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Some pics of the workbench top...

Not much today. Just snapped some pics of the workbench top to show y'all how it is looking… I don't know about you folks, but I LOVE that color! I need to finish sanding the edges and get after them with some oil, then get after the base… And finally, wax it all down…


looking good
 

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Some pics of the workbench top...

Not much today. Just snapped some pics of the workbench top to show y'all how it is looking… I don't know about you folks, but I LOVE that color! I need to finish sanding the edges and get after them with some oil, then get after the base… And finally, wax it all down…


This is a nice addition to your shop. The BLO makes the top look good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Being a wrap artist...

No no… not rap like Urban Hip Hop make your ears bleed through 5000 watts coming out of a Gold plated and fake diamond encrustedHyundai sort of rap, but wrap as it wrapping the sisal rope for the kitty condo…

The multi tiered kitty condo is coming together, and quickly at that! I was able to spend some quality time with the brad nailer, hot glue gun, and sisal rope yesterday, I am down to having about 3' of 2×4s to wrap in rope left, and then upholster the top tier in pillow top fashion for Kitty… Have I mentioned that my wife's cat is SPOILED?

I have a day off tomorrow, one of those sanity days taken off of work. Originally it was for some medical assistance for my BIL (long story I won't get into here) but other family has stepped up to that task, so I get to do what I want to do with tomorrow… If the weather holds out dry enough, that means taking the truck back down the sides of the bayou to behind the house, loading up and hauling out the debris that the city left from Hurricane Ike, and mowing the bit of side hill that they have been ignoring for a year. Their debris pile is too close for safety for when I finally light off the stumps to finally get rid of them… (They have been sitting in stump out for 4 weeks now, 2 more weeks and it is stump flambe' time…).

Once the stumps are out, I can finally get out there with the shovel, dig out the old fence posts, level up the ground below the fence, set my new posts, and set my chalk lines for the rot board, rails, and pickets…

A gate (locked from my side) will be included in the new fence to allow me, and the dog easy access to the bayou. And the old PT deck that is falling apart is coming out…

I had been planning on keeping the garage as a workshop, but LOML is wanting me to put in the shed I had been wanting for a shop… A dedicated space, away from where she wants to park the car… That is going to involve some interesting wheeling and dealing with the HOA, they have a limit of 10×12 with a peak height of 9'7" listed in the covenants and restrictions, yet within 2 blocks of my house, within the same HOA there are no less than 10 outbuildings that are MUCH larger than the limit… I will need to apply and receive a waiver. I need to figure out how to make my workshop a benefit to the community. I am thinking noise reduction. Lord knows my current shop can be LOUD….
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Moving the table saw, and sticking the bench top tools to the wall...

Just a short note about the progress on my shop made today…

#1. The lumber for the fence got stacked more neatly to the side, in a much taller stack. This proved to be a less than brilliant idea, but it is what it is…

#2. The table saw, and workbench got moved into their almost final positions in this workshop. Which means bench behind table saw to act as outfeed support, and both rotated 90 degrees so that oufeed from the bench can get picked up by the craft bench.

#3.The outfeed support capacity got tested by ripping a 6' x 36" piece of plywood into 24" x 18" sections for my wall mount system. I got the idea for the wall mount system from BT3Central user DonHo, he is working out of a 10×12 shed. While my plans are for a larger shed, it's still a small space, and I needed to think 3D.
(The inspiration setup). I am simply planning on clamping my mount boards to my workbench when I need to use the specific tool. The tools being stacked are…
- Oscillating Spindle / Belt sander.
- Bench Top Jointer.
- 13" planer.
- 6" Bench Grinder / Sharpening station.

I had SERIOUSLY considered racking my compound miter saw, but use it too often to want to rack and unrack it all the time…

So far the rack is in place, just simple Rubbermaid closet system, not sure the nomenclature here, but brackets and rails. The part that mounts to the wall, and the part that clicks in and supports the shelf… The tools are all mounted on 24" b 18" 3/4 sheathing grade plywood (I had it already)

The planer and bench grinder are all that is left to dismount from where they are, and mount to where they will go… At that point, I disassemble the HF mobile base, and tool stands and see if I can sell them to somebody that needs them more than me…

Well, time to remove the sawdust, sweat, and whatever else is stuck to me, and get a good night's sleep before I get after it all over again…
 

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Moving the table saw, and sticking the bench top tools to the wall...

