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230V Table saw plug/cord question

13332 Views 14 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  apehl
Our breaker box is old and full, cannot add any new circuits. We've got one usable outlet for the saw and fortunately that dryer outlet is right next to the door leading to the garage. So I can either get/make an extension cord or - the owner's manual says - I can replace the saw cord itself with a longer one. I've replaced many power cords, outlets and replaced a couple breakers, but that's all I know about wiring.

The Sawstop manual says this:

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Our dryer outlet is not like Sketch A, this is our plug:

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The saw is rated 230V and 13A, the dryer circuit is 30A. So is it as easy as just adding that kind of plug to the proper cord wire for the saw, or am I not considering enough stuff here? Sorry, I've read through a few threads here about shop wiring and that obviously hasn't helped my thickheaded idiocy.


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One idea would be to make up an extension cord with a dryer plug on one end and a work box on the other end with an outlet for the saw plug.
I just replaced the cord on my 5HP planer and put a "dryer plug" like you pictured on it. It's a 30 amp motor and so far it is working fine. I know nothing of Saw Stop so your mileage may vary.

Just make sure the wire in your new cord is rated for the amps required.
We just re-did our pool last month, installing a sub panel just ain't gonna happen. I looked into all the variables for that option, and it would be nice, but I need a lower-cost one.

SS - adding a box/outlet would be do-able, though.
As gfadvm stated, just make an extension cord, of 10 or 12 gauge wire, with a male dryer plug on one end and the appropriate female plug for you saw on the other end. I run my 230v equipment that way.
The dryer plug has the third prong because it uses 110 to run the motor, but 220 for the heat. You don't need the third one to power your saw, but you should have a grounded connection. I assume (I may be wrong about this), that the neutral contact and ground are one and the same with a dryer. I know that Square D boxes use the same bus for both ground and neutral, but that other brands have separate busses.

As I look over what I just wrote, I realize I probably merely confused the issue. Oh, your 13 amp 220 volt motor won't need anything heavier than 12 gauge. Many 220v tools actually come with an even lighter-probably 14 gauge wire. Compared with 110v, you're not pushing twice as much current through each wire, but only half as much.
I have done the same thing with my 230 stuff and nothing has burned down yet, so I guess it works.
Connecting a 12 gauge wire to a dryer Plug will leave you with a wire that cannot carry all of the current from the 30 amp breaker for the dryer. If you have a short on your saw or the wiring going to it you will have a fire on your hands. To do this safely.

Purchase a small 2 circuit box like this one: Square D by Schneider Electric Homeline 70 Amp 2-Space 4-Circuit Indoor Surface Mount Main Lugs Load Center with Cover from home depot. Purchase a 20 amp 2 pole breaker to fit the new box. Wire the line side of the breaker with 10 gauge wire and a dryer plug. off the load side, wire with 12 gauge to a 220 standard receptacle in a handy box nipped to the breaker box. Plug your saw into the 220 plug and when your wife will let you stop her dryer unplug her dryer and plug in your adapter, with no fire hazard .
English, thanks. I've read that elsewhere about 10 gauge. The dryer and the saw will never be running at the same time because there's only one outlet and the dryer has to be unplugged for me to use the saw - are you saying this still could be a problem with the extension cord?
No problem with an extension cord as long as it is rated for your saw. You would need to get a 12 gauge cord. they are the yellow ones at Home Depot. The plugs on the cord will be for 120 volt. You can but 220 male and female ends for the cord to match your saw and receptacle. Don't get a cord any longer that you need.
I would keep it to about 15 feet if you can and if your that worried about it just get 10 gauge wire it will be a bigger PITA to wire in because its thicker but no one ever burned anything down with higher then rated cord, 12 will work perfectly fine but if your nervous about it just get 10 and then you can really have piece of mind.
I was looking at 10 gauge over at HD this afternoon, that's some thick stuff. I'm fine with 12, that's what SS recommends even at 50-100 feet. Although if I had to stretch it out to 100 feet for some insane reason I sure wouldn't use 12.

Really appreciate all the input.
Going through this right now on my grizzly saw. Everything is wired for 220 but i need a longer cord. From my understand 12-3 extension cords converted to power cords should all be rated for the same volts and amps correct? My saw is a 8amp at 220v and requires a 14guage cord, Nema 6-20 plug.
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I am trying to pick one out at my local menards and there is a flexzilla cord thats on sale 12-3 (25') that shows 125volts and 15 amps and another roll of power cord with no ends thats rated 600volts and a higher amp. However talking with an electrical friend he thought that might be the marketing side of it since the flexzilla is more for home use. Any suggestions? Id like the flexzilla because its cheaper and I have liked their product in the past.


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