8" Delta Homecraft table saw

Bluepine38 said:

Repairing Delta 34-966 Tilting Arbor Saw

When Canadian Chips obtained his Delta 8" table saw and 4"jointer combination, I was very interested
because of a conversation I had with a model airplane builder. He put a thin kerf skil saw blade on a 10"
table saw and used it to cut small precision wood parts for making models. This idea would work even
better on an 8" saw if I only wanted to cut small items. I printed out PM-1722 from Old Woodworking
machines and discovered this little saws arbors and parts were made with as much precision as the big
Unisaw. I got lucky and bought one on Craigslist a few days later for only $30. Canadian Chips got his
entire unit in better shape for only $20, but I can not complain.

The saw did run, but the noise indicated that the bearings in both the saw and motor were bad, I tore
the saw and motor down enough to get the bearing numbers and buy new bearings. The saw had the
original New Departure 87503 bearings which had an offset inner race and could be ordered for between
$30 to $40 apiece. They measure the same 40mm OD X 17mmID X 12mmW race as the new 62032
bearing. To take care of the offset inner race difference, I bought a 14 guage 5/8" machine bushing
and turned the ID to 17mm and placed it beside the spacer between the inner races in the saw arbor
and put the arbor back together in the reverse order of taking it apart. To set the preload on the
arbor I tightened up the inside spanner nut the same way you set the preload on front wheel bearings
when repacking them. Tighten the nut until you have no side play on the bearings and the bearings
are starting to drag slightly. This trick worked on the Unisaw arbors back when they started replacing
the replacement bearings with a cartridge pack that cost way more than the bearings did, and should
still work today. If you want a picture of this set up your can look at this publication http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/3643.pdf . Page 5 shows it.

The electric motor also used the 62032 bearings, but when I tore it all the way down the armature
shaft was worn so bad that the bearing tilted back and forth, if the wear had not been so bad I might
have tried some Loctite stud and bearing mount to tighten it up, but on a 3450 rpm motor, just a
slight out of roundness would have wore the bearings out in short order. Having a 1 HP motor of the
same rpm that I had acquired a while back I was not too worried. It just needed an adapter plated to
mount it on the saws mounting plate. This would be easier than making an adapter plate to bolt a
57 Oldsmobile J2 tri-carb motor up to a 33 Ford sedan's transmission.

The first picture shows the flat head socket head capscrews countersunk into the plate and holding
one side of the adapter plated to motor, the second picture shows the special bolts made from the
head of 3/8" flat head sleeve anchor heads with 5/16" socket head set screws threaded in and
held in place with Loctite stud and bearing mount. These were countersunk into the back of the
plate and will bolt the plate to the saw motor mount, the allen wrench opening in the set screw
will allow me to tighten and loosen the nut holding the plate to the mount. Nothing worse than
not being able to take something apart once you put it together. Regular bolts through the other
two holes in the plate bolt the adapter and motor to the saw mount.

This gets the saw almost ready to run, but I decided to replace the old plywood on the stand and
set the saw lengthways on the stand at the same time, as well as add a dust collection port under
the saw. I removed the front plate on the stand and replaced it with a couple of pieces of tubing
and added a plywood shelf for storage. I then installed and wired a paddle switch on the right side
of the stand to make the saw safer to operate.

The metal on this stand was almost 1/16" of an inch thick, so I grabbed my metal cutting skil saw
and cut an opening in the back so I could access the dust collection port.

The old plate covering the saw blade had been ridden hard and put away wet, so I made a zero
clearance plate from an old plastic cutting board I had, and made two spares.

As you can see from this picture, there are four tabs sticking out of the opening that were used to
level the old table insert. I drilled 4 holes in the plastic, and only ran the tap part way through the
holes, the 5/6" X 18TPI X 3/8" long socket set screws thread down through the holes and the
partially tapped holes as a nylock to hold them firmly in place. You can access them from the
top and level the plate with ease. On the back of the saw opening there was another lip sticking
out, so I cut a piece of oak with a slot to hook under this lip when inserting the plate into the saw.
This holds the plate securely in place when I crank the Freud Diablo thin kerf blade up through the
plate as shown .