Just a short note about the progress on my shop made today…

#1. The lumber for the fence got stacked more neatly to the side, in a much taller stack. This proved to be a less than brilliant idea, but it is what it is…

#2. The table saw, and workbench got moved into their almost final positions in this workshop. Which means bench behind table saw to act as outfeed support, and both rotated 90 degrees so that oufeed from the bench can get picked up by the craft bench.

#3.The outfeed support capacity got tested by ripping a 6' x 36" piece of plywood into 24" x 18" sections for my wall mount system. I got the idea for the wall mount system from BT3Central user DonHo, he is working out of a 10×12 shed. While my plans are for a larger shed, it's still a small space, and I needed to think 3D.
(The inspiration setup). I am simply planning on clamping my mount boards to my workbench when I need to use the specific tool. The tools being stacked are…
- Oscillating Spindle / Belt sander.
- Bench Top Jointer.
- 13" planer.
- 6" Bench Grinder / Sharpening station.

I had SERIOUSLY considered racking my compound miter saw, but use it too often to want to rack and unrack it all the time…

So far the rack is in place, just simple Rubbermaid closet system, not sure the nomenclature here, but brackets and rails. The part that mounts to the wall, and the part that clicks in and supports the shelf… The tools are all mounted on 24" b 18" 3/4 sheathing grade plywood (I had it already)

The planer and bench grinder are all that is left to dismount from where they are, and mount to where they will go… At that point, I disassemble the HF mobile base, and tool stands and see if I can sell them to somebody that needs them more than me…

Well, time to remove the sawdust, sweat, and whatever else is stuck to me, and get a good night's sleep before I get after it all over again…
Did you try to insert a picture, it appears that way on this side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Moving the table saw, and sticking the bench top tools to the wall...

Just a short note about the progress on my shop made today…

#1. The lumber for the fence got stacked more neatly to the side, in a much taller stack. This proved to be a less than brilliant idea, but it is what it is…

#2. The table saw, and workbench got moved into their almost final positions in this workshop. Which means bench behind table saw to act as outfeed support, and both rotated 90 degrees so that oufeed from the bench can get picked up by the craft bench.

#3.The outfeed support capacity got tested by ripping a 6' x 36" piece of plywood into 24" x 18" sections for my wall mount system. I got the idea for the wall mount system from BT3Central user DonHo, he is working out of a 10×12 shed. While my plans are for a larger shed, it's still a small space, and I needed to think 3D.
(The inspiration setup). I am simply planning on clamping my mount boards to my workbench when I need to use the specific tool. The tools being stacked are…
- Oscillating Spindle / Belt sander.
- Bench Top Jointer.
- 13" planer.
- 6" Bench Grinder / Sharpening station.

I had SERIOUSLY considered racking my compound miter saw, but use it too often to want to rack and unrack it all the time…

So far the rack is in place, just simple Rubbermaid closet system, not sure the nomenclature here, but brackets and rails. The part that mounts to the wall, and the part that clicks in and supports the shelf… The tools are all mounted on 24" b 18" 3/4 sheathing grade plywood (I had it already)

The planer and bench grinder are all that is left to dismount from where they are, and mount to where they will go… At that point, I disassemble the HF mobile base, and tool stands and see if I can sell them to somebody that needs them more than me…

Well, time to remove the sawdust, sweat, and whatever else is stuck to me, and get a good night's sleep before I get after it all over again…
Yes. I can see the pic. What do you see?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Moving the table saw, and sticking the bench top tools to the wall...

Just a short note about the progress on my shop made today…

#1. The lumber for the fence got stacked more neatly to the side, in a much taller stack. This proved to be a less than brilliant idea, but it is what it is…

#2. The table saw, and workbench got moved into their almost final positions in this workshop. Which means bench behind table saw to act as outfeed support, and both rotated 90 degrees so that oufeed from the bench can get picked up by the craft bench.

