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Handles

Handles -

Having cut out the first handle with a coping saw, I used files and rasps to further define the shape.

Wood Gesture Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


I then transferred the shape to another cherry board and started all over again.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Rectangle


I think these two handles are pretty close …

Wood Rectangle Brick Brickwork Font


... especially when viewed at three feet apart … LOL!

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Overall this saw will be approximately 40" long and 20" wide. Next I need to cut the 3/4" x 1" side rails, and joint them, via through mortise and tenon, to the handles before tackling the blade attachment pieces.

Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
One of these years I'm going to have to do something with the non-handle end of my frame saw and round off the sides. I keep meaning to, but I've got way more projects than time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Handles

Handles -

Having cut out the first handle with a coping saw, I used files and rasps to further define the shape.

Wood Gesture Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


I then transferred the shape to another cherry board and started all over again.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Rectangle


I think these two handles are pretty close …

Wood Rectangle Brick Brickwork Font


... especially when viewed at three feet apart … LOL!

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Overall this saw will be approximately 40" long and 20" wide. Next I need to cut the 3/4" x 1" side rails, and joint them, via through mortise and tenon, to the handles before tackling the blade attachment pieces.

Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
One of these years I'm going to have to do something with the non-handle end of my frame saw and round off the sides. I keep meaning to, but I've got way more projects than time.

- Dave Polaschek
That's a good looking saw, Dave. I see you used the Blackburn Tools hardware. How heavy is it?
 

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Premium Member
Joined
·
7,328 Posts
Handles

Handles -

Having cut out the first handle with a coping saw, I used files and rasps to further define the shape.

Wood Gesture Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


I then transferred the shape to another cherry board and started all over again.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Rectangle


I think these two handles are pretty close …

Wood Rectangle Brick Brickwork Font


... especially when viewed at three feet apart … LOL!

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Overall this saw will be approximately 40" long and 20" wide. Next I need to cut the 3/4" x 1" side rails, and joint them, via through mortise and tenon, to the handles before tackling the blade attachment pieces.

Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
I used the kit from Bad Axe, which is similar to the Blackburn one, but different. The whole thing has a good amount of heft to it, but I've never weighed it. I'll try to remember to haul my bathroom scale out to the shop at some point this weekend so I can get you a real number.

It's heavy enough that I won't mind losing some weight when I finish shaping things, but mostly I want to finish shaping them so it doesn't have sharp edges. Since I weigh 280, I figure working up a sweat resawing something is probably good for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Handles

Handles -

Having cut out the first handle with a coping saw, I used files and rasps to further define the shape.

Wood Gesture Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


I then transferred the shape to another cherry board and started all over again.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Rectangle


I think these two handles are pretty close …

Wood Rectangle Brick Brickwork Font


... especially when viewed at three feet apart … LOL!

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Overall this saw will be approximately 40" long and 20" wide. Next I need to cut the 3/4" x 1" side rails, and joint them, via through mortise and tenon, to the handles before tackling the blade attachment pieces.

Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
I used the kit from Bad Axe, which is similar to the Blackburn one, but different. The whole thing has a good amount of heft to it, but I've never weighed it. I'll try to remember to haul my bathroom scale out to the shop at some point this weekend so I can get you a real number.

It's heavy enough that I won't mind losing some weight when I finish shaping things, but mostly I want to finish shaping them so it doesn't have sharp edges. Since I weigh 280, I figure working up a sweat resawing something is probably good for me.

- Dave Polaschek
"... a good amount of heft to it …" that's the main reason I wanted to have an all wood saw. My contention is that a lighter saw is easier to control … at least for me, anyway. A frame saw in and of itself has a bit of heft due to it's size. No sense overdoing things with all that extra metal.
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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7,328 Posts
Handles

Handles -

Having cut out the first handle with a coping saw, I used files and rasps to further define the shape.

Wood Gesture Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


I then transferred the shape to another cherry board and started all over again.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Rectangle


I think these two handles are pretty close …

Wood Rectangle Brick Brickwork Font


... especially when viewed at three feet apart … LOL!

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Overall this saw will be approximately 40" long and 20" wide. Next I need to cut the 3/4" x 1" side rails, and joint them, via through mortise and tenon, to the handles before tackling the blade attachment pieces.

Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
Yeah, there are times when I think it would be nice if the saw was lighter. One of these times, I'll end up contouring things because of that. But I don't think the metal makes a huge difference. The metal blocks aren't very heavy compared to the amount of wood I would want to hold the blade in tension. My initial guess is that it's about a wash, but I've just spent the past two hours shoveling snow, so I may not be thinking clearly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Handles

Handles -

Having cut out the first handle with a coping saw, I used files and rasps to further define the shape.

