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Have you ever had this problem? I bought a bi metal 5/8th 3 tpi blade. suppose to be Lenox generic wood miser. wanting to go with max rigidity in the blade allowable on my machine.

After working on other projects I replaced my 1/2 inch Olsen Pro with the 5/8ths blade. Noticed the weld was not smooth so I used some al oxide 220 to rub it down. Tensioned the blade up. seemed taught. Did manual run setting the guide wheels. No noises and it seemed to track.

Turned on the saw and noticed it moving back and forward? Thought I'd increase tension some more. Seemed better but still doing the dance on the wheel?

Any ideas?

Thanks

Tom
 

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Too much tension causing the tires to squirm under the blade on the wheels?
 

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Where is the gullet in relation to the tire? I've experienced that the gullet has to be in the middle of the wheel regardless of size of the blade. Maybe that's the issue? Or 1/2" is the largest the BS will take? I know my 14"'s manual says 1/2", so I'm hesistant to upgrade to a 5/8". Just some ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Rayne,

The tensioner says 3/4 but I've learned from my helpful fellow LJ's that I couldn't go 3/4 so I opted for 5/8ths. maybe it's too wide to ride on the tires? I have some cheaper blades I'll try tomorrow from same company.

Thanks for the thoughts.
 

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My guess is a bad weld of the blade causing it to dance like that,it is very easy to verify it,just use a long straight edge (lay it flat on a table),make the back of the blade touch against it(few inches above the weld),the blade should touch the length of the straight edge all the way ,there should be no gaps.
But if the blade is welded crooked,you'll see it not touching the straight edge passed the weld area.
 

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+1 for Ken's thoughts. I worked in maintenance for decades in factories, and we often had to weld our own blades. Sometimes, the edges to be welded would not be truly parallel, and not perfectly perpendicular to the run of the blade. When welded, although the two edges looked fine, it caused a runout problem with the blade.
 

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Doc, I always 'stone' the backside of all my bandsaw blades as soon as I install them to smooth the back edge where it may contact the thrust bearing. If the weld isn't too malaligned, this will help a lot.
 

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According to Alex Snodgrass, the back of the gullet has to be center not the gullet, you want the teeth to to stick out past the ridge from what I understand.

I also agree with Ken, seems that the blades weren't aligned correctly when the weld was made, if that is the case that is just piss poor craftsmanship, they need to fire who ever is making the blades and get someone in there that know what they are doing.

My local shop that I get my blades from are spot on now, never have I had a bad weld or a blade break, butt… when I first started using them they had someone in there that didn't have the experience thus I had a blade break every now and then, but no more once they were receiving complaints.
 

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+1 to what gfadvm said. I've seen good results from not only tracking on the wheel, but less wandering through the wood as the burr is gone so no more dragging on the sides of the kerf. I will usually lightly tension my blades and (with the saw unplugged) spin the wheels backward so an incidental contact with the blade won't break the skin vs. almost guaranteeing lost blood spinning them forward. This I've found to be especially true with a new, low tooth count blade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Checked the larger blade with straight edge. Appears to be a bad weld. The 1/2 inch walked the tire. Put the olsen blade back on and no movement.

Emailed the company…We'll see?

Got clients today.

Later
 
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