so I could use the floor to match the boards before cutting them to length plus about 6 inches:

Now I can better match the boards, and decide where to cut them:

Once cut, I use the power jointer and planer to make these perfectly flat. The edges needed a little tweaking, so I used the "other" jointer, to create a little "spring" in the joint, to minimize the risk of gaps developing near the ends of the table; the boards in the clamps are already done, and the surface between them is perfectly flat; but I still must do the third and fourth boards:

At the end of the day I had to peek at the grain on one of the boards for the aprons:

The build continues… Thanks for following along!

Al

Excellent blog so far ….I can't wait to see the final results : )

 

[Tangle]

Preparing the boards

From my blog:

Now I start the full-size conference table for a client. This table will be 2X the size of this one I shared here, and submitted to the Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards:

But I will change the edge treatment as follows:

I want to be able do preliminary grain matching, before cutting the boards closer to size. Since at this stage I am not flattening the boards, the #3 is perfect and fast for the job:

Rough boards are not perfectly flat, so my planing stop did not do its job. Time to bring out something more substantial - the Gramercy holdfast - one good WHACK!, and I can resume planing:

Cleaned up, so I could use the floor to match the boards before cutting them to length plus about 6 inches:

Now I can better match the boards, and decide where to cut them:

Once cut, I use the power jointer and planer to make these perfectly flat. The edges needed a little tweaking, so I used the "other" jointer, to create a little "spring" in the joint, to minimize the risk of gaps developing near the ends of the table; the boards in the clamps are already done, and the surface between them is perfectly flat; but I still must do the third and fourth boards:

At the end of the day I had to peek at the grain on one of the boards for the aprons:

The build continues… Thanks for following along!

Al

looking good, Al.

 

[AlNavas]

Preparing the boards

From my blog:

Now I start the full-size conference table for a client. This table will be 2X the size of this one I shared here, and submitted to the Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards:

But I will change the edge treatment as follows:

I want to be able do preliminary grain matching, before cutting the boards closer to size. Since at this stage I am not flattening the boards, the #3 is perfect and fast for the job:

Rough boards are not perfectly flat, so my planing stop did not do its job. Time to bring out something more substantial - the Gramercy holdfast - one good WHACK!, and I can resume planing:

Cleaned up, so I could use the floor to match the boards before cutting them to length plus about 6 inches:

Now I can better match the boards, and decide where to cut them:

Once cut, I use the power jointer and planer to make these perfectly flat. The edges needed a little tweaking, so I used the "other" jointer, to create a little "spring" in the joint, to minimize the risk of gaps developing near the ends of the table; the boards in the clamps are already done, and the surface between them is perfectly flat; but I still must do the third and fourth boards:

At the end of the day I had to peek at the grain on one of the boards for the aprons:

The build continues… Thanks for following along!

Al

Thanks, Scott! I will be posting from time to time, but mostly as I make true progress.

Woodworm,
Thanks! I did the first joining and planing using power tools, and then switched to the hand plane to refine the edges to get a sprung joint.

Tim,
It is truly exciting to see those flakes come up - agreed!

Thanks, Dusty!

And my thanks to you, Thomas!

 

[AlNavas]

The full-size table: Gluing up the top

My thanks to all who read and looked at the beginning of the build of the full-size table.

Now I continue, with the glue-up of the boards that will make up the table top. The top will be 1-1/2 inches thick, 30 inches wide, and 60 inches long. At this stage the boards are a little thicker than 1-5/8".

From my blog:

After prepping the boards that will make up the table top, it is now time to glue them up. Due to their sheer size, I do this in stages, two boards at a time. Doing it this way removes much of the anxiety associated with large glue-ups.

