[dbhost]

Slappin' mayo on a sandwich. A.K.A. wood glue woes...

Okay the title is stupid, bear with me a few moments please…

My journey back into the shop after a few years due to a variety of issues, some admittedly I will refer to as emotional, just couldn't get my stuff together after going through a year of extreme loss. If you are a rock and roll fan, think of the year Neal Peart had in I think it was 1997, and multiply that by about 10 times… , Maybe not quite so close, but pretty close…

Anyway the other issue has been continued degeneration of my spine due to heredity, honestly my weight, and traumatic injury.

I need to stay active, while avoiding picking up, and twising with heavy things.

Thus the tool stacker tool organizer I had used for the past decade and a half was no longer going to cut the mustard, huh, another condiment reference. Maybe I'm ready for dinner?

Anyway, I decided to salvage the 18×24 3/4 plywood boards the tools are mounted on, and design / build some flip top tool stands. Very basic design. 2×4 side frames with half lap joinery, which honestly was too quickly and sloppily, but effectively done at the bandsaw, too many screws, and a bit pf plyywood.

The tool mounts / rotating assembly would be a sandwich of sorts of the 2 tool mount boards with a sandwich of 3/4" plywood in between. A piece of 1/2" ID PVC acts as a bushing and 1/2" all thread as a retainer and axle, but I am getting ahead of myself…

So to keep the bolts for the machines from turning in their recesses, I had to back fill them. And I didn't have enough epoxy. So I did the next best thing. I grabbed into the dust bag for the DC, and the glue bottle and created a, well… wood filler of sawdust and glue to create a void filler of sorts. Let it cure up, sanded it down, and then went to town on the glue up.

So between the sandwich pieces, or rotating assembly pieces, including the bolt head recesses, I managed to go through about 2/3 of a 32oz bottle of Gorilla wood glue.

Now mind you I am using Gorilla because I couldn't get Titebond II, which is NOW back in stock… But something I wanted to mention…

Is it just me, or does Gorilla wood glue spread on thicker than Titebond? I just can not skim a thin layer and feel confident I actually have glue there!

Also working time with GG wood glue is WAY shrot compared to Titebond II…

I am going back to Home Depot this weekend and buying another gallon of TB II!

 

[HowardAppel]

Slappin' mayo on a sandwich. A.K.A. wood glue woes...

Okay the title is stupid, bear with me a few moments please…

My journey back into the shop after a few years due to a variety of issues, some admittedly I will refer to as emotional, just couldn't get my stuff together after going through a year of extreme loss. If you are a rock and roll fan, think of the year Neal Peart had in I think it was 1997, and multiply that by about 10 times… , Maybe not quite so close, but pretty close…

Anyway the other issue has been continued degeneration of my spine due to heredity, honestly my weight, and traumatic injury.

I need to stay active, while avoiding picking up, and twising with heavy things.

Thus the tool stacker tool organizer I had used for the past decade and a half was no longer going to cut the mustard, huh, another condiment reference. Maybe I'm ready for dinner?

Anyway, I decided to salvage the 18×24 3/4 plywood boards the tools are mounted on, and design / build some flip top tool stands. Very basic design. 2×4 side frames with half lap joinery, which honestly was too quickly and sloppily, but effectively done at the bandsaw, too many screws, and a bit pf plyywood.

The tool mounts / rotating assembly would be a sandwich of sorts of the 2 tool mount boards with a sandwich of 3/4" plywood in between. A piece of 1/2" ID PVC acts as a bushing and 1/2" all thread as a retainer and axle, but I am getting ahead of myself…

So to keep the bolts for the machines from turning in their recesses, I had to back fill them. And I didn't have enough epoxy. So I did the next best thing. I grabbed into the dust bag for the DC, and the glue bottle and created a, well… wood filler of sawdust and glue to create a void filler of sorts. Let it cure up, sanded it down, and then went to town on the glue up.

So between the sandwich pieces, or rotating assembly pieces, including the bolt head recesses, I managed to go through about 2/3 of a 32oz bottle of Gorilla wood glue.

Now mind you I am using Gorilla because I couldn't get Titebond II, which is NOW back in stock… But something I wanted to mention…

Is it just me, or does Gorilla wood glue spread on thicker than Titebond? I just can not skim a thin layer and feel confident I actually have glue there!

Also working time with GG wood glue is WAY shrot compared to Titebond II…

I am going back to Home Depot this weekend and buying another gallon of TB II!

