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With a well tuned saw that has an arbor that spins true, and flat straight stock, there should be no need for a stabilizer. I've compared them with and without quite a few times, and have never noticed a difference. If there's an issue that a blade stabilizer improves, it's really more of a band aid than a cure, so it's better to fix the root cause.

The biggest benefit of using a TK blade is that it's 33% thinner than a full kerf and is easier for the motor to spin. With a 3hp motor there's little incentive to use a TK, and with a 5hp, there's even less reason to, so I'd recommend full kerf.

Which blade is really a personal choice. If you want the best possible cut, use blades that are task specific….typically a good 60T to 80T for plywood or fine crosscuts, and a 20-24T for low burning in heavy ripping. If you just want good nuff performance with the convenience of one blade, any of the top shelf 40T or 50T general purpose/combo blades will typically do a nice job and will usually leave a glue ready edge. I'm very fond of blades from Infinity, but have had excellent results from Ridge Carbide, Tenryu Gold Medal, Forrest, Amana Tools, Freud Industrial, CMT Industrial, etc. If you opt for a general purpose blade, IMO the 40T Delta 35-7657 is hands down the best bang for the buck going in a US made standard ATB full kerf 40T blade…it's darn close to performance of the premium blades for at a closeout price of near $30….if you want/need better performance than that, you're best off with the dedicated blades. If you do decide to spring for a Forrest WWII, I'd suggest the 30T version because it offers a more unique range.
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