I apply sufficient glue to get some squeeze out and, using several clamps while carefully lining up the edges as I go, I gradually start clamping down from the center toward the edges. When finished, I normally want a small bead of glue all along the glue line, on both sides of the boards being glued. I then wipe down much of the excess; and, when the remaining glue starts to gel, I scrape it off. The following photo shows one half of the table top immediately after tightening the last clamp; note the size of the glue bead I get:

Once I remove the bulk of the remaining glue I check for flatness, using a good straight edge; the two glue-ups I did today were perfectly flat - a pleasing result after the work that has gone into these so far.

No doubt, the nice flat surface is the result of spending the time with a hand plane to touch up the board edges, in preparation for the glue-up.

Next: I will glue the two sets of boards I glued up today. At that point the entire table top will be ready for sanding to final thickness. Since I don't have a machine that will take this huge slab, I will use a friend's wide belt sander. Later I will use another friend's slider to cut the top to final length on his table saw. I hope to document those two critical steps soon.

I think my newly-found muscles are starting to feel better. They ached for two solid days. And, to quote Peter McDonald, one of James Patterson's characters, today "...everything was copacetic…" (1)

Thanks for reading about my build of this table!

(1) The Season of the Machete, Page 75, James Patterson, 1980

.

 

[sbryan55]

The full-size table: Gluing up the top

My thanks to all who read and looked at the beginning of the build of the full-size table.

Now I continue, with the glue-up of the boards that will make up the table top. The top will be 1-1/2 inches thick, 30 inches wide, and 60 inches long. At this stage the boards are a little thicker than 1-5/8".

From my blog:

After prepping the boards that will make up the table top, it is now time to glue them up. Due to their sheer size, I do this in stages, two boards at a time. Doing it this way removes much of the anxiety associated with large glue-ups.

I apply sufficient glue to get some squeeze out and, using several clamps while carefully lining up the edges as I go, I gradually start clamping down from the center toward the edges. When finished, I normally want a small bead of glue all along the glue line, on both sides of the boards being glued. I then wipe down much of the excess; and, when the remaining glue starts to gel, I scrape it off. The following photo shows one half of the table top immediately after tightening the last clamp; note the size of the glue bead I get:

Once I remove the bulk of the remaining glue I check for flatness, using a good straight edge; the two glue-ups I did today were perfectly flat - a pleasing result after the work that has gone into these so far.

No doubt, the nice flat surface is the result of spending the time with a hand plane to touch up the board edges, in preparation for the glue-up.

Next: I will glue the two sets of boards I glued up today. At that point the entire table top will be ready for sanding to final thickness. Since I don't have a machine that will take this huge slab, I will use a friend's wide belt sander. Later I will use another friend's slider to cut the top to final length on his table saw. I hope to document those two critical steps soon.

I think my newly-found muscles are starting to feel better. They ached for two solid days. And, to quote Peter McDonald, one of James Patterson's characters, today "...everything was copacetic…" (1)

Thanks for reading about my build of this table!

(1) The Season of the Machete, Page 75, James Patterson, 1980

.

Al, this is looking good so far. I really enjoy seeing a step-wise construction post, like you are doing with this project. It conveys a lot of information that is simply inferred when looking at only a completed project post.

Nice job.

By the way I like the pad you have put on your clamps. I have been considering adding a cork liner to mine since I occasionally get red marks and surface marring on my projects from my clamps.

 

[AlNavas]

The full-size table: Gluing up the top

My thanks to all who read and looked at the beginning of the build of the full-size table.

Now I continue, with the glue-up of the boards that will make up the table top. The top will be 1-1/2 inches thick, 30 inches wide, and 60 inches long. At this stage the boards are a little thicker than 1-5/8".

From my blog:

After prepping the boards that will make up the table top, it is now time to glue them up. Due to their sheer size, I do this in stages, two boards at a time. Doing it this way removes much of the anxiety associated with large glue-ups.