As a fellow orthopedic sufferer (two knee replacements, C4-5-6 fusion, L1-5 laminectomy, and semi-annual radiotherapy, so far), I sympathize. I also have really good drugs.

Not a big fan of Gorilla Glue. Keep fighting and stay safe my friend.

 

[dbhost]

Slappin' mayo on a sandwich. A.K.A. wood glue woes...

Okay the title is stupid, bear with me a few moments please…

My journey back into the shop after a few years due to a variety of issues, some admittedly I will refer to as emotional, just couldn't get my stuff together after going through a year of extreme loss. If you are a rock and roll fan, think of the year Neal Peart had in I think it was 1997, and multiply that by about 10 times… , Maybe not quite so close, but pretty close…

Anyway the other issue has been continued degeneration of my spine due to heredity, honestly my weight, and traumatic injury.

I need to stay active, while avoiding picking up, and twising with heavy things.

Thus the tool stacker tool organizer I had used for the past decade and a half was no longer going to cut the mustard, huh, another condiment reference. Maybe I'm ready for dinner?

Anyway, I decided to salvage the 18×24 3/4 plywood boards the tools are mounted on, and design / build some flip top tool stands. Very basic design. 2×4 side frames with half lap joinery, which honestly was too quickly and sloppily, but effectively done at the bandsaw, too many screws, and a bit pf plyywood.

The tool mounts / rotating assembly would be a sandwich of sorts of the 2 tool mount boards with a sandwich of 3/4" plywood in between. A piece of 1/2" ID PVC acts as a bushing and 1/2" all thread as a retainer and axle, but I am getting ahead of myself…

So to keep the bolts for the machines from turning in their recesses, I had to back fill them. And I didn't have enough epoxy. So I did the next best thing. I grabbed into the dust bag for the DC, and the glue bottle and created a, well… wood filler of sawdust and glue to create a void filler of sorts. Let it cure up, sanded it down, and then went to town on the glue up.

So between the sandwich pieces, or rotating assembly pieces, including the bolt head recesses, I managed to go through about 2/3 of a 32oz bottle of Gorilla wood glue.

Now mind you I am using Gorilla because I couldn't get Titebond II, which is NOW back in stock… But something I wanted to mention…

Is it just me, or does Gorilla wood glue spread on thicker than Titebond? I just can not skim a thin layer and feel confident I actually have glue there!

Also working time with GG wood glue is WAY shrot compared to Titebond II…

I am going back to Home Depot this weekend and buying another gallon of TB II!

Okay you are making me feel good about my little L2-5 degeneration and bad tendons / sciatica.

Getting older is NOT for wimps that's for sure!

The flip top stand is my solution, I hope to the lift / twist problem that bench top tools provide for the most part. I have 5 bench top tools at this time.

Flip top stand #1. The one I am currently working on as this is the heavy stuff.
#1. Sunhill SM150B 6-1/8" jointer. I know people fuss but it works well.
#2. Ryobi AP1301 13" planer. This was a valentines day gift from my wife, so not gonna upgrade until it smokes…

Flip top stand #2 will require more onboard storage for accessories, so it will wait a bit, mostly until I get more 2×4s and plywood… I am going to make this one with a begboard inset so I can use pegboard baskets on the side for holding teh accessories…
#3. Rigid oscillating edge belt / spindle sander EB4424
#4. Model number unknown, but old $25.00 Criagslist find Dremel 16" scroll saw that I next to never use

And on its own stand immediately to the left of the lathe..
#5. Ryobi 8" bench grinder with white oxide wheels, and Wolverine jig. I know everyone says get a low speed grinder, OneWay MFG recommended a full speed grinder when I set it up originally..

So yeah, trying to limit impact to the back. Oh and I have added those interlocking kids playroom squares as anti fatigue mats and they are a total blessing!

 

[dbhost]

The green monster flip top tool stand video demo.

For your perusal, the requested demo video of the flip top tool stand I just finished building from shop scraps.

Sorry, not sure how to embed video here…

The sites listed in Lumberjocks search to create the working embed links are no longer working.

 

[dbhost]

I've been busy fixing mistakes, and making adjustments.

So my shop needed a LOT of cleaning, and a bit of reconfiguration / adjustment.

Since day 1 even before I got any woodworking tools to speak of, I had the automotive stuff, and always wanted a plumbed compressed air system. I have the compressor, and had it plumbed, such as it was with a HF regulator / dryer / filter assembly, with ganged / dual compressor inputs / one way valves to prevent problems / feedback of pressure to the opposing compressor, yes I run 2 compressors when I just need more CFM, and out to dual outlets, a quick connect, and up and over, previously using hoses, to a Harbor Freight auto retracting hose reel.

