Are the wheels coplanar? Open both wheel covers and place a long straight edge against the wheels and see if they line up. It sounds like the upper wheel may be out a little causing the blade to move. I would look at the tensioning mechanism as well. From your description the upper wheel could be loose on the shaft, check the retaining nut, it should be snug, not overly tight. How old is the saw? It could also be upper wheel bearings are getting worn.
14" band saw blade tracking problem - after it has been sitting
I am having problems with my blade tracking. I can get it dialed in (centered on the tire), then once I release the quick tension lever, then reapply the tension, the blade jumps forward about 1/4" when it is turned on.
I have also kept the blade tensioning on. When I start it up the next day, the blade jumps forward. I don;t have any problems start and stopping in one woodworking "session". Do I have wood shop devils sneaking in during the night and messing with my saw? I'm stumped and getting frusterated havng to adjust my tracking, guide blocks and thrust bearings each day.
The saw is new to me. I took it apart, cleaned it, put new Carter tires on it. It has a new blade.
Any ideas?
Delta 28-206 1HP enclosed base with a 93.5" 3/16" blade
I have also kept the blade tensioning on. When I start it up the next day, the blade jumps forward. I don;t have any problems start and stopping in one woodworking "session". Do I have wood shop devils sneaking in during the night and messing with my saw? I'm stumped and getting frusterated havng to adjust my tracking, guide blocks and thrust bearings each day.
The saw is new to me. I took it apart, cleaned it, put new Carter tires on it. It has a new blade.
Any ideas?
Delta 28-206 1HP enclosed base with a 93.5" 3/16" blade
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
So I adjust the wheels to be coplanar, but once I apply tension, the top wheel moves up (as expected) AND the top of the wheel starts angling toward me if I were using the saw. Is the wheel supposed to change angle when tension is applied? The wheel has a little play when tension is not appled, but no pla after tensioning.
Jeff,
The wheel should not have any play in the bearing or on the shaft. The bracket that holds the shaft floats in a track so is loose and floppy until tension is applied.
Try checking the co planarity with just light tension. At this point you can use the tracking adjustment to bring the wheel to achieve 4 point contact with a straight edge running across almost the center of each wheel.
Turn the wheel by hand to allow the band to track.
Now increase tension for cutting.
Don't know if you can do all of this with the quick tension rig.
With a good band installed, position your fence and make a cut. If the band is tracking properly, you should achieve a straight clean cut.
If the you cannot control the cut (drift), make minor adjustment to the tracking until it cuts straight. You should be able to shave a 1/16" thick piece of veneer with ease.
Tensioning and de-tensioning should not affect your settings, but I have no experience with the quick release mechanism.
The following conditions will appear to track properly until you start cutting:
- a damaged band, a dull band, a band that has been used for curves - one side will be duller.
If you do a lot of curves, have dedicated bands.
If you are cutting a lot of wood, your bands will wear. Keep spares. Make sure you have the right band for the job. A 1/2" 3TPI will give very good cuts for most work. I have just moved up to a 3/4" 3TPI and a 3/4" bi metal 4-6 TPI as I am cutting a lot off jatoba and teak right now. The wood you are cutting has a bigger impact of the quality of the cut than the blade. Getting an even feed rate on that tiny high table is a challenge.
Hope this is of some value.
Don
The wheel should not have any play in the bearing or on the shaft. The bracket that holds the shaft floats in a track so is loose and floppy until tension is applied.
Try checking the co planarity with just light tension. At this point you can use the tracking adjustment to bring the wheel to achieve 4 point contact with a straight edge running across almost the center of each wheel.
Turn the wheel by hand to allow the band to track.
Now increase tension for cutting.
Don't know if you can do all of this with the quick tension rig.
With a good band installed, position your fence and make a cut. If the band is tracking properly, you should achieve a straight clean cut.
If the you cannot control the cut (drift), make minor adjustment to the tracking until it cuts straight. You should be able to shave a 1/16" thick piece of veneer with ease.
Tensioning and de-tensioning should not affect your settings, but I have no experience with the quick release mechanism.
The following conditions will appear to track properly until you start cutting:
- a damaged band, a dull band, a band that has been used for curves - one side will be duller.
If you do a lot of curves, have dedicated bands.
If you are cutting a lot of wood, your bands will wear. Keep spares. Make sure you have the right band for the job. A 1/2" 3TPI will give very good cuts for most work. I have just moved up to a 3/4" 3TPI and a 3/4" bi metal 4-6 TPI as I am cutting a lot off jatoba and teak right now. The wood you are cutting has a bigger impact of the quality of the cut than the blade. Getting an even feed rate on that tiny high table is a challenge.
Hope this is of some value.
Don
My wheels do not visably move when tensioning and do not have any play when untensioned. Perhaps you have a bad/unseated bearing?
I have snugged up the nut on the upper wheel a little more and it appears to have helped. I will post in a few days with an update.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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