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Does anyone with a 1.75 HP Sawstop (CNS or PCS) regret not going with more power? I'm getting closer to ordering a PCS and leaning toward the 1.75 HP but wanted to get some first-hand feedback. Do you run full kerf or thin kerf blades? For ripping, do you use a true ripping blade?

My current saw is a Ridgid R4512 and the power has been adequate for my projects. Never used the stock blade, but instead I have two thin kerf blades: a 50 tooth Freud combo and a 24 tooth Freud ripping blade. Probably the only time I did many high-power cuts was when ripping various 8/4 hardwoods for a set of 10 cutting boards, but the saw handled it just fine. The rest of my projects all deal with typical 4/4 lumber. Not saying I wouldn't get into projects that require consistent use of thick stock in the future, but that is definitely not the case right now.

Where would I notice the difference in power? If ripping thick stock is the main area then I'm not sure the very small portion of the saw's life spent doing that will save enough time to offset the $500+ it would take to upgrade the saw and my garage to 220V. I suppose there is something to say about 3+ HP being plenty to run full kerf blades and the increased stability you get from those. Where else do you notice more power?

Thanks!
 

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I don't have a Saw Stop saw, but did make the jump from 1.75hp to 3hp a few years back. My other saws were all capable of making all the cuts I needed with a good blade, but the difference is very noticeable from the moment you turn to the saw on it comes to life faster. Power wise its also quite noticeable. Even mathematically, it's a significant jump in percentage increase (+71%). The added power allows you to dictate the feed rate, as opposed to the saw dictating the feed rate to you. It's a comfort thing more than cutting speed for me. It almost never slows, rarely labors, and is less sensitive about the blade. It's not so different than going from an average family sedan to a performance car….heck yeah, it's noticeable, but they both accomplish the same thing in the end. In theory, a 3hp motor should last longer too, because it strains much less often. A bigger motor is simply a pleasure to use.

If you've got 220v, and are about to spend a fair chunk of change on a saw, IMHO it'd be worth the added cost of going with the bigger motor in the long run, especially if you're hoping for this to be the saw of your dreams. If the price difference causes some hardship, or you just want the basic saw for the safety feature, then it may not be worth pursuing, because 1.75hp is certainly sufficient most of the time.
 

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Can't improve on anything Scott said, he nailed it! I do want to mention: the Sawstop riving knife might keep you from using a thin kerf blade. I have a SS, but to be honest, never looked at the thickness of the riving knife (my blades are all regular kerf). We're a little snowed in today, if i get out to the shop later, I'll check. But be sure to re-read Scott's last sentence, it was what I found when I went from a 1.5HP contractors saw to a 3 HP cabinet saw.
 

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I had the 1.75 HP. It did OK. I had to use a ripping blade when cutting 8/4 Oak. If I had to do it over again. I would 100% go with the 3HP saw. Its just not the extra power you are getting, its the more stable platform. Also the 3HP is more in line with the price point of its peers (unisaw, PM2000 etc) where the 1.75 is way over priced compared to the competition. Also I have never known anyone who wished they bought the 1.75 instead of the 3.

here is my review on the 1.75 from a few years back.

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/2416
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the feedback! I know I wouldn't wish for less power, but the cost to upgrade to 220V may push this out of my wife's budget approval. I can always upgrade the saw to 220V down the road for very similar cost.

Just called Sawstop and the service technician also confirmed that thin kerf are fine for use with the 0.090" riving knife. He did point out that ripping with thin kerf blades doesn't give much margin if you have an unstable wood that may twist into the blade. His input about blades was primarily about keeping them sharp.

Also asked if he's heard of the free mobile base (or overarm dust collection) promotion coming up again, but he didn't know because he doesn't hear much about marketing stuff like that. I see that last year's promo started on March 1st so I have about a month until then to see for sure. He did say the company was busy getting the new jobsite saw out, so I hope that doesn't preclude them from offering the PCS promo again.
 

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I can always upgrade the saw to 220V down the road for very similar cost.
Do you mean buy a new saw or re-wire the 1.75 to 220V? If its the latter I don't think it will help you gain any more power. I think 220 is used because on 3hp saws they draw more amps than a single outlet can deliver. The watts are always the same reguardless of the voltage.

Correct me if I am wrong here guys.

Take my wifes blow dryer, its 1800 watts

On 120V
1800/120 = 15 amps

On 220V
1800/220 = 8 amps

Its not using any more power or any less. 1.75 hp is still a 1,300 Watt motor regardless of how the power is delivered vs 2,200 watts for 3hp.
 

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I don't have the 1.75HP model, but rather the 3.0HP model. Difference in price was about $600-$750 after I tacked on the cost for an electrician to come and give me an extra 220 circuit / outlet. So while I can't offer any opinion on if I wish I had gone for the 3.0HP, I can absolutely say this - I definitely don't sit around thinking "man I really wish I had that $600 back."

As far as the TK/FK blades… I use both and haven't ever had a problem with the riving knife + TK.