Wood Gesture Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


I then transferred the shape to another cherry board and started all over again.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Rectangle


I think these two handles are pretty close …

Wood Rectangle Brick Brickwork Font


... especially when viewed at three feet apart … LOL!

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Overall this saw will be approximately 40" long and 20" wide. Next I need to cut the 3/4" x 1" side rails, and joint them, via through mortise and tenon, to the handles before tackling the blade attachment pieces.

Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
Yeah, there are times when I think it would be nice if the saw was lighter. One of these times, I'll end up contouring things because of that. But I don't think the metal makes a huge difference. The metal blocks aren't very heavy compared to the amount of wood I would want to hold the blade in tension. My initial guess is that it's about a wash, but I've just spent the past two hours shoveling snow, so I may not be thinking clearly.

- Dave Polaschek
The Bad Axe and Blackburn kits call for 8/4 stock (I think) … I used 4/4 cherry to help keep the weight down.

Shoveling snow? WOW … it was 75° here the other day!
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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7,328 Posts
Handles

Handles -

Having cut out the first handle with a coping saw, I used files and rasps to further define the shape.

Wood Gesture Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


I then transferred the shape to another cherry board and started all over again.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Rectangle


I think these two handles are pretty close …

Wood Rectangle Brick Brickwork Font


... especially when viewed at three feet apart … LOL!

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Overall this saw will be approximately 40" long and 20" wide. Next I need to cut the 3/4" x 1" side rails, and joint them, via through mortise and tenon, to the handles before tackling the blade attachment pieces.

Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
Shoveling again this morning. And more on Wednesday and his weekend. I had to take a break halfway through this morning, not because it was so much (2 inches of light fluffy stuff) but more because I'm worn down from spending most of yesterday shoveling, including one time because the neighbor kids knocked all the snow back onto the sidewalks.

Yeah, I think it was 8/4 stock I used on mine. Still haven't gotten the scale out there, but it's on my list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

Furniture Wood Chair Wood stain Hardwood


… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

Hand Wood Elbow Artisan Wrist


… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

Wood Tool Cuisine Gas Cooking


… making sure everything stayed square …

Wood Creative arts Finger Wood stain Hardwood


… and tight.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Musical instrument


Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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7,328 Posts
Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

Furniture Wood Chair Wood stain Hardwood


… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

Hand Wood Elbow Artisan Wrist


… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

Wood Tool Cuisine Gas Cooking


… making sure everything stayed square …

Wood Creative arts Finger Wood stain Hardwood


… and tight.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Musical instrument


Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
Oh yeah. Good thing you realized that before cutting the sides to length!
 

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981 Posts
Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

Furniture Wood Chair Wood stain Hardwood


… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

Hand Wood Elbow Artisan Wrist


… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

Wood Tool Cuisine Gas Cooking


… making sure everything stayed square …

Wood Creative arts Finger Wood stain Hardwood


… and tight.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Musical instrument


Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
I now see how this saw has an all wood blade mounting, interesting. I'm wondering if through continued use, the blade will wear through the wooden pin.
I'm also wondering how blade tensioning will work. I'll wait and see.

By the way, sweet drill press there.
 

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584 Posts
Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

Furniture Wood Chair Wood stain Hardwood


… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

Hand Wood Elbow Artisan Wrist


… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

Wood Tool Cuisine Gas Cooking


… making sure everything stayed square …

Wood Creative arts Finger Wood stain Hardwood


… and tight.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Musical instrument


Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
Nice work.

Is the drillpress an "Armstrong"?
 

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2,671 Posts
Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

Furniture Wood Chair Wood stain Hardwood


… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

Hand Wood Elbow Artisan Wrist


… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

Wood Tool Cuisine Gas Cooking


… making sure everything stayed square …

Wood Creative arts Finger Wood stain Hardwood


… and tight.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Musical instrument


Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
Very Interesting!!!
 

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Registered
Joined
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111 Posts
Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

Furniture Wood Chair Wood stain Hardwood


… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

Hand Wood Elbow Artisan Wrist


… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

Wood Tool Cuisine Gas Cooking


… making sure everything stayed square …

Wood Creative arts Finger Wood stain Hardwood


… and tight.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Musical instrument


Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
Really neat to see this coming together, Ron! The wedge handles blade tension, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

Furniture Wood Chair Wood stain Hardwood


… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

Hand Wood Elbow Artisan Wrist


… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

Wood Tool Cuisine Gas Cooking


… making sure everything stayed square …

Wood Creative arts Finger Wood stain Hardwood


… and tight.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Musical instrument


Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
I now see how this saw has an all wood blade mounting, interesting. I m wondering if through continued use, the blade will wear through the wooden pin.
I m also wondering how blade tensioning will work. I ll wait and see.