I apply sufficient glue to get some squeeze out and, using several clamps while carefully lining up the edges as I go, I gradually start clamping down from the center toward the edges. When finished, I normally want a small bead of glue all along the glue line, on both sides of the boards being glued. I then wipe down much of the excess; and, when the remaining glue starts to gel, I scrape it off. The following photo shows one half of the table top immediately after tightening the last clamp; note the size of the glue bead I get:

Once I remove the bulk of the remaining glue I check for flatness, using a good straight edge; the two glue-ups I did today were perfectly flat - a pleasing result after the work that has gone into these so far.

No doubt, the nice flat surface is the result of spending the time with a hand plane to touch up the board edges, in preparation for the glue-up.

Next: I will glue the two sets of boards I glued up today. At that point the entire table top will be ready for sanding to final thickness. Since I don't have a machine that will take this huge slab, I will use a friend's wide belt sander. Later I will use another friend's slider to cut the top to final length on his table saw. I hope to document those two critical steps soon.

I think my newly-found muscles are starting to feel better. They ached for two solid days. And, to quote Peter McDonald, one of James Patterson's characters, today "...everything was copacetic…" (1)

Thanks for reading about my build of this table!

(1) The Season of the Machete, Page 75, James Patterson, 1980

.

Thanks, Scott!

You will like having the cork liner in place. It prevents marring critical surfaces - not needed for this glue-up, but really desirable for more delicate jobs.

I must find better tape to hold down the cork. The flimsy tape I had on hand when I did lined the clamp surfaces is starting to peel off a little, and can be a nuisance. Just need to make a short break to tape down the ends.

 

[AlNavas]

The top is ready for sanding

From my blog:

Whew!

Today was time to glue up the two halves of the table top. I trimmed each of the two halves on the table saw, using the crosscut sled. Leaving each half slightly over final length, I tackled the glue-up. Sandy came to the shop to lend a hand, as I did not want clamps moving and lumber falling to the floor.

Three hours late I removed the clamps, scraped the dry glue, and completed preparations for sanding tomorrow. I will drop off this panel at my friend's shop, and will wait for his call. He requested I write down final thickness, width, and length. I may not be able to share you this part of the job - but I hope to snap some photos of his shop.

Next: I will start milling the walnut legs, in preparation for glue-up; the legs will be 3 inches square, so I must mill two halves, and glue them to prepare the legs for final milling prior to machining the mortises on the FMT. I also have to mill some 4/4 (1-inch, rough) quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO), for the aprons; then to the FMT to machine the tenons.

I purchased gorgeous walnut and QSWO at Simpson & Sons, a large saw mill just South of town. The people at the mill go out of their way to help customers dropping in to buy one board, or a full truck load. Simpson has "… in stock walnut, maple, white oak, red oak, hickory, hackberry, red elm, and ash, and gun and rifle stock blanks. From 4/4 to 8/4 we have all your furniture grade needs. Planing is available on request. Stock lists and price lists are available by fax…"

 

[sbryan55]

The top is ready for sanding

From my blog:

Whew!

Today was time to glue up the two halves of the table top. I trimmed each of the two halves on the table saw, using the crosscut sled. Leaving each half slightly over final length, I tackled the glue-up. Sandy came to the shop to lend a hand, as I did not want clamps moving and lumber falling to the floor.

Three hours late I removed the clamps, scraped the dry glue, and completed preparations for sanding tomorrow. I will drop off this panel at my friend's shop, and will wait for his call. He requested I write down final thickness, width, and length. I may not be able to share you this part of the job - but I hope to snap some photos of his shop.

Next: I will start milling the walnut legs, in preparation for glue-up; the legs will be 3 inches square, so I must mill two halves, and glue them to prepare the legs for final milling prior to machining the mortises on the FMT. I also have to mill some 4/4 (1-inch, rough) quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO), for the aprons; then to the FMT to machine the tenons.