#3.The outfeed support capacity got tested by ripping a 6' x 36" piece of plywood into 24" x 18" sections for my wall mount system. I got the idea for the wall mount system from BT3Central user DonHo, he is working out of a 10×12 shed. While my plans are for a larger shed, it's still a small space, and I needed to think 3D.
(The inspiration setup). I am simply planning on clamping my mount boards to my workbench when I need to use the specific tool. The tools being stacked are…
- Oscillating Spindle / Belt sander.
- Bench Top Jointer.
- 13" planer.
- 6" Bench Grinder / Sharpening station.

I had SERIOUSLY considered racking my compound miter saw, but use it too often to want to rack and unrack it all the time…

So far the rack is in place, just simple Rubbermaid closet system, not sure the nomenclature here, but brackets and rails. The part that mounts to the wall, and the part that clicks in and supports the shelf… The tools are all mounted on 24" b 18" 3/4 sheathing grade plywood (I had it already)

The planer and bench grinder are all that is left to dismount from where they are, and mount to where they will go… At that point, I disassemble the HF mobile base, and tool stands and see if I can sell them to somebody that needs them more than me…

Well, time to remove the sawdust, sweat, and whatever else is stuck to me, and get a good night's sleep before I get after it all over again…
Hopefully it is visible now…
 

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363 Posts
Moving the table saw, and sticking the bench top tools to the wall...

Just a short note about the progress on my shop made today…

#1. The lumber for the fence got stacked more neatly to the side, in a much taller stack. This proved to be a less than brilliant idea, but it is what it is…

#2. The table saw, and workbench got moved into their almost final positions in this workshop. Which means bench behind table saw to act as outfeed support, and both rotated 90 degrees so that oufeed from the bench can get picked up by the craft bench.

#3.The outfeed support capacity got tested by ripping a 6' x 36" piece of plywood into 24" x 18" sections for my wall mount system. I got the idea for the wall mount system from BT3Central user DonHo, he is working out of a 10×12 shed. While my plans are for a larger shed, it's still a small space, and I needed to think 3D.
(The inspiration setup). I am simply planning on clamping my mount boards to my workbench when I need to use the specific tool. The tools being stacked are…
- Oscillating Spindle / Belt sander.
- Bench Top Jointer.
- 13" planer.
- 6" Bench Grinder / Sharpening station.

I had SERIOUSLY considered racking my compound miter saw, but use it too often to want to rack and unrack it all the time…

So far the rack is in place, just simple Rubbermaid closet system, not sure the nomenclature here, but brackets and rails. The part that mounts to the wall, and the part that clicks in and supports the shelf… The tools are all mounted on 24" b 18" 3/4 sheathing grade plywood (I had it already)

The planer and bench grinder are all that is left to dismount from where they are, and mount to where they will go… At that point, I disassemble the HF mobile base, and tool stands and see if I can sell them to somebody that needs them more than me…

Well, time to remove the sawdust, sweat, and whatever else is stuck to me, and get a good night's sleep before I get after it all over again…
Nice idea, everything in its palce.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Got the tool stacking system in place.

Simply put, I took sheathing grade ply, cut it into 18×24" panels, drilled holes and counterbores for mounting hardware for my bench top tools, and mounted that all up on Rubbermaid adjustable closet shelf hardware… The panels are sized so that I can simply clamp them down to my workbench and get to work, which is awfully handy since that is where the dust collector is plumbed near…



Now to dismount the old mounting boards from the tool stands, and get ready to throw them on Craigslist…

Oh and FWIW, the shelves are level, my garage door tracks lean toward the back…
 

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Got the tool stacking system in place.

Simply put, I took sheathing grade ply, cut it into 18×24" panels, drilled holes and counterbores for mounting hardware for my bench top tools, and mounted that all up on Rubbermaid adjustable closet shelf hardware… The panels are sized so that I can simply clamp them down to my workbench and get to work, which is awfully handy since that is where the dust collector is plumbed near…



Now to dismount the old mounting boards from the tool stands, and get ready to throw them on Craigslist…

Oh and FWIW, the shelves are level, my garage door tracks lean toward the back…
That is a great idea!! I hope you don't mind, but I'm going to steal it :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Got the tool stacking system in place.