Also, the past few years, the free mobile base / overarm dust collection deal has come around the March/April timeframe, so if you can wait another 2-3 months, it should be worth your while. One tip - even if you get the PCS, if you at all plan on moving the saw around any, pay the extra for the ICS base. It's pricey (about $400 IIRC), but it makes moving it absolutely a breeze.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I can always upgrade the saw to 220V down the road for very similar cost.

Do you mean buy a new saw or re-wire the 1.75 to 220V? If its the latter I don t think it will help you gain any more power. I think 220 is used because on 3hp saws they draw more amps than a single outlet can deliver. The watts are always the same reguardless of the voltage.

Correct me if I am wrong here guys.

Take my wifes blow dryer, its 1800 watts

On 120V
1800/120 = 15 amps

On 220V
1800/220 = 8 amps

Its not using any more power or any less.

- agallant
I mean buy the 3 hp motor. You are correct that a motor of given HP just draws different amperage based on what voltage it is hooked up to.
 

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I own the 1.75 PCS and while I wish I could have gone with the 3hp, I do not regret getting the 1.75. I was in a similar boat, I only had 110, to go to 220 was going to cost around $1,000 when all said and done. Add the higher cost of the 3hp and I was over the allowed limit. Just as a side note, you can upgrade the 1.75 to 3hp down the road, sometimes you can find the motors on ebay/craigslist for a few hundred. I have Freud blades regular and thin and have never had any bogging down issue in 8/4, if I have to cut anything thicker or really hard I use my bandsaw anyway. The saw is a great tool, well written instruction, great accuracy out of the box, it was dead on when I assembled it. Customer service was great. I had a nick in one of my fences faces, didn't affect the fence just didn't look nice (no idea if it was from me or when packaging, didn't notice it until my first project was done). I called them up and by the end of the week I had a new fence face, 0 cost. If I had to do it over again I would go the same route. As far as cost comparison the new Powermatic PM1000 which is 1.75 hp starts at 2K and goes up depending on fence option. Yes is a little cheaper but no safety brake and for me few hundred more is worth the piece of mind. Good luck on your saw buying.
 

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Also asked if he s heard of the free mobile base (or overarm dust collection) promotion coming up again, but he didn t know because he doesn t hear much about marketing stuff like that. I see that last year s promo started on March 1st so I have about a month until then to see for sure. He did say the company was busy getting the new jobsite saw out, so I hope that doesn t preclude them from offering the PCS promo again.

- CM02WS6
You may be able to confirm by searching, but I think they've run the promo every year for the past several years-though it may not have been the same time of year. I remember reading last year that someone bought a saw less than a month before the promo started, and SawStop honored the promo for that person. There's no guarantee they'll do it again, but it's not outside the realm of possibility.

I saw the jobsite saw this weekend and although it's nice for a jobsite saw, it understandably feels cheap compared to SawStop's other models. Given the small price difference between the jobsite and contractor saws, the jobsite saw seems very specifically targeted toward jobsite contractors rather than general woodworkers. I would hope the company doesn't have any delusions that anyone doing woodworking at home would buy the jobsite saw over the contractor saw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You may be able to confirm by searching, but I think they ve run the promo every year for the past several years-though it may not have been the same time of year. I remember reading last year that someone bought a saw less than a month before the promo started, and SawStop honored the promo for that person. There s no guarantee they ll do it again, but it s not outside the realm of possibility.

I saw the jobsite saw this weekend and although it s nice for a jobsite saw, it understandably feels cheap compared to SawStop s other models. Given the small price difference between the jobsite and contractor saws, the jobsite saw seems very specifically targeted toward jobsite contractors rather than general woodworkers. I would hope the company doesn t have any delusions that anyone doing woodworking at home would buy the jobsite saw over the contractor saw.

- Rob
I did see a reference to that, I believe the person ordered it a week before the promo came out and they did honor the promo. I'll probably wait until March 1st, or call and ask the marketing department to see if they can give me some inside info :)

I just hope the company's focus on getting the new jobsite saw out doesn't prevent them from running the promo on the PCS.
 

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Reading your post made me recall when I was getting ready to go pick up my 3 HP PCS Sawstop. I asked my young son if he was ready to go with me to pick up his inheritance. He was too young to know what an inheritance was, but that's how I viewed the saw and helped me decide between the 1.75 and the 3. I also had to add a 220 line in my basement shop, but it was no big deal to do myself. Electricity is not something to mess with if you're not comfortable and knowledgeable, but it may not be out of the question for you to get that knowledge and level of comfort. I guess my point is, for most of us, that level of expenditure for a tool is one that should last long after your current and near future needs.
 

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As for upgrading the saw to 3 HP, I can tell you this: SS parts are sometimes cheaper than getting them on the saw. I was recently looking at a 3 phase ICS with the thought of buying it and converting it to single phase. This was a 5 HP saw, and the single phase motor from SS was $300 (it's a $400 upgrade when you buy it on the ICS) plus i would have needed a new contactor (another $100). That doesn't allow for shipping, which I guess could be substantial depending on where you are…but still makes it not a bad plan. In my case, the deal fell through and I never actually executed on it. I also read somewhere (I think it was on this forum) that the SS motors are interchangeable with the Unisaw motors, meaning you may have buyers for the motor you replace (if true).
 
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