I purchased gorgeous walnut and QSWO at Simpson & Sons, a large saw mill just South of town. The people at the mill go out of their way to help customers dropping in to buy one board, or a full truck load. Simpson has "… in stock walnut, maple, white oak, red oak, hickory, hackberry, red elm, and ash, and gun and rifle stock blanks. From 4/4 to 8/4 we have all your furniture grade needs. Planing is available on request. Stock lists and price lists are available by fax…"

The top is coming along nicely. It is wonderful to have a resource such as Simpson and Sons available. I would love to have a supplier who not only is located close to home but also has such a wide selection of material. (And let's not forget to mention it is also nice to have a friend with a wide belt sander as well as a wife who doesn't mind pitching in).

Thanks for the update.

 

[JohnGray]

The top is ready for sanding

From my blog:

Whew!

Today was time to glue up the two halves of the table top. I trimmed each of the two halves on the table saw, using the crosscut sled. Leaving each half slightly over final length, I tackled the glue-up. Sandy came to the shop to lend a hand, as I did not want clamps moving and lumber falling to the floor.

Three hours late I removed the clamps, scraped the dry glue, and completed preparations for sanding tomorrow. I will drop off this panel at my friend's shop, and will wait for his call. He requested I write down final thickness, width, and length. I may not be able to share you this part of the job - but I hope to snap some photos of his shop.

Next: I will start milling the walnut legs, in preparation for glue-up; the legs will be 3 inches square, so I must mill two halves, and glue them to prepare the legs for final milling prior to machining the mortises on the FMT. I also have to mill some 4/4 (1-inch, rough) quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO), for the aprons; then to the FMT to machine the tenons.

I purchased gorgeous walnut and QSWO at Simpson & Sons, a large saw mill just South of town. The people at the mill go out of their way to help customers dropping in to buy one board, or a full truck load. Simpson has "… in stock walnut, maple, white oak, red oak, hickory, hackberry, red elm, and ash, and gun and rifle stock blanks. From 4/4 to 8/4 we have all your furniture grade needs. Planing is available on request. Stock lists and price lists are available by fax…"

Lookin' GREAT.

 

[AlNavas]

The top is ready for finish

From my blog:

Progress!

The table top is back, cut to final length, and sanded (sorry, no chance to take photos of my friend's amazing shop).

I beveled the edges, using a table edge bit for the topside, and a small, 1/8-inch roundover for the bottom side. Routing the top bevel free-hand requires much care and concentration, as this bit is large:

The bevel profile:

I am very pleased with the overall appearance of this table top. The bevel will provide a much better feel on the arms than a normal table edge:

Hopefully you will get a sense of the size of this router bit. The router base plate is one of two that came with my DeWalt 618, and has the largest opening - the bit's cutting diameter is 2-1/2 inches:

To use such a large-diameter bit one must reduce the router speed to around 10,000-12,000 RPM. In addition, I suggest shallow cuts. I took four passes to route the entire profile.

Now the table is ready for the first coast of Zinsser's Seal Coat. I will apply using a lint-free rag. This results in application of a very thin film of shellac on the oak.

Now, some neat stuff about finishing oak with waterborne coatings - and the reason you pay to access my blog (just kidding…!):

1. White oak, and especially red oak, have high tannin content. White oak may or may not be marginal. This high tannin content makes them acidic.
2. The typical waterborne coatings are very high pH, typically pH 10 or higher.
3. Applying the typical waterborne coating directly on the surface of the oak can cause nasty reactions. For example, it is possible to get bridging and pinholing.
4. Therefore, a work-around is needed.
5. Enter: Zinsser's Seal Coat dewaxed shellac. I apply two very thin coats using a lint-free cloth. I allow it to fry for two hours, sand between coats to 320 grit, and then apply my waterborne coating.
6. For this table I will use Target Coatings' new Emtech 2000wvx alkyd.
7. My client liked the finish on the half-scale tables. As a result, I will use the same finish, and apply 4 coats minimum , using a Fuji Q3 Pro HVLP system.
8. The EM200wvx imparts a very nice straw color to the white oak. And it looks great on walnut (the legs of this table).