Simply put, I took sheathing grade ply, cut it into 18×24" panels, drilled holes and counterbores for mounting hardware for my bench top tools, and mounted that all up on Rubbermaid adjustable closet shelf hardware… The panels are sized so that I can simply clamp them down to my workbench and get to work, which is awfully handy since that is where the dust collector is plumbed near…



Now to dismount the old mounting boards from the tool stands, and get ready to throw them on Craigslist…

Oh and FWIW, the shelves are level, my garage door tracks lean toward the back…
I stole it to share it… Hope it works well for you too!
 

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Got the tool stacking system in place.

Simply put, I took sheathing grade ply, cut it into 18×24" panels, drilled holes and counterbores for mounting hardware for my bench top tools, and mounted that all up on Rubbermaid adjustable closet shelf hardware… The panels are sized so that I can simply clamp them down to my workbench and get to work, which is awfully handy since that is where the dust collector is plumbed near…



Now to dismount the old mounting boards from the tool stands, and get ready to throw them on Craigslist…

Oh and FWIW, the shelves are level, my garage door tracks lean toward the back…
Simple and functional.
 

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Got the tool stacking system in place.

Simply put, I took sheathing grade ply, cut it into 18×24" panels, drilled holes and counterbores for mounting hardware for my bench top tools, and mounted that all up on Rubbermaid adjustable closet shelf hardware… The panels are sized so that I can simply clamp them down to my workbench and get to work, which is awfully handy since that is where the dust collector is plumbed near…



Now to dismount the old mounting boards from the tool stands, and get ready to throw them on Craigslist…

Oh and FWIW, the shelves are level, my garage door tracks lean toward the back…
OK, dbhost, and now the rest of story…......

You were in the process of doing this when you recommended it to me! With pictures, it looks even like a better idea. I am sure I will do something similar.

Thanks, and have a good day,

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Got the tool stacking system in place.

Simply put, I took sheathing grade ply, cut it into 18×24" panels, drilled holes and counterbores for mounting hardware for my bench top tools, and mounted that all up on Rubbermaid adjustable closet shelf hardware… The panels are sized so that I can simply clamp them down to my workbench and get to work, which is awfully handy since that is where the dust collector is plumbed near…



Now to dismount the old mounting boards from the tool stands, and get ready to throw them on Craigslist…

Oh and FWIW, the shelves are level, my garage door tracks lean toward the back…
ROFLOL! Yeah… I saw another user with the setup in a teeny tiny shed and thought… Now THERE is a good, fast, easy, and easy to deal with idea…
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Mail ordering shop projects...

Anyone that has tensioned and de-tensioned the blade on a Harbor Freight, or Ridgid 14" band saw has had the experience of trying to turn the tension knob while it is right next to the back side of the upper wheel guard. Not much of a problem for someone with dainty hands, but if you are built with beefy paws like some of us… getting the knob turned while trying to keep from trapping your fingers between the knob and the wheel guard.

While there are aftermarket products, specifically the Carter Accuright Ratchet Rod, that replaces the OEM tension rod, knob, and nut assembly with a taller assembly, there are other factors to consider…

Like what do you do when you set your band saw tension and like it right there, and want to be able to quickly and easily get to and from the tension you set?

Carter again has a solution to the problem in the form of the Carter Quick Release Bandsaw Tension Toggle…

Now at $49.00 and $179.00 respectively, a prudent shopper might notice that the cost of these two upgrades is reaching the cost of a Central Machinery 14" Band Saw when you hit the sales and coupons just right…

What other options are there?