I will be making one more zero clearance plate with a riving knife secured into it later. The miter gage
that came with the saw was held to the bar with a wierd flat head shoulder bolt that was loose because
of wear, and the fact that the 8-32 thread on the end of the bolt had been twisted off in the gage. I
got lucky and my left hand drill bit spun the broken part out with no trouble, I then drilled and counter-
sunk the bar for a flat head socket head capscrew, and drilled and threaded the gage for the 1/4-20
thread. This tightened up the miter guage, and a socket set screw in the back of the guage will keep
it from coming loose. The mounting bars for the fence had become bent and beat up over the years,
so I cut them off just beyond the table.

The manual for this saw shows a splitter attachment and guards, while I doubt these parts are still
available, I might try to make them myself. This saw was designed to be used with both dado blades
and molding cutter heads. I just have to make some bowl segment sleds for this saw and it will
become my specialized bowl saw. I am going to have to improve the dust collection, and add some
casters, but I think this saw was well worth my $30 and the work I put into it. If nothing else, it
did keep me off the street corners and out of trouble for a while.

I know this saw does not look nice and shiny and new, but it suits both me and my shop, slightly
old and worn, but still working and having fun. Here is a shot of my other hobby, bird watching.

These mallards and wood ducks seem to think our lawn is their new home, along with pigeons, fool
hens and red winged blackbirds.

Click to expand...

Bluepine38 said:

Repairing Delta 34-966 Tilting Arbor Saw

When Canadian Chips obtained his Delta 8" table saw and 4"jointer combination, I was very interested
because of a conversation I had with a model airplane builder. He put a thin kerf skil saw blade on a 10"
table saw and used it to cut small precision wood parts for making models. This idea would work even
better on an 8" saw if I only wanted to cut small items. I printed out PM-1722 from Old Woodworking
machines and discovered this little saws arbors and parts were made with as much precision as the big
Unisaw. I got lucky and bought one on Craigslist a few days later for only $30. Canadian Chips got his
entire unit in better shape for only $20, but I can not complain.

The saw did run, but the noise indicated that the bearings in both the saw and motor were bad, I tore
the saw and motor down enough to get the bearing numbers and buy new bearings. The saw had the
original New Departure 87503 bearings which had an offset inner race and could be ordered for between
$30 to $40 apiece. They measure the same 40mm OD X 17mmID X 12mmW race as the new 62032
bearing. To take care of the offset inner race difference, I bought a 14 guage 5/8" machine bushing
and turned the ID to 17mm and placed it beside the spacer between the inner races in the saw arbor
and put the arbor back together in the reverse order of taking it apart. To set the preload on the
arbor I tightened up the inside spanner nut the same way you set the preload on front wheel bearings
when repacking them. Tighten the nut until you have no side play on the bearings and the bearings
are starting to drag slightly. This trick worked on the Unisaw arbors back when they started replacing
the replacement bearings with a cartridge pack that cost way more than the bearings did, and should
still work today. If you want a picture of this set up your can look at this publication http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/3643.pdf . Page 5 shows it.

The electric motor also used the 62032 bearings, but when I tore it all the way down the armature
shaft was worn so bad that the bearing tilted back and forth, if the wear had not been so bad I might
have tried some Loctite stud and bearing mount to tighten it up, but on a 3450 rpm motor, just a
slight out of roundness would have wore the bearings out in short order. Having a 1 HP motor of the
same rpm that I had acquired a while back I was not too worried. It just needed an adapter plated to
mount it on the saws mounting plate. This would be easier than making an adapter plate to bolt a
57 Oldsmobile J2 tri-carb motor up to a 33 Ford sedan's transmission.