Related posts:

The full-size table is ready for sanding

The full-size table: Gluing up the top

The full-size table: The beginning

My entry in the Lumberjocks Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards

Thanks for reading, and following along this build!

Al

 

[sbryan55]

The top is ready for finish

From my blog:

Progress!

The table top is back, cut to final length, and sanded (sorry, no chance to take photos of my friend's amazing shop).

I beveled the edges, using a table edge bit for the topside, and a small, 1/8-inch roundover for the bottom side. Routing the top bevel free-hand requires much care and concentration, as this bit is large:

The bevel profile:

I am very pleased with the overall appearance of this table top. The bevel will provide a much better feel on the arms than a normal table edge:

Hopefully you will get a sense of the size of this router bit. The router base plate is one of two that came with my DeWalt 618, and has the largest opening - the bit's cutting diameter is 2-1/2 inches:

To use such a large-diameter bit one must reduce the router speed to around 10,000-12,000 RPM. In addition, I suggest shallow cuts. I took four passes to route the entire profile.

Now the table is ready for the first coast of Zinsser's Seal Coat. I will apply using a lint-free rag. This results in application of a very thin film of shellac on the oak.

Now, some neat stuff about finishing oak with waterborne coatings - and the reason you pay to access my blog (just kidding…!):

1. White oak, and especially red oak, have high tannin content. White oak may or may not be marginal. This high tannin content makes them acidic.
2. The typical waterborne coatings are very high pH, typically pH 10 or higher.
3. Applying the typical waterborne coating directly on the surface of the oak can cause nasty reactions. For example, it is possible to get bridging and pinholing.
4. Therefore, a work-around is needed.
5. Enter: Zinsser's Seal Coat dewaxed shellac. I apply two very thin coats using a lint-free cloth. I allow it to fry for two hours, sand between coats to 320 grit, and then apply my waterborne coating.
6. For this table I will use Target Coatings' new Emtech 2000wvx alkyd.
7. My client liked the finish on the half-scale tables. As a result, I will use the same finish, and apply 4 coats minimum , using a Fuji Q3 Pro HVLP system.
8. The EM200wvx imparts a very nice straw color to the white oak. And it looks great on walnut (the legs of this table).

Related posts:

The full-size table is ready for sanding

The full-size table: Gluing up the top

The full-size table: The beginning

My entry in the Lumberjocks Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards

Thanks for reading, and following along this build!

Al

Nice job on the top, Al. It looks good and it certainly pays to have a friend with a wide belt sander. You could have done it yourself but, in all likelihood, you would still be sanding.

 

[AlNavas]

The top is ready for finish

From my blog:

Progress!

The table top is back, cut to final length, and sanded (sorry, no chance to take photos of my friend's amazing shop).

I beveled the edges, using a table edge bit for the topside, and a small, 1/8-inch roundover for the bottom side. Routing the top bevel free-hand requires much care and concentration, as this bit is large:

The bevel profile:

I am very pleased with the overall appearance of this table top. The bevel will provide a much better feel on the arms than a normal table edge:

Hopefully you will get a sense of the size of this router bit. The router base plate is one of two that came with my DeWalt 618, and has the largest opening - the bit's cutting diameter is 2-1/2 inches:

To use such a large-diameter bit one must reduce the router speed to around 10,000-12,000 RPM. In addition, I suggest shallow cuts. I took four passes to route the entire profile.

Now the table is ready for the first coast of Zinsser's Seal Coat. I will apply using a lint-free rag. This results in application of a very thin film of shellac on the oak.

