[ErichK]

Thanks, everyone and Knotscott, I just read your write up and lot s of good information in general. Thank you for your time on that.

So my last question would be what splitter thickness for Sharkguard? Would the .120 be what I want? Just a hair less than a full kerf of .125, or the next option would be the .105 and I don t know if that is too much smaller.

- Fiddy

I bought the .090, but only use a full-kerf blade (Forrest WWII). My reasoning is that the effectiveness is roughly the same, but it allows me to use thin kerf blades if I'm in a situation where I needed to.

 

[ErichK]

Erich, I was thinking the same thing, but wasn t sure if it would lessen the effect. have you had any issues of binding etc. running the smaller kerf splitter?

- Fiddy

Nope, everything I've had that binds simply binds on the splitter, which would happen either way. My ONLY concern with going with the thinner one is when I have the fence on the left (since you align the splitter's right side with the right side of the blade!), but the amount of distance between the left and the left of the blade is so small that I doubt that it would catch 'enough' to kickback (instead of simply cutting the wood).

I almost exclusively use the 'middle' size one. The small one is PERHAPS useful for non-through cuts, but I haven't really used it. The large splitter seems only useful if you get the whole kit with blade guard, otherwise it just sits on my shelf.

BTW: The SharkGuard guy is actually working on/investigating a riving knife for our saws! I'd pinged him a while ago and gave him some info for the PM66 saw that was holding him up, but I haven't heard anything back since.