The first picture shows the flat head socket head capscrews countersunk into the plate and holding
one side of the adapter plated to motor, the second picture shows the special bolts made from the
head of 3/8" flat head sleeve anchor heads with 5/16" socket head set screws threaded in and
held in place with Loctite stud and bearing mount. These were countersunk into the back of the
plate and will bolt the plate to the saw motor mount, the allen wrench opening in the set screw
will allow me to tighten and loosen the nut holding the plate to the mount. Nothing worse than
not being able to take something apart once you put it together. Regular bolts through the other
two holes in the plate bolt the adapter and motor to the saw mount.

This gets the saw almost ready to run, but I decided to replace the old plywood on the stand and
set the saw lengthways on the stand at the same time, as well as add a dust collection port under
the saw. I removed the front plate on the stand and replaced it with a couple of pieces of tubing
and added a plywood shelf for storage. I then installed and wired a paddle switch on the right side
of the stand to make the saw safer to operate.

The metal on this stand was almost 1/16" of an inch thick, so I grabbed my metal cutting skil saw
and cut an opening in the back so I could access the dust collection port.

The old plate covering the saw blade had been ridden hard and put away wet, so I made a zero
clearance plate from an old plastic cutting board I had, and made two spares.

As you can see from this picture, there are four tabs sticking out of the opening that were used to
level the old table insert. I drilled 4 holes in the plastic, and only ran the tap part way through the
holes, the 5/6" X 18TPI X 3/8" long socket set screws thread down through the holes and the
partially tapped holes as a nylock to hold them firmly in place. You can access them from the
top and level the plate with ease. On the back of the saw opening there was another lip sticking
out, so I cut a piece of oak with a slot to hook under this lip when inserting the plate into the saw.
This holds the plate securely in place when I crank the Freud Diablo thin kerf blade up through the
plate as shown .

I will be making one more zero clearance plate with a riving knife secured into it later. The miter gage
that came with the saw was held to the bar with a wierd flat head shoulder bolt that was loose because
of wear, and the fact that the 8-32 thread on the end of the bolt had been twisted off in the gage. I
got lucky and my left hand drill bit spun the broken part out with no trouble, I then drilled and counter-
sunk the bar for a flat head socket head capscrew, and drilled and threaded the gage for the 1/4-20
thread. This tightened up the miter guage, and a socket set screw in the back of the guage will keep
it from coming loose. The mounting bars for the fence had become bent and beat up over the years,
so I cut them off just beyond the table.

The manual for this saw shows a splitter attachment and guards, while I doubt these parts are still
available, I might try to make them myself. This saw was designed to be used with both dado blades
and molding cutter heads. I just have to make some bowl segment sleds for this saw and it will
become my specialized bowl saw. I am going to have to improve the dust collection, and add some
casters, but I think this saw was well worth my $30 and the work I put into it. If nothing else, it
did keep me off the street corners and out of trouble for a while.

I know this saw does not look nice and shiny and new, but it suits both me and my shop, slightly
old and worn, but still working and having fun. Here is a shot of my other hobby, bird watching.

These mallards and wood ducks seem to think our lawn is their new home, along with pigeons, fool
hens and red winged blackbirds.

Click to expand...

Bluepine38 said:

Repairing Delta 34-966 Tilting Arbor Saw

When Canadian Chips obtained his Delta 8" table saw and 4"jointer combination, I was very interested
because of a conversation I had with a model airplane builder. He put a thin kerf skil saw blade on a 10"
table saw and used it to cut small precision wood parts for making models. This idea would work even
better on an 8" saw if I only wanted to cut small items. I printed out PM-1722 from Old Woodworking
machines and discovered this little saws arbors and parts were made with as much precision as the big
Unisaw. I got lucky and bought one on Craigslist a few days later for only $30. Canadian Chips got his
entire unit in better shape for only $20, but I can not complain.