Well for Christmas my lovely bride stepped into Santas boots and got me a Rapidaire knockoff system, and the misc parts to make it all come together as the bits and bobs were more or less on Black Friday sale, and, well budgets and all…

So I now have a 1/2" OD tubing plumbing system, set up with proper 3/8" MPT Milton Type V / M / A couplers, and full flow through the 3/8" ID at least not counting the air hose reel which is limited by the 1/4" MPT fittings for it and the hose, via 3/8" MPT x 1/2" push to connect fittings, and 2 of the outlet blocks with 3/8" dump valves, one block on each side of the right side overhead shop door.

The overhead hose reel got moved as well to between my overhead doors, and unlike MOST garages, mine is REALLY tight space wise up there, I had to be VERY careful with plumbing routing to avoid the air plumbing for the hose reel interfering with the door, or vice versa…

So that is done.

I am upgrading my DC ducting from 4" end to end. Well let me explain.

I had previously run a 55 gallon Thien side inlet separator. with 5" inlet and outlet The outlet was then conected to the OE HF 5×4x4 splitter which I have since accidentally broken. At least that was until I added a Wen impeller to my HF 2HP DC, and did some measurements of CFM with / without the separator, and discovered the CFM drop the separator caused. Out the Thien went, and instead I opted for a neutral vane as recommended by Bill Pentz' research documentation. The Neutral Vane is not quite as effective as the Thien separator, but a quick blowdown of the filter after use and anything that gets up to the filter gets knocked back down. And no performance hit that I can measure.

Well continuing with the research, I decided 6" mains were too big IMHO for a 2HP blower and yes there are a LOT of folks that will disagree. That's fine, but I am going for it anyway.

Well that means I have to tear out my old 4" mains, I am still going to use 4" branches though.

Well since shipping said my 5" stuff was supposed to be here already, I tore down / opened up the existing system, and wouldn't you know it, late delivery, and I needed to get stuff done… So right now my DC ducting is half apart, waiting for parts, and honestly the rest of the disassembly… Bleh… I basically have to make magic happen but in the mean time…

I already built one 2×4 and plywood flip top tool stand, and learned some lessons about what NOT to do, as in do not cut half laps on the band saw and expect them to be any good…

Well I am now in the building phase of stand #2. The side assemblies are in glue, and the weather is cold, so I have one of those oil filled radiator heaters turned on in the shop keeping it in the lower / mid 60s so the glue will set properly.

Tomorrow once the glue has cured fully, so after work not during my lunchtime, I am going to route a rabbet on the inside edge of one of the side panels. I am going to use that rabbet to accept a panel of pegboard. The pegboard will hold a couple of pegboard baskets for the bits and bobs as it were for the Rigid oscillating sander.

The entire purpose of these flip top stands is twofold. #1. Prevent me from having to haul them up / down and twist with something heavy every time I need to perform some operation with bench top tool X, Y, or Z…

The secondary purpose is for a potential move to a dedicated shed workshop will allow me to reconfigure the workspace, or move the work outdoors quickly if need be.

My old T12 flourescent lights were starting to eat tubes, the ballasts were going out, and I sure as sin wasn't going to replace flourescent ballasts! So I found a good option in T12 / T8 compatible double ended LED ballast bypass tubes on Amazon on a dirt cheap deal. The install went quickly on 7 fixtures and the amount of light they produce is insanely bright. I couldn't possibly be happier with the product with the exception of one tube, which Amazon gladly refunded quickly….

I personally do NOT like the purpose built LED fixtures, probably just me being old school, I KNOW the LEDs don't need a reflector, but I like the look, AND a reflector does partially provide a bit of tube protection and in a workshop tube protection is a very valuable thing!

 

[dbhost]

HF 2HP DC mods and 5 inch mains.

Anyone that has followed my forum participation over the years knows I am a bang for the buck sort of guy, and really not a big fan of the idea that you need to spend maximum funds before you can gain any sort of entry into whatever pursuit it is unless of course you are just aiming for status symbols.

In that vein I started out over a decade ago with a Harbor Freight 2HP dust collector, that I knew better than to try to run it with the stock filter bag, and added a Wynn cartridge filter for proper filtration. I ran it for a long time with a 55 gallon Thien separator, a 5" side inlet in a plastic barrel. It did a great job but really reduced the effectiveness of the dust collection itself, and was a nuisance trying to emtpy etc…

I had originally ducted my shop with 4" Sewer and Drain PVC piping, and a series of 4" full flow aluminum blast gates, from Peachtree USA if I remember back then correctly… Might have been Woodcraft who knows?