Have you noticed that the majority of the 14" band saws are almost identical, at least frame / table wise? Well this is far from coincidental… And while not intended for this purpose, the fine folks at Grizzly offer the replacement components to build the entire tension / lever assembly which can, with some very rudimentary mechanical ability, be adapted to the Central Machinery 32208 bandsaw…


The necessary parts for my conversion have been ordered, and will be installed when they come in…

The items ordered were…

Part#, Quantity, Description
P0555033A 1 Blade Adj. Screw Assy 7"
P0555133 1 Lever Rod
P0555135 1 Bushing
P0555137 1 Bracket
P0555140 2 Support Plate
P0555141 1 Fixed Base

Parts to be sourced from my local Ace Hardware are…
QTY, Description
2) 5/16-18 bolts 1 1/2"
2) 5/15-18 bolts 3/4"
1) 5/16-18 button cap screw 3/4"
7) 5/16 flat washers
2) 5/16 lock washers
2) 5/16-18 nylon locking nuts
1) 10 mm flat washer or what ever fits

I would suggest though that if you do not already have a tap & die set, steer clear of the ones Harbor Freight sells. Tap & Dies sets are pretty useless when they cannot cut metal…

Tools you will need for the conversion.
#1. Center Punch.
#2. Hammer to drive center punch.
#3. 17/64" Ti twist drill bit
#4. Accurate measuring device. Tape, ruler, caliper, whatever…
#5. Fine Point Sharpie.
#6. Hand held power drill.
#7. Safety Glasses.
#8. 5/16-18 tap & tap handle.
#9. 3/8" drive ratchet.
#10. 1/2" 3/8" drive socket.
#11. #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

The project procedure I will be going through is documented in this photo album / slide show…

Wish me luck! The results should be pretty cool…

What can I say? I'm really a Hot Rodder at heart…
 

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Mail ordering shop projects...

Anyone that has tensioned and de-tensioned the blade on a Harbor Freight, or Ridgid 14" band saw has had the experience of trying to turn the tension knob while it is right next to the back side of the upper wheel guard. Not much of a problem for someone with dainty hands, but if you are built with beefy paws like some of us… getting the knob turned while trying to keep from trapping your fingers between the knob and the wheel guard.

While there are aftermarket products, specifically the Carter Accuright Ratchet Rod, that replaces the OEM tension rod, knob, and nut assembly with a taller assembly, there are other factors to consider…

Like what do you do when you set your band saw tension and like it right there, and want to be able to quickly and easily get to and from the tension you set?

Carter again has a solution to the problem in the form of the Carter Quick Release Bandsaw Tension Toggle…

Now at $49.00 and $179.00 respectively, a prudent shopper might notice that the cost of these two upgrades is reaching the cost of a Central Machinery 14" Band Saw when you hit the sales and coupons just right…

What other options are there?

Have you noticed that the majority of the 14" band saws are almost identical, at least frame / table wise? Well this is far from coincidental… And while not intended for this purpose, the fine folks at Grizzly offer the replacement components to build the entire tension / lever assembly which can, with some very rudimentary mechanical ability, be adapted to the Central Machinery 32208 bandsaw…


The necessary parts for my conversion have been ordered, and will be installed when they come in…

The items ordered were…

Part#, Quantity, Description
P0555033A 1 Blade Adj. Screw Assy 7"
P0555133 1 Lever Rod
P0555135 1 Bushing
P0555137 1 Bracket
P0555140 2 Support Plate
P0555141 1 Fixed Base

Parts to be sourced from my local Ace Hardware are…
QTY, Description
2) 5/16-18 bolts 1 1/2"
2) 5/15-18 bolts 3/4"
1) 5/16-18 button cap screw 3/4"
7) 5/16 flat washers
2) 5/16 lock washers
2) 5/16-18 nylon locking nuts
1) 10 mm flat washer or what ever fits

I would suggest though that if you do not already have a tap & die set, steer clear of the ones Harbor Freight sells. Tap & Dies sets are pretty useless when they cannot cut metal…

Tools you will need for the conversion.
#1. Center Punch.
#2. Hammer to drive center punch.
#3. 17/64" Ti twist drill bit
#4. Accurate measuring device. Tape, ruler, caliper, whatever…
#5. Fine Point Sharpie.
#6. Hand held power drill.
#7. Safety Glasses.
#8. 5/16-18 tap & tap handle.
#9. 3/8" drive ratchet.
#10. 1/2" 3/8" drive socket.
#11. #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

The project procedure I will be going through is documented in this photo album / slide show…

Wish me luck! The results should be pretty cool…

What can I say? I'm really a Hot Rodder at heart…
Interesting modification and the process is well documented. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
More storage improvements.