The saw did run, but the noise indicated that the bearings in both the saw and motor were bad, I tore
the saw and motor down enough to get the bearing numbers and buy new bearings. The saw had the
original New Departure 87503 bearings which had an offset inner race and could be ordered for between
$30 to $40 apiece. They measure the same 40mm OD X 17mmID X 12mmW race as the new 62032
bearing. To take care of the offset inner race difference, I bought a 14 guage 5/8" machine bushing
and turned the ID to 17mm and placed it beside the spacer between the inner races in the saw arbor
and put the arbor back together in the reverse order of taking it apart. To set the preload on the
arbor I tightened up the inside spanner nut the same way you set the preload on front wheel bearings
when repacking them. Tighten the nut until you have no side play on the bearings and the bearings
are starting to drag slightly. This trick worked on the Unisaw arbors back when they started replacing
the replacement bearings with a cartridge pack that cost way more than the bearings did, and should
still work today. If you want a picture of this set up your can look at this publication http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/3643.pdf . Page 5 shows it.

The electric motor also used the 62032 bearings, but when I tore it all the way down the armature
shaft was worn so bad that the bearing tilted back and forth, if the wear had not been so bad I might
have tried some Loctite stud and bearing mount to tighten it up, but on a 3450 rpm motor, just a
slight out of roundness would have wore the bearings out in short order. Having a 1 HP motor of the
same rpm that I had acquired a while back I was not too worried. It just needed an adapter plated to
mount it on the saws mounting plate. This would be easier than making an adapter plate to bolt a
57 Oldsmobile J2 tri-carb motor up to a 33 Ford sedan's transmission.

The first picture shows the flat head socket head capscrews countersunk into the plate and holding
one side of the adapter plated to motor, the second picture shows the special bolts made from the
head of 3/8" flat head sleeve anchor heads with 5/16" socket head set screws threaded in and
held in place with Loctite stud and bearing mount. These were countersunk into the back of the
plate and will bolt the plate to the saw motor mount, the allen wrench opening in the set screw
will allow me to tighten and loosen the nut holding the plate to the mount. Nothing worse than
not being able to take something apart once you put it together. Regular bolts through the other
two holes in the plate bolt the adapter and motor to the saw mount.

This gets the saw almost ready to run, but I decided to replace the old plywood on the stand and
set the saw lengthways on the stand at the same time, as well as add a dust collection port under
the saw. I removed the front plate on the stand and replaced it with a couple of pieces of tubing
and added a plywood shelf for storage. I then installed and wired a paddle switch on the right side
of the stand to make the saw safer to operate.

The metal on this stand was almost 1/16" of an inch thick, so I grabbed my metal cutting skil saw
and cut an opening in the back so I could access the dust collection port.

The old plate covering the saw blade had been ridden hard and put away wet, so I made a zero
clearance plate from an old plastic cutting board I had, and made two spares.

As you can see from this picture, there are four tabs sticking out of the opening that were used to
level the old table insert. I drilled 4 holes in the plastic, and only ran the tap part way through the
holes, the 5/6" X 18TPI X 3/8" long socket set screws thread down through the holes and the
partially tapped holes as a nylock to hold them firmly in place. You can access them from the
top and level the plate with ease. On the back of the saw opening there was another lip sticking
out, so I cut a piece of oak with a slot to hook under this lip when inserting the plate into the saw.
This holds the plate securely in place when I crank the Freud Diablo thin kerf blade up through the
plate as shown .

I will be making one more zero clearance plate with a riving knife secured into it later. The miter gage
that came with the saw was held to the bar with a wierd flat head shoulder bolt that was loose because
of wear, and the fact that the 8-32 thread on the end of the bolt had been twisted off in the gage. I
got lucky and my left hand drill bit spun the broken part out with no trouble, I then drilled and counter-
sunk the bar for a flat head socket head capscrew, and drilled and threaded the gage for the 1/4-20
thread. This tightened up the miter guage, and a socket set screw in the back of the guage will keep
it from coming loose. The mounting bars for the fence had become bent and beat up over the years,
so I cut them off just beyond the table.

