LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner
  • Please post in our Community Feedback thread for help with the new forum software! If you are having trouble logging in, please Contact Us for assistance.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Engineering Gas Wood Machine Auto part


Wood Automotive tire Machine Hardwood Toy


Picked this old guy up from my father. Wouldn't run at first, and of course I checked the switch first….. Maybe… Ok last. So after new switch it purred wonderfully!!! Stripped the old green off and brought back the new dewalt colors. Changed out the cords and got a hold of the anti-kickback pawl. And replaced the long bolts that hold the motor housing together. Everything else was flawless!!! Just debating on the table and new blade. Gonna go with the forrest, just still searchin opinions on which one. And the mr. Sawdust table will happen when I get the blade.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,549 Posts
I'll second the negative rake blade, unless you intend to rip with it (I never do). 9" blades are really hard to find, I think the Forrest may be one exception. I have a Ridge Carbide 9" but it looks like they quit making them not long after I bought mine. A good economical choice (back to the negative rake thing) would be a Freud LU91 in the 8 1/2" size. Loosing the 1/4" of cutting depth is no big deal, and since those saws are exactly overpowered it will behave a little better. Nice job on the refurb, I suppose you replaced the motor bearings? If the saw coasts for an excessive amount of time after shut down (with a blade, say one minute or more) the bearings could use replacing. One last point, you can see in the link that blade can be bought without that absolutely hideous red coating, looks much better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
I know this post is a couple months old, but if you haven't picked up a blade, the folks at the dewalt RAS forum on delphi recommend an 8" Forrest WWI TCP blade for 9 or 10" saws, or the Freud LU83R if your saw is underpowered.

http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/messages?msg=3909.1

You'll probably have to register to read the posts. Note that to get the Forrest blades they suggest, you have to call Forrest directly, as they don't appear for sale anywhere, even Forrest's own website. The blade was developed specifically for DeWalt saws by Forrest and Wally Kunkel, and actually has a positive hook angle. There's an excellent FAQ on the forum that I've been perusing in preparation for cleaning up the GWI I just picked up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
I know this post is a couple months old, but if you haven t picked up a blade, the folks at the dewalt RAS forum on delphi recommend an 8" Forrest WWI TCP blade for 9 or 10" saws, or the Freud LU83R if your saw is underpowered.

http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/messages?msg=3909.1

You ll probably have to register to read the posts. Note that to get the Forrest blades they suggest, you have to call Forrest directly, as they don t appear for sale anywhere, even Forrest s own website. The blade was developed specifically for DeWalt saws by Forrest and Wally Kunkel, and actually has a positive hook angle. There s an excellent FAQ on the forum that I ve been perusing in preparation for cleaning up the GWI I just picked up.

- Adam
So, why the positive hook angle if the neg is supposed to be better?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Just based on what they are saying over there, the positive hook angle blades give you the ability to do all of the other cuts that a RAS will allow. A negative hook will apparently get bogged down doing rips and bevels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Great job on the restoration. I've been looking locally, but haven't found and old DeWalt yet that I'm interested in. I currently own a 1975 Craftsman that I bought new-my first big power tool.

I replaced the top on it a few years ago, and used 1" MDF, with a thin (~1/16") veneer of white melamine. Then I banded with thin strips of oak. The melamine can be replaced, if needed. I only tack glued it in a few places so it can be removed. It is nice to have a smooth, white surface to run lumber across. My replacement fence has a T-Track on top on the left side, with a regular and flip stops. It is pictured in one of the pictures in My Workshop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,549 Posts
Actually the only thing the negative hook won't do is rip cuts (it's does them, but very,very, poorly and slowly). It cuts slower than any positive hook angle on any grain direction, so when you cut a bevel it cuts that more slowly as well. But the premise of their fondness of theat blade is right on, they advocate doing rip cuts. Many members over there have no TS, they are dedicated to the RAS. The advantages of the negative hook (more smooth cross cuts and miters) may (or not) be of more importance to someone who uses a TS for the other cuts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,343 Posts
Looks great. How's the power? Mine was never too good right from the start.

Please, please, please don't rip with it. Its a dangerous procedure and this saw is too underpowered to do it.

I had one exactly like it but unfortunately the motor windings went bad and it needed to be hand wound, so I just couldn't justify it. But man, did it ever hold its settings.

I like what you did instead of that ugly original green.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well it's been sittin like the pictures for a while now. Haven't got around to build the table and get the blade yet. Before I refinished it I had an old 9" freud on it with maybe a 10 hook on it. Power was ok but gonna go with a negative hook and down to 8". I use my ts for all my ripping so this was more for fun. I have it adjusted pretty tight but have to wait for the table to see if it will hold. I have a lot of confidence in it that's for sure!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Bought the cord at grainger. It was ten foot. Just cut it to fit. And I did swap where the cords go on the arm. Cord from the motor got switched to the rear hole and the cord for the wall went into the forward hole. It helped with the cord getting caught up on the slide stop knob.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top