I have had a reasonably busy weekend of restructuring my storage in the garage workshop. I am finally getting around to removing the mistakes I made a couple of years ago by purchasing some very LIGHT duty undersized storage shelves with a usable shelf size of 12" deep x 24" wide. These are being replaced slowly but surely by a heavy duty (as much as common plastic shelving can be) "24" deep x 36 wide shelving units from Lowes.

While both units appear to be made of ABS plastic, there is a readily apparent difference in the thickness of the plastic in use. The new ones are substantially thicker, with molded in ribbing for stiffening. The support columns are substantially thicker, and the completed assembly is noticably sturdier.

Aside from removal of rickety storage units, the bigger part of the reason behind this was to have a more efficient system for storing my stuff. I have so far tranferred the contents of all 5 shelves of my first unit, and am taking up only 2 of the 5 shelves on the new unit. I have a total of 5 shelving units to replace. I figure 2 of these will do the trick…

The organization kick is partially due to wanting to get my camping gear out of the garage and into totes up in the attic (mostly toted up now) AND to better organize lawn & garden while it is in the garage…

I hope and pray I am making progress, because right now, I can't even see the top of the table saw, or either workbench…
 

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19,720 Posts
More storage improvements.

I have had a reasonably busy weekend of restructuring my storage in the garage workshop. I am finally getting around to removing the mistakes I made a couple of years ago by purchasing some very LIGHT duty undersized storage shelves with a usable shelf size of 12" deep x 24" wide. These are being replaced slowly but surely by a heavy duty (as much as common plastic shelving can be) "24" deep x 36 wide shelving units from Lowes.

While both units appear to be made of ABS plastic, there is a readily apparent difference in the thickness of the plastic in use. The new ones are substantially thicker, with molded in ribbing for stiffening. The support columns are substantially thicker, and the completed assembly is noticably sturdier.

Aside from removal of rickety storage units, the bigger part of the reason behind this was to have a more efficient system for storing my stuff. I have so far tranferred the contents of all 5 shelves of my first unit, and am taking up only 2 of the 5 shelves on the new unit. I have a total of 5 shelving units to replace. I figure 2 of these will do the trick…

The organization kick is partially due to wanting to get my camping gear out of the garage and into totes up in the attic (mostly toted up now) AND to better organize lawn & garden while it is in the garage…

I hope and pray I am making progress, because right now, I can't even see the top of the table saw, or either workbench…
wood shelves work too.
 

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More storage improvements.

I have had a reasonably busy weekend of restructuring my storage in the garage workshop. I am finally getting around to removing the mistakes I made a couple of years ago by purchasing some very LIGHT duty undersized storage shelves with a usable shelf size of 12" deep x 24" wide. These are being replaced slowly but surely by a heavy duty (as much as common plastic shelving can be) "24" deep x 36 wide shelving units from Lowes.

While both units appear to be made of ABS plastic, there is a readily apparent difference in the thickness of the plastic in use. The new ones are substantially thicker, with molded in ribbing for stiffening. The support columns are substantially thicker, and the completed assembly is noticably sturdier.

Aside from removal of rickety storage units, the bigger part of the reason behind this was to have a more efficient system for storing my stuff. I have so far tranferred the contents of all 5 shelves of my first unit, and am taking up only 2 of the 5 shelves on the new unit. I have a total of 5 shelving units to replace. I figure 2 of these will do the trick…

The organization kick is partially due to wanting to get my camping gear out of the garage and into totes up in the attic (mostly toted up now) AND to better organize lawn & garden while it is in the garage…

I hope and pray I am making progress, because right now, I can't even see the top of the table saw, or either workbench…
I assume that this is the most cost effective solution. WE NEED PICTURES OF THE MESS…... You must understand. It makes the rest of us feel good to see others in distress, so we know we are not alone. I assume, in the midst of your calamity, you didn't get my message re the project tables with the picnic table legs. It is waiting. Cheap, Cheap, Cheap solution….....did I mention CHEAP. No, No, that is wrong….Cost Efficient. Ahhh, sounds better. Hope your day has gone well?!?

Jim
 
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