The manual for this saw shows a splitter attachment and guards, while I doubt these parts are still
available, I might try to make them myself. This saw was designed to be used with both dado blades
and molding cutter heads. I just have to make some bowl segment sleds for this saw and it will
become my specialized bowl saw. I am going to have to improve the dust collection, and add some
casters, but I think this saw was well worth my $30 and the work I put into it. If nothing else, it
did keep me off the street corners and out of trouble for a while.

I know this saw does not look nice and shiny and new, but it suits both me and my shop, slightly
old and worn, but still working and having fun. Here is a shot of my other hobby, bird watching.

These mallards and wood ducks seem to think our lawn is their new home, along with pigeons, fool
hens and red winged blackbirds.

Click to expand...

Bluepine38 said:

Repairing Delta 34-966 Tilting Arbor Saw

When Canadian Chips obtained his Delta 8" table saw and 4"jointer combination, I was very interested
because of a conversation I had with a model airplane builder. He put a thin kerf skil saw blade on a 10"
table saw and used it to cut small precision wood parts for making models. This idea would work even
better on an 8" saw if I only wanted to cut small items. I printed out PM-1722 from Old Woodworking
machines and discovered this little saws arbors and parts were made with as much precision as the big
Unisaw. I got lucky and bought one on Craigslist a few days later for only $30. Canadian Chips got his
entire unit in better shape for only $20, but I can not complain.

The saw did run, but the noise indicated that the bearings in both the saw and motor were bad, I tore
the saw and motor down enough to get the bearing numbers and buy new bearings. The saw had the
original New Departure 87503 bearings which had an offset inner race and could be ordered for between
$30 to $40 apiece. They measure the same 40mm OD X 17mmID X 12mmW race as the new 62032
bearing. To take care of the offset inner race difference, I bought a 14 guage 5/8" machine bushing
and turned the ID to 17mm and placed it beside the spacer between the inner races in the saw arbor
and put the arbor back together in the reverse order of taking it apart. To set the preload on the
arbor I tightened up the inside spanner nut the same way you set the preload on front wheel bearings
when repacking them. Tighten the nut until you have no side play on the bearings and the bearings
are starting to drag slightly. This trick worked on the Unisaw arbors back when they started replacing
the replacement bearings with a cartridge pack that cost way more than the bearings did, and should
still work today. If you want a picture of this set up your can look at this publication http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/3643.pdf . Page 5 shows it.

The electric motor also used the 62032 bearings, but when I tore it all the way down the armature
shaft was worn so bad that the bearing tilted back and forth, if the wear had not been so bad I might
have tried some Loctite stud and bearing mount to tighten it up, but on a 3450 rpm motor, just a
slight out of roundness would have wore the bearings out in short order. Having a 1 HP motor of the
same rpm that I had acquired a while back I was not too worried. It just needed an adapter plated to
mount it on the saws mounting plate. This would be easier than making an adapter plate to bolt a
57 Oldsmobile J2 tri-carb motor up to a 33 Ford sedan's transmission.

The first picture shows the flat head socket head capscrews countersunk into the plate and holding
one side of the adapter plated to motor, the second picture shows the special bolts made from the
head of 3/8" flat head sleeve anchor heads with 5/16" socket head set screws threaded in and
held in place with Loctite stud and bearing mount. These were countersunk into the back of the
plate and will bolt the plate to the saw motor mount, the allen wrench opening in the set screw
will allow me to tighten and loosen the nut holding the plate to the mount. Nothing worse than
not being able to take something apart once you put it together. Regular bolts through the other
two holes in the plate bolt the adapter and motor to the saw mount.

This gets the saw almost ready to run, but I decided to replace the old plywood on the stand and
set the saw lengthways on the stand at the same time, as well as add a dust collection port under
the saw. I removed the front plate on the stand and replaced it with a couple of pieces of tubing
and added a plywood shelf for storage. I then installed and wired a paddle switch on the right side
of the stand to make the saw safer to operate.

The metal on this stand was almost 1/16" of an inch thick, so I grabbed my metal cutting skil saw
and cut an opening in the back so I could access the dust collection port.