So after research, talking to other users etc… I made over the past few months some updates to my system to get the most out of it.

First off, the giant, heavy, hard to empty separator had to go. I fabricated and isntalled a Neutral Vane into the separator ring of the dust collector just under the cone, which allegedly gives and keeps a cycloninc action under the cone acting somewhat like a Thien separator, lots of the same concepts except no baffle to prevent scrubbing. Time will tell on that.

Secondly I learned early on of the pitifully small diameter impeller that was used in the Central Machinery 2HP dust collector. After looking at options, It appears that the Wen 3403 2HP dust collector, that has a full size but vanes going the opposite direction impeller on more or less the same motor, and with further research found the part number 3403-22 Turbofan, and the website to order it from, at around $35.00 delivered. All well and good. And the swap was easy as pie. Although I have heard of some issues with impeller flanges on the OE impellers on the newer gray models breaking off while pulling, no issue on my old green one….

Now the DC itself is modded, and now flows enough CFM that I cannot measure it with my anemometer. But I have a cheap anemometer, and what I can measure, if the losses through the Thien when temporarily put back in place, are as people state, I am pulling roughly 1400CFM, I will not make that claim though, I just don't know, lack the ability to test at the inlet.

HOWEVER, to get as full as possible flow from the end points, to the DC, I decided to pull out as much as possible of that 4" sewer and drain PVC, and run 5" snap lock duct, using what 5" fittings I can source up, mostly ABS pieces honestly intended for hose connections, pop rivets, and foil tape to make my connections.

I had a LOT of conversations trying to decide between 5 inch, and 6 inch. And it all boiled down to, 6 inch was pushing beyond really what the HF DC was capable of handling, and really would have been a barely passable solution, at least from the general consensus I can determine, with the HF DC if I had the intention to replace it with a 3HP or greater DC at some point, which I honestly don't.

5" however is a VERY strange size for dust collection, and if anything is a tiny bit small for the HF 2HP DC. But we don't have 5.5" ducting and fittings available, and i don't have a giant scale 3D printer to make them… So I went with what I felt was best in my situation. LOTS of people run the HF DC on 6" and it works well for them. I just wasn't comfortable pushing that far…

My mains are run 36" from the floor along the tool wall, and then up to and accross the ceiling to get overhead of the table saw, with a 4" table saw upper run, and a 4" run that goes right under the table saw / workbench top split off of the 5" at the router table wing / workbench end… Yes it poses a potential issue, I will work around it…

Anyway, some things I found out…

#1. My angle grinder, and Harbor Freight cutoff wheels are my best friends for cutting, quickly and at least somewhat cleanly, effectively nipples, or more like sleeves of 5" snaop lock to use as collars to connect the 5" ABS pieces.
#2. Just like the angle grinder, my cheap HF riveter, and box o rivets came in REALLY handy for making secure connections between pieces instead of using screws. Nothing for stringy stuff to snag on.
#3. The male / female connection ends are oriented backwards as it were, male / crimped ends of the sheet metal pieces pointed toward the DC to facilitate smoothest air flow.
#4. Crimped ends were hammered as smooth as needed to be in order to get them to slip over the ABS fittings.
#5. The best prices on components I used for the ducting were, Woodcraft for the Wood River 5" branch wyes at $13.00 each. Grizzly for the 5×4 cone reducers for $2.50 each, Home Depot for 5' joints of 5" snap lock duct for $10.98 each, and Home Depot for 5" adjustable sheet metal elbows for $4.98 each. Oh andI know I spent more but I bought the foil tape at Home Depot. Amazon had the same spool for $2.00 less, but if I order just that one item they delayed shipping for something stupid like 2 weeks. So Amazon lost that sale…

Where dust has to be pulled UP, or at the last leg to the machine, the duct size is dropped to 4" to increase velocity over volume, and then in the horizontals or where the dust / airflow goes DOWN it is all 5". I simply ran out of 5" ducting before i could make the last run to the miter saw bench. I think…

Anyway, here are the photos…

A straight on view of ABS branch wyes to show the difference in actual interior volume. A 4" x 2.5" next to a 5"x5" branch wye. Mathematically I believe there is a more than 50% increase in surface area of the opening.

The connection from the dust collector, where it veers over to meet the wall since the inlet is on the wrong side for my DC placement.

