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So the new saw is in and ready to work. Got the 220 extension cord and new outlet ran last night, what a hummmmm….

Few initial needs I want to approach quickly. First was better riving knife/splitter and Shark Guard seems to be where I've landed. My need for help is on what splitter thickness to get. Since the shark guard set up isn't something I want to have to replace, I'd like to settle on what kerf thickness for blades I'd like to begin using/acquiring.

My previous saw was underpowered and therefore ran thin kerf blades on. I have a handful I would consider disposable and then two I used that were my better blades. First was a Freud Glue Line, which I passed along to the guy who bought my old saw. It was very thin and I assumed not needed, or all that useful on my new saw. Aside from that, I do have a Forrest Woodworker 11 .100 kerf. Lastly, there was a blade on the new saw when I bought it needs cleaned and probably sharpened, but I believe it was a 60 tooth, general purpose Freud (older I suppose, all silver) and that is full kerf 1/8".

Regardless of the blades I currently have, I'm not making that my focus on what size to order my Shark Guard in. I would just like to know what your thoughts are on running a 5hp saw and what blades you use most often, specifically what kerf.

Last question and I believe I saw somewhere on a post where I believe Loren mentioned using a blade stabilizer on a similar saw, thoughts on that?

Hope that all made sense - let me know if anyone needs more information to be able to better answer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks, everyone and Knotscott, I just read your write up and lot's of good information in general. Thank you for your time on that.

So my last question would be what splitter thickness for Sharkguard? Would the .120 be what I want? Just a hair less than a full kerf of .125, or the next option would be the .105 and I don't know if that is too much smaller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks Erich - is that the ARK I saw online, something like that I believe. Saw a video and saw some comments on our saw and working towards a fix around the one point of contact etc.

Thanks Jonah - that makes perfect sense and I almost solely rip to the right of the blade so no issues there.

Thanks for the help on this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Just to follow up on this for anyone looking to order the same product. Lee had confirmed and shared a link from his site on this topic as well. Thin kerf is what I went for to have the most flexibility moving forward and to ensure I can keep my Forrest that I already have. Really doesn't seem to be much of a disadvantage, only some added options down the road.

http://thesharkguard.com/thick.html
 
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