The old plate covering the saw blade had been ridden hard and put away wet, so I made a zero
clearance plate from an old plastic cutting board I had, and made two spares.

As you can see from this picture, there are four tabs sticking out of the opening that were used to
level the old table insert. I drilled 4 holes in the plastic, and only ran the tap part way through the
holes, the 5/6" X 18TPI X 3/8" long socket set screws thread down through the holes and the
partially tapped holes as a nylock to hold them firmly in place. You can access them from the
top and level the plate with ease. On the back of the saw opening there was another lip sticking
out, so I cut a piece of oak with a slot to hook under this lip when inserting the plate into the saw.
This holds the plate securely in place when I crank the Freud Diablo thin kerf blade up through the
plate as shown .

I will be making one more zero clearance plate with a riving knife secured into it later. The miter gage
that came with the saw was held to the bar with a wierd flat head shoulder bolt that was loose because
of wear, and the fact that the 8-32 thread on the end of the bolt had been twisted off in the gage. I
got lucky and my left hand drill bit spun the broken part out with no trouble, I then drilled and counter-
sunk the bar for a flat head socket head capscrew, and drilled and threaded the gage for the 1/4-20
thread. This tightened up the miter guage, and a socket set screw in the back of the guage will keep
it from coming loose. The mounting bars for the fence had become bent and beat up over the years,
so I cut them off just beyond the table.

The manual for this saw shows a splitter attachment and guards, while I doubt these parts are still
available, I might try to make them myself. This saw was designed to be used with both dado blades
and molding cutter heads. I just have to make some bowl segment sleds for this saw and it will
become my specialized bowl saw. I am going to have to improve the dust collection, and add some
casters, but I think this saw was well worth my $30 and the work I put into it. If nothing else, it
did keep me off the street corners and out of trouble for a while.

I know this saw does not look nice and shiny and new, but it suits both me and my shop, slightly
old and worn, but still working and having fun. Here is a shot of my other hobby, bird watching.

These mallards and wood ducks seem to think our lawn is their new home, along with pigeons, fool
hens and red winged blackbirds.

Click to expand...

Bluepine38 said:

Repairing Delta 34-966 Tilting Arbor Saw

When Canadian Chips obtained his Delta 8" table saw and 4"jointer combination, I was very interested
because of a conversation I had with a model airplane builder. He put a thin kerf skil saw blade on a 10"
table saw and used it to cut small precision wood parts for making models. This idea would work even
better on an 8" saw if I only wanted to cut small items. I printed out PM-1722 from Old Woodworking
machines and discovered this little saws arbors and parts were made with as much precision as the big
Unisaw. I got lucky and bought one on Craigslist a few days later for only $30. Canadian Chips got his
entire unit in better shape for only $20, but I can not complain.

The saw did run, but the noise indicated that the bearings in both the saw and motor were bad, I tore
the saw and motor down enough to get the bearing numbers and buy new bearings. The saw had the
original New Departure 87503 bearings which had an offset inner race and could be ordered for between
$30 to $40 apiece. They measure the same 40mm OD X 17mmID X 12mmW race as the new 62032
bearing. To take care of the offset inner race difference, I bought a 14 guage 5/8" machine bushing
and turned the ID to 17mm and placed it beside the spacer between the inner races in the saw arbor
and put the arbor back together in the reverse order of taking it apart. To set the preload on the
arbor I tightened up the inside spanner nut the same way you set the preload on front wheel bearings
when repacking them. Tighten the nut until you have no side play on the bearings and the bearings
are starting to drag slightly. This trick worked on the Unisaw arbors back when they started replacing
the replacement bearings with a cartridge pack that cost way more than the bearings did, and should
still work today. If you want a picture of this set up your can look at this publication http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/3643.pdf . Page 5 shows it.