The first branches. The first wye shoots up the wall to the ceiling, where the duct goes over to the table saw and workbench, the second wye feeds the 5×4x4 that is used at the band saw picking up from the dual 2.5s under the table and a single 4" above. The 4" can be closed off independently from the 2.5s in case it is not needed. This uses a 5" and a 4" blast gate.

A bit further down, and out from behind the water softener I am forced to share shop space with, I have another branch wye, with a 4" reducer. This connection has since this pic been "sleeved" and was the connection that convinced me sleeving was necessary. Live and learn. This gives dust collection to my bench top tools on the flip top stands.

Another one of the branch wyes, and the last one on the lower run, is at the lathe, The lower branch pulls from the lathe via a shop made hood for turning, the other uses a too long hose to collect from the drill press. Still working on that… And yes, those joints have since been sleeved with 5" cutoffs, rivets and tape to seal it up.

And the overhead run goes diagonally accross to make the turn to the table saw and bench.

At the workbench a 4" sewer and drain drop was rigged, to drop, and run under the workbench. table top, and is attached to the workbench.

Lastly at the table saw, we drop with a 4" to provide dust collection to the Shark Guard blade guard, a port temporarily blocked off due to indecision provides for future access to go accross to the miter saw bench with 4" although I am consiering upsizing that.

 

[dbhost]

Making up for lost time. Shop improvement projects.

Those that are on my friends list know I laid low here, and honestly in the shop for 4, almost 5 years as I had some life struggles with the family. and then with me dealing with it. Simply put starting in 2016 close family members started ending up hospitalized, which wound up in 2018 my wife being long term hospitalized with stress related cardiac issues, and the two of us enduring the loss of 20 friends and family, both our Dads, one of her brothers, aunts, a niece etc…

I just wasn't there for a long time. But last fall I guess I kind of clicked back into place…

In the interim the shop suffered neglect, and honestly a bunhc of long term projects that just got put on hold.

Well again, something clicked back in place and it was time to get back with it.

So I now present to you a pictoral of the various projects and upgrades I have done to the shop and its equipment since about October of 2021.

I know I have shown the Harbor Freight dust collector fitted with the Wynn filter and the neutral vane is going to be VERY hard to photograph, but here is the Wen impeller during the install process. The install went super easy and was well worth the few bucks and little bit of time it took. What a HUGE difference in dust collector performance. No it is not in ClearVue territory but it picks up where the prior setup left a lot behind…

Next I installed the compressed air piping system that I got as a Christmas present. The manifold setup and filter / regulator / oil and water separators I have had for a while. The regulator diaphragm sprung a leak and sounded like a whoopie cushion, I found a replacement that works so I am keeping the Central Pnuematic regualtor / filter in place as it works well.

I also swapped out any fittings in the system that had 1/4" ID, and swapped in 3/8" ID for improved airflow, this meant swapping from Central Pnuematic fittings to Miltons. Worthwhile, but pricey… For now I have 2 of these outlet blocks. The only place I didn't upsize is because I couldn't, and that was at my Central Pnuematic hose reel.

While I did the install of the piping system, I moved the Central Pneumatic hose reel to the space between the overhead door tracks

I also converted all of the formerly T12 flourescent fixtures to LED ballast bypass tubes.

Also a larger project was the conversion from 4" dual runs to a single 5" main and 4" drops, this is resulting in a much better running system. Not sure how much of that is due to the Wen impeller or removal of the 55 gallon side inlet Thien separator though..

I resized to fit one of my sister in laws pullout spice drawers after she had to redo her kitchen due to Hurricane Harvey, this went under the extension wing of the BT3100 and serves to house my table saw accessories, jigs, and safety items like push blocks etc…

The band saw recieved its long awaited upgrades. out went the Cool Blocks, in went the Accura roller bearing guides for a MUCH smoother and more stable operation. The upper guide holder for the Accura that houses the micro adjuster for the thrust bearing did NOT fit the Central Machinery band saw, but the yoke that holds the side bearings is a direct fit replacement for the yoke that holds the blocks, so that is how I handled the upper guide. Lower was a direct drop in. The MLCS safety power switch was installed and located on the post, which happened to be drilled perfectly for the mounting screws. I sacrificed an outdoor extension cord to get a sufficient cord for the task at hand. The lower factory dust port was replaced with a larger Jet 2.5" port, and an additional 2.5" port was added to the lower shroud, urethane tires were added but not pictured here, and of course the Kreg Precision Fence has been installed and tested…

And as Heaven as my witness, I have no clue where that miter gauge came from, but it can probably crawl back where it came from….