Now, some neat stuff about finishing oak with waterborne coatings - and the reason you pay to access my blog (just kidding…!):

1. White oak, and especially red oak, have high tannin content. White oak may or may not be marginal. This high tannin content makes them acidic.
2. The typical waterborne coatings are very high pH, typically pH 10 or higher.
3. Applying the typical waterborne coating directly on the surface of the oak can cause nasty reactions. For example, it is possible to get bridging and pinholing.
4. Therefore, a work-around is needed.
5. Enter: Zinsser's Seal Coat dewaxed shellac. I apply two very thin coats using a lint-free cloth. I allow it to fry for two hours, sand between coats to 320 grit, and then apply my waterborne coating.
6. For this table I will use Target Coatings' new Emtech 2000wvx alkyd.
7. My client liked the finish on the half-scale tables. As a result, I will use the same finish, and apply 4 coats minimum , using a Fuji Q3 Pro HVLP system.
8. The EM200wvx imparts a very nice straw color to the white oak. And it looks great on walnut (the legs of this table).

Related posts:

The full-size table is ready for sanding

The full-size table: Gluing up the top

The full-size table: The beginning

My entry in the Lumberjocks Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards

Thanks for reading, and following along this build!

Al

Thanks, Scott. I am glad I let the big sander handle this one.

 

[AlNavas]

Glue-ups, surface flatness, anxiety, and 100X-200X magnification

On a previous post, on another forum, my friend rhino commented that removing the glue prematurely will lead to starving of the glue line.

He was right, of course. nd I have photo evidence. Please read on.

From my blog:

I truly must stop reading Christopher Schwarz's blog. First, it cost me $20 for the first copy of the EyeClops. Once I learned what a terrific "toy" it is, I bought another one (this one for $28, as the price went up) for use by our granddaughters.

But now I am glad I bought two copies of this very special toy!

Recent discussion on glue-ups, particularly the table top I have been working on, highlighted to me why it is important to wait to clean the glue until it has gelled well. If one rushes to clean, as I did due to anxiety (to measure table top flatness), the glue line is starved near the surface, as it shrinks.

This first photo shows what the glue line should look like, if one waits:

But, by cleaning the glue at the glue line, voids in the glue line develop - the glue shrinks as it dries and cures:

My woodworking friend "rhino", on this thread on WoodNet, was 100% correct. Of course, I knew this was likely to happen, but anxiety does funny things in the heat of a critical glue-up.

While the EyeClops was in the shop I looked at other features on the table top surface. This one is a small crater, part of a tiny knot near one of the ends of the top:

The side grain on the quarter-sawn white oak looks like this:

Focusing is critical using the EyeClops. And it requires a steady hand, to get good photos. But, once this is learned, it is very easy to use:

Chris, thanks for finding this little treasure!

Al

 

[sbryan55]

Glue-ups, surface flatness, anxiety, and 100X-200X magnification

On a previous post, on another forum, my friend rhino commented that removing the glue prematurely will lead to starving of the glue line.

He was right, of course. nd I have photo evidence. Please read on.

From my blog:

I truly must stop reading Christopher Schwarz's blog. First, it cost me $20 for the first copy of the EyeClops. Once I learned what a terrific "toy" it is, I bought another one (this one for $28, as the price went up) for use by our granddaughters.

But now I am glad I bought two copies of this very special toy!

Recent discussion on glue-ups, particularly the table top I have been working on, highlighted to me why it is important to wait to clean the glue until it has gelled well. If one rushes to clean, as I did due to anxiety (to measure table top flatness), the glue line is starved near the surface, as it shrinks.

This first photo shows what the glue line should look like, if one waits:

But, by cleaning the glue at the glue line, voids in the glue line develop - the glue shrinks as it dries and cures:

My woodworking friend "rhino", on this thread on WoodNet, was 100% correct. Of course, I knew this was likely to happen, but anxiety does funny things in the heat of a critical glue-up.

While the EyeClops was in the shop I looked at other features on the table top surface. This one is a small crater, part of a tiny knot near one of the ends of the top:

The side grain on the quarter-sawn white oak looks like this:

Focusing is critical using the EyeClops. And it requires a steady hand, to get good photos. But, once this is learned, it is very easy to use:

Chris, thanks for finding this little treasure!