The electric motor also used the 62032 bearings, but when I tore it all the way down the armature
shaft was worn so bad that the bearing tilted back and forth, if the wear had not been so bad I might
have tried some Loctite stud and bearing mount to tighten it up, but on a 3450 rpm motor, just a
slight out of roundness would have wore the bearings out in short order. Having a 1 HP motor of the
same rpm that I had acquired a while back I was not too worried. It just needed an adapter plated to
mount it on the saws mounting plate. This would be easier than making an adapter plate to bolt a
57 Oldsmobile J2 tri-carb motor up to a 33 Ford sedan's transmission.

The first picture shows the flat head socket head capscrews countersunk into the plate and holding
one side of the adapter plated to motor, the second picture shows the special bolts made from the
head of 3/8" flat head sleeve anchor heads with 5/16" socket head set screws threaded in and
held in place with Loctite stud and bearing mount. These were countersunk into the back of the
plate and will bolt the plate to the saw motor mount, the allen wrench opening in the set screw
will allow me to tighten and loosen the nut holding the plate to the mount. Nothing worse than
not being able to take something apart once you put it together. Regular bolts through the other
two holes in the plate bolt the adapter and motor to the saw mount.

This gets the saw almost ready to run, but I decided to replace the old plywood on the stand and
set the saw lengthways on the stand at the same time, as well as add a dust collection port under
the saw. I removed the front plate on the stand and replaced it with a couple of pieces of tubing
and added a plywood shelf for storage. I then installed and wired a paddle switch on the right side
of the stand to make the saw safer to operate.

The metal on this stand was almost 1/16" of an inch thick, so I grabbed my metal cutting skil saw
and cut an opening in the back so I could access the dust collection port.

The old plate covering the saw blade had been ridden hard and put away wet, so I made a zero
clearance plate from an old plastic cutting board I had, and made two spares.

As you can see from this picture, there are four tabs sticking out of the opening that were used to
level the old table insert. I drilled 4 holes in the plastic, and only ran the tap part way through the
holes, the 5/6" X 18TPI X 3/8" long socket set screws thread down through the holes and the
partially tapped holes as a nylock to hold them firmly in place. You can access them from the
top and level the plate with ease. On the back of the saw opening there was another lip sticking
out, so I cut a piece of oak with a slot to hook under this lip when inserting the plate into the saw.
This holds the plate securely in place when I crank the Freud Diablo thin kerf blade up through the
plate as shown .

I will be making one more zero clearance plate with a riving knife secured into it later. The miter gage
that came with the saw was held to the bar with a wierd flat head shoulder bolt that was loose because
of wear, and the fact that the 8-32 thread on the end of the bolt had been twisted off in the gage. I
got lucky and my left hand drill bit spun the broken part out with no trouble, I then drilled and counter-
sunk the bar for a flat head socket head capscrew, and drilled and threaded the gage for the 1/4-20
thread. This tightened up the miter guage, and a socket set screw in the back of the guage will keep
it from coming loose. The mounting bars for the fence had become bent and beat up over the years,
so I cut them off just beyond the table.

The manual for this saw shows a splitter attachment and guards, while I doubt these parts are still
available, I might try to make them myself. This saw was designed to be used with both dado blades
and molding cutter heads. I just have to make some bowl segment sleds for this saw and it will
become my specialized bowl saw. I am going to have to improve the dust collection, and add some
casters, but I think this saw was well worth my $30 and the work I put into it. If nothing else, it
did keep me off the street corners and out of trouble for a while.

I know this saw does not look nice and shiny and new, but it suits both me and my shop, slightly
old and worn, but still working and having fun. Here is a shot of my other hobby, bird watching.

These mallards and wood ducks seem to think our lawn is their new home, along with pigeons, fool
hens and red winged blackbirds.

Click to expand...

Bluepine38 said:

Frankensaw

I bought and rebuilt a 1949 Delta Cabinet Saw for my shop, but it is a little big for small projects, so I decided
to redo my Delta 8" tablesaw for smaller projects. Solid table saw extension for a Delta 8" saw are not easily
found, but I had an old Atlas 8" table saw I got free with an open style extension that after I drilled a couple
of holes bolted right up to my Delta.