Of course the previous mods of the G0555 tensioner, riser block, wheel brush etc… are still there…

The drawers and support tables / production stop rig for the miter saw bench / mortiser bench has been done, and now in use… Some minor adjustment to the right side table to get it to line up correctly with the mortiser as the table is 1/16 proud of hte mortiser table. Looks like honestly the mortiser needs to come up…

The wall stacker was killing my back and making me not want to spend shop time working with my equipment, so I built this pair of flip top stands for my bench top tools

And if I have it right, this should be last for now, which was the sharpening station.

 

[Redoak49]

Making up for lost time. Shop improvement projects.

Those that are on my friends list know I laid low here, and honestly in the shop for 4, almost 5 years as I had some life struggles with the family. and then with me dealing with it. Simply put starting in 2016 close family members started ending up hospitalized, which wound up in 2018 my wife being long term hospitalized with stress related cardiac issues, and the two of us enduring the loss of 20 friends and family, both our Dads, one of her brothers, aunts, a niece etc…

I just wasn't there for a long time. But last fall I guess I kind of clicked back into place…

In the interim the shop suffered neglect, and honestly a bunhc of long term projects that just got put on hold.

Well again, something clicked back in place and it was time to get back with it.

So I now present to you a pictoral of the various projects and upgrades I have done to the shop and its equipment since about October of 2021.

I know I have shown the Harbor Freight dust collector fitted with the Wynn filter and the neutral vane is going to be VERY hard to photograph, but here is the Wen impeller during the install process. The install went super easy and was well worth the few bucks and little bit of time it took. What a HUGE difference in dust collector performance. No it is not in ClearVue territory but it picks up where the prior setup left a lot behind…

Next I installed the compressed air piping system that I got as a Christmas present. The manifold setup and filter / regulator / oil and water separators I have had for a while. The regulator diaphragm sprung a leak and sounded like a whoopie cushion, I found a replacement that works so I am keeping the Central Pnuematic regualtor / filter in place as it works well.

I also swapped out any fittings in the system that had 1/4" ID, and swapped in 3/8" ID for improved airflow, this meant swapping from Central Pnuematic fittings to Miltons. Worthwhile, but pricey… For now I have 2 of these outlet blocks. The only place I didn't upsize is because I couldn't, and that was at my Central Pnuematic hose reel.

While I did the install of the piping system, I moved the Central Pneumatic hose reel to the space between the overhead door tracks

I also converted all of the formerly T12 flourescent fixtures to LED ballast bypass tubes.

Also a larger project was the conversion from 4" dual runs to a single 5" main and 4" drops, this is resulting in a much better running system. Not sure how much of that is due to the Wen impeller or removal of the 55 gallon side inlet Thien separator though..

I resized to fit one of my sister in laws pullout spice drawers after she had to redo her kitchen due to Hurricane Harvey, this went under the extension wing of the BT3100 and serves to house my table saw accessories, jigs, and safety items like push blocks etc…

The band saw recieved its long awaited upgrades. out went the Cool Blocks, in went the Accura roller bearing guides for a MUCH smoother and more stable operation. The upper guide holder for the Accura that houses the micro adjuster for the thrust bearing did NOT fit the Central Machinery band saw, but the yoke that holds the side bearings is a direct fit replacement for the yoke that holds the blocks, so that is how I handled the upper guide. Lower was a direct drop in. The MLCS safety power switch was installed and located on the post, which happened to be drilled perfectly for the mounting screws. I sacrificed an outdoor extension cord to get a sufficient cord for the task at hand. The lower factory dust port was replaced with a larger Jet 2.5" port, and an additional 2.5" port was added to the lower shroud, urethane tires were added but not pictured here, and of course the Kreg Precision Fence has been installed and tested…

And as Heaven as my witness, I have no clue where that miter gauge came from, but it can probably crawl back where it came from….

Of course the previous mods of the G0555 tensioner, riser block, wheel brush etc… are still there…

The drawers and support tables / production stop rig for the miter saw bench / mortiser bench has been done, and now in use… Some minor adjustment to the right side table to get it to line up correctly with the mortiser as the table is 1/16 proud of hte mortiser table. Looks like honestly the mortiser needs to come up…

The wall stacker was killing my back and making me not want to spend shop time working with my equipment, so I built this pair of flip top stands for my bench top tools

And if I have it right, this should be last for now, which was the sharpening station.

Wow…looks really good.