Should work. You may want a jam nut in between.
3" x 3/8" hangar bolt threaded on both ends?
To attach leg with a 3/8" wood insert nut into a 3/8" t-nut. Would all thread work or would leg never tighten due to all threads?
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Leg got to go agin it. No jamb nut, Stump.Should work. You may want a jam nut in between.
- Madmark2
Round or square leg. Round it doesn't matter. Square you have to stop with the face of the leg facing a certain way so thin jam nut lets you tweak.
Ya, you're kinda going to want them to face in a specific direction.
Tip: RECESS the T-nut inserts to cover the thickness of the jam nut …
Tip: RECESS the T-nut inserts to cover the thickness of the jam nut …
That's done. Can't find hangar bolt threaded on both ends at 3/8 x 16. Have inserts and T nuts. Was going to cut all thread that size but not sure it would tighten leg into t nut baseTip: RECESS the T-nut inserts to cover the thickness of the jam nut …
- Madmark2
ATR with jam nut is same as unthreaded portion of the hanger.
Unless I'm mistaken, hanger bolts have a right-hand thread on one end and a left-hand thread on the other.To attach leg with a 3/8" wood insert nut into a 3/8" t-nut. Would all thread work or would leg never tighten due to all threads?
- 1thumb
MrRon: You are mistaken. If they were reversed there would be no way to tighten it. Think of plumbing, all the threads go the same way. You're thinking of a turnbuckle that has to have opposite threads to pull at both ends from one turn.
If you are using a connector bolt with the nut in the center that would only work to the point of the thickness of the wrench. If the threads all run the same it will pull together when either end is rotated with no "tool gap" needed.
If you are using a connector bolt with the nut in the center that would only work to the point of the thickness of the wrench. If the threads all run the same it will pull together when either end is rotated with no "tool gap" needed.
I think I'm mistaken by calling it a hanger bolt. As I've been trying find one that size all come up with machine threads on one side, lag bolt threads on other end. I bought threaded rod and jam nuts, H/T MadMark, i'll see how it goes tomorrow.Unless I m mistaken, hanger bolts have a right-hand thread on one end and a left-hand thread on the other.
- MrRon
Exactly.5/16×18 Hangar bolt
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- waho6o9
Photo of legs shows threaded studs, not hanger bolt.
I.E. Confusing terminology is being used.
Plus hardware pictured seems odd/wrong for mounting corner legs?
+1 Hanger bolts have both right/left hand threads.
They also have machine screw threads one end, and wood screw threads on other, just like picture above. Used specifically when you want to screw wooden legs into a threaded insert.
+1 screwing on corner legs with predetermined stop angle is going to be PITA, even with proper hanger bolt.
Will need to either:
- use jam nut to stop turning at desired angle.
- make many adjustments to the depth of wood screw into leg to control the position and degree of tightness.
Using a threaded stud with inserts on both mating halves, will be similar PITA. But the challenge is the threaded rod will screw into which ever half has least resistance, and never get tight without hitting a end of insert at wood or using a jam nut.
IMHO - I would not use the hardware shown in the picture.
Removable carved corner legs need to attached into sides of apron using standard 'table corner leg bracket' inside apron, or utilize the backside relief to enable a bolt to go all the way through the leg top. Both of these make setting facing direction and attachment easy.
Good Luck.
I.E. Confusing terminology is being used.
Plus hardware pictured seems odd/wrong for mounting corner legs?
+1 Hanger bolts have both right/left hand threads.
They also have machine screw threads one end, and wood screw threads on other, just like picture above. Used specifically when you want to screw wooden legs into a threaded insert.
+1 screwing on corner legs with predetermined stop angle is going to be PITA, even with proper hanger bolt.
Will need to either:
- use jam nut to stop turning at desired angle.
- make many adjustments to the depth of wood screw into leg to control the position and degree of tightness.
Using a threaded stud with inserts on both mating halves, will be similar PITA. But the challenge is the threaded rod will screw into which ever half has least resistance, and never get tight without hitting a end of insert at wood or using a jam nut.
IMHO - I would not use the hardware shown in the picture.
Removable carved corner legs need to attached into sides of apron using standard 'table corner leg bracket' inside apron, or utilize the backside relief to enable a bolt to go all the way through the leg top. Both of these make setting facing direction and attachment easy.
Good Luck.
Legs going underneath top, no apron. She bought an antique nightstand, had me cut off stubby legs and install longer legs so she can use as a vanity in her bathroom. I have threaded rod, threaded inserts, tnuts and jam nuts. Prob put 2 jam nuts on rod, countersink base where tnuts go, screw rod into inserts in leg and screw leg into nightstand base t-nutsIMHO - I would not use the hardware shown in the picture.
Removable carved corner legs need to attached into sides of apron using standard table corner leg bracket inside apron, or utilize the backside relief to enable a bolt to go all the way through the leg top. Both of these make setting facing direction and attachment easy.
Good Luck.
- CaptainKlutz
Found 3/8" steel insert nuts to use with 3/8 tnuts and threaded rod. Didn't predrill legs further, greased up the inserts and powered those into the Chinese balsa wood legs. Put tnuts onto base and cut threaded rod. All went together well and tight … so far
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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