By the way, sweet drill press there.

- Oldtool
Thanks, Tom. It's possible that the blade will wear through the wooden pin. I have poplar pins in there currently. If one wears out … I'll just pop in another one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

Furniture Wood Chair Wood stain Hardwood


… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

Hand Wood Elbow Artisan Wrist


… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

Wood Tool Cuisine Gas Cooking


… making sure everything stayed square …

Wood Creative arts Finger Wood stain Hardwood


… and tight.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Musical instrument


Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
Nice work.

Is the drillpress an "Armstrong"?

- ralbuck
Thanks! LOL … yes, an Armstrong drill press.
Very Interesting!!!

- htl
Thank you!
 

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1,547 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

Furniture Wood Chair Wood stain Hardwood


… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

Hand Wood Elbow Artisan Wrist


… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

Wood Tool Cuisine Gas Cooking


… making sure everything stayed square …

Wood Creative arts Finger Wood stain Hardwood


… and tight.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Musical instrument


Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
Really neat to see this coming together, Ron! The wedge handles blade tension, right?

- Dan Wolfgang
Thanks, Dan. Yes, I'm hoping for the wedge to provide blade tension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

Furniture Wood Chair Wood stain Hardwood


… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

Hand Wood Elbow Artisan Wrist


… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

Wood Tool Cuisine Gas Cooking


… making sure everything stayed square …

Wood Creative arts Finger Wood stain Hardwood


… and tight.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Musical instrument


Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
Oh yeah. Good thing you realized that before cutting the sides to length!

- Dave Polaschek
Sure beats taking a hacksaw to the blade … LOL!
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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7,328 Posts
Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

Furniture Wood Chair Wood stain Hardwood


… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

Hand Wood Elbow Artisan Wrist


… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

Wood Tool Cuisine Gas Cooking


… making sure everything stayed square …

Wood Creative arts Finger Wood stain Hardwood


… and tight.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Musical instrument


Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
Sure beats taking a hacksaw to the blade … LOL!
I'm starting work on my flush-cut / miter-jack / chairmaker's-tenon saw soon, and one of the bigger problems is how to turn a cheap panel-saw blade into the right shape. Good thing I have a friend with a plasma cutter. ;-) Once again, I don't like using power-tools myself, but I'm happy to have someone else use them to help me out.

Edited to add: and I'm not entirely sure "fire" counts as a power tool ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

Furniture Wood Chair Wood stain Hardwood


… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

Hand Wood Elbow Artisan Wrist


… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

Wood Tool Cuisine Gas Cooking


… making sure everything stayed square …

Wood Creative arts Finger Wood stain Hardwood


… and tight.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Musical instrument


Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
I'm starting work on my flush-cut / miter-jack / chairmaker's-tenon saw soon, and one of the bigger problems is how to turn a cheap panel-saw blade into the right shape. Good thing I have a friend with a plasma cutter. ;-) Once again, I don't like using power-tools myself, but I'm happy to have someone else use them to help me out.

- Dave Polaschek
I used a hacksaw to cut an old backsaw blade for my kerfing plane … took forever! I look forward to seeing your flush-cut / miter-jack / chairmaker's-tenon saw. LOL!
 

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Cart Before the Horse

Cart Before the Horse -

I know I said I was going to attach the side rails next, but as I was ripping these parts …

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… it dawned on me that I didn't know how long they needed to be. I wouldn't know the length until the blade attachment pieces were in place. So, once I laid out their shape on a cherry board, I drilled holes for the blade pins …

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… cut mortises for the handles to pass through …

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… making sure everything stayed square …

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… and tight.

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Once they were cut out with a coping saw and shaped with rasp and file, I positioned the handles and attached the blade.

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Now I can determine the length of the side pieces. Once cut, I'll attach via through mortise and tenon.

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Thanks for looking, more to come. As always, all comments and/or questions welcomed.

Follow my progress with the links below.
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #1: The Want
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #2: Handles
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #3: Cart Before the Horse
Eighteenth-Century Frame Saw #4: Side Rails and a Test Drive
Nice solution to the tension problem. Well done.
 

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