These older saws were not made for dust collection, so I cut a few pieces of masonite and made a sloped
interior for the saw body to feed the sawdust into my dust collection intake a little better. The fence system
on the Delta was rather beat up and I also had an old Ryobi BT3000 that was not quite my idea of a good
table saw, so using a few aluminum adapting brackets I bolted the Ryobi fence to the Delta and was also able to use the Ryobi sliding table extension and router mount on the saw.

I needed a bigger base for this saw, so I adapted the old Ryobi base by adding a bottom shelf made from
particle board and some recycled alder flooring. I had recently acquired a sheet of 30" by 12' by 3/4"
Ash Rose corian in a shade tree barter process and while I know that Sandra does not like pink hammer's, I
think she might like my free pink mounting slab for my Frankensaw. I cut and drilled and routed this outside my shop on a wlndy day because corian makes a fine abrasive dust that is very difficult to get collected and rid
of. I added some big casters so it will roll easily around the shop and because I have an uneven floor, I added
two leveling bolts and adapted the nuts so that they are the same size as the leveling bolts on my big saw.

The motor that came with the Delta had been neglected so long that the bearings had worn the shaft
and it was not economically repairable. I had rebuilt the Atlas saw motor, but it would not easily fit on
the Delta without setting too far to the side. I had this old Craftsman motor I had rebuilt and with an
adapter plate it mounted to the saw. At 1 HP I have not been able to slow the saw down even when
I used a metal cutting blade and cut the aluminum adapters.

If you can not buy what you want, you may as well make it, it is fun, and it keeps me off street corners
and out of most trouble. I now have most of my summer projects completed except for the router table
that I am making from the top of the Atlas saw. In another month, I may just have everything finished
and actually do some woodworking.

Click to expand...

Bluepine38 said:

Frankensaw

I bought and rebuilt a 1949 Delta Cabinet Saw for my shop, but it is a little big for small projects, so I decided
to redo my Delta 8" tablesaw for smaller projects. Solid table saw extension for a Delta 8" saw are not easily
found, but I had an old Atlas 8" table saw I got free with an open style extension that after I drilled a couple
of holes bolted right up to my Delta.

These older saws were not made for dust collection, so I cut a few pieces of masonite and made a sloped
interior for the saw body to feed the sawdust into my dust collection intake a little better. The fence system
on the Delta was rather beat up and I also had an old Ryobi BT3000 that was not quite my idea of a good
table saw, so using a few aluminum adapting brackets I bolted the Ryobi fence to the Delta and was also able to use the Ryobi sliding table extension and router mount on the saw.

I needed a bigger base for this saw, so I adapted the old Ryobi base by adding a bottom shelf made from
particle board and some recycled alder flooring. I had recently acquired a sheet of 30" by 12' by 3/4"
Ash Rose corian in a shade tree barter process and while I know that Sandra does not like pink hammer's, I
think she might like my free pink mounting slab for my Frankensaw. I cut and drilled and routed this outside my shop on a wlndy day because corian makes a fine abrasive dust that is very difficult to get collected and rid
of. I added some big casters so it will roll easily around the shop and because I have an uneven floor, I added
two leveling bolts and adapted the nuts so that they are the same size as the leveling bolts on my big saw.

The motor that came with the Delta had been neglected so long that the bearings had worn the shaft
and it was not economically repairable. I had rebuilt the Atlas saw motor, but it would not easily fit on
the Delta without setting too far to the side. I had this old Craftsman motor I had rebuilt and with an
adapter plate it mounted to the saw. At 1 HP I have not been able to slow the saw down even when
I used a metal cutting blade and cut the aluminum adapters.

If you can not buy what you want, you may as well make it, it is fun, and it keeps me off street corners
and out of most trouble. I now have most of my summer projects completed except for the router table
that I am making from the top of the Atlas saw. In another month, I may just have everything finished
and actually do some woodworking.

Click to expand...