Al

That is an interesting tool. I will have to look into one of these.

But at the same time does the void really have any impact on the build? It is not going to run that deep in terms of the overall depth of the top and, if you have to magnify it 100x to see it, you are not going to be able to see it with the naked eye or feel it. If it is necessary to fill then a little additional CA glue and sanding dust should eliminate the void.

 

[AlNavas]

Glue-ups, surface flatness, anxiety, and 100X-200X magnification

On a previous post, on another forum, my friend rhino commented that removing the glue prematurely will lead to starving of the glue line.

He was right, of course. nd I have photo evidence. Please read on.

From my blog:

I truly must stop reading Christopher Schwarz's blog. First, it cost me $20 for the first copy of the EyeClops. Once I learned what a terrific "toy" it is, I bought another one (this one for $28, as the price went up) for use by our granddaughters.

But now I am glad I bought two copies of this very special toy!

Recent discussion on glue-ups, particularly the table top I have been working on, highlighted to me why it is important to wait to clean the glue until it has gelled well. If one rushes to clean, as I did due to anxiety (to measure table top flatness), the glue line is starved near the surface, as it shrinks.

This first photo shows what the glue line should look like, if one waits:

But, by cleaning the glue at the glue line, voids in the glue line develop - the glue shrinks as it dries and cures:

My woodworking friend "rhino", on this thread on WoodNet, was 100% correct. Of course, I knew this was likely to happen, but anxiety does funny things in the heat of a critical glue-up.

While the EyeClops was in the shop I looked at other features on the table top surface. This one is a small crater, part of a tiny knot near one of the ends of the top:

The side grain on the quarter-sawn white oak looks like this:

Focusing is critical using the EyeClops. And it requires a steady hand, to get good photos. But, once this is learned, it is very easy to use:

Chris, thanks for finding this little treasure!

Al

You are right, Scott - in this case, it did not matter one iota.

But our friend rhino, on WoodNet, relates a different experience. He was too aggressive in removing the glue, and the finish was not able to fill in properly. I believe it is best to wait until the glue gels a somewhat, regardless.

 

[sbryan55]

Glue-ups, surface flatness, anxiety, and 100X-200X magnification

On a previous post, on another forum, my friend rhino commented that removing the glue prematurely will lead to starving of the glue line.

He was right, of course. nd I have photo evidence. Please read on.

From my blog:

I truly must stop reading Christopher Schwarz's blog. First, it cost me $20 for the first copy of the EyeClops. Once I learned what a terrific "toy" it is, I bought another one (this one for $28, as the price went up) for use by our granddaughters.

But now I am glad I bought two copies of this very special toy!

Recent discussion on glue-ups, particularly the table top I have been working on, highlighted to me why it is important to wait to clean the glue until it has gelled well. If one rushes to clean, as I did due to anxiety (to measure table top flatness), the glue line is starved near the surface, as it shrinks.

This first photo shows what the glue line should look like, if one waits:

But, by cleaning the glue at the glue line, voids in the glue line develop - the glue shrinks as it dries and cures:

My woodworking friend "rhino", on this thread on WoodNet, was 100% correct. Of course, I knew this was likely to happen, but anxiety does funny things in the heat of a critical glue-up.

While the EyeClops was in the shop I looked at other features on the table top surface. This one is a small crater, part of a tiny knot near one of the ends of the top:

The side grain on the quarter-sawn white oak looks like this:

Focusing is critical using the EyeClops. And it requires a steady hand, to get good photos. But, once this is learned, it is very easy to use:

Chris, thanks for finding this little treasure!

Al

I have become a convert to that method of glue removal. I used to think that it had to be removed immediately (I am sure this idea came from following Norm Abram's routines). But letting it gel up is, at least in my opinion, a much better option.

But it does look like the Eyeclops is pretty cool. I may have to look into getting one of these.