Well i just got a commission for a picture frame from a friend of the families. they want it to be made out of hickory to match their cabinets and they want the design to be the same as that of their cabinets. here is what i came up with on sketchup.
so i just ordered the wood from Goosebay Lumber which i have tried before and i was happy with what i got so i figured that i would go back to them. as always though i treated myself to some other small pieces of wood along with my order. I got a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 18" purpleheart turning blank to use for inlays and a couple of small ziricote cutoffs. i can't wait. so within the next two weeks i should have a blog documenting the building process and most likely have the finished project posted in about 2 1/2 weeks. thanks for looking!
thanks everyone i just sent out for the wood. they will probably get the check at the end of the week and i should get the wood by next Wednesday. thanks for the comments!
Just a little update on the picture frame. i got the hickory today and have planned out all of my cuts. I am waiting until this weekend when i am supposed to get a table saw until i do any work. i have planned out the finish to. it looks like from my test piece the finish that got both piece the closest was Arm-R-Seal. I wanted to use a water based but i really didn't like the look so oil is the way to go. hoping to have the table saw tuned up and a router table build onto it by next Tuesday so i can start the project. I should have the project finished by next friday. Thanks for reading and any comments will be appreciated.
Well over the last two days i have been able to really get some good solid work done on my mirror frames. first i was able to mill all the lumber to final width.
then it was time to cut the piece. i don't have a long miter bed with a stop block so i used double stick tape to hold the rough identical pieces together to give me exactly the same piece. the first picture is putting the tape on and the second is all the piece cut to final length.
Then i cut the groove in the first picture, the finished tongue in the second picture, and glued it up.
after it was done drying i router a rabbit in the back to house the mirror, you can't really see it in the first picture but i made a mistake and went a little too far with the router. the second picture is after i made the repair.
the repair was in the back so it wasn't much cosmetic it was because i wanted to have a structurally sound joint so i needed to put the wood back in there. so thats all for today. I should have the woodworking finished tomorrow and the finishing done by the end of the week. thanks for reading and all comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Well I'm nearing the end now, i've got a lot done in the last two days. not a whole lot physically but the details are really coming along good. i'll get right into it.
first i needed to cut a v groove at the intersection of the tongue and groove. i started by cutting a groove in the intersection area. then i chiseled away the waste to get a rough groove and finished it up with some sandpaper
Then after that was done i put in the ebony peg. i will go more into that on an episode of the teen age woodworker that i want to have with simple inlays and accents you can do with very little tools.
now just a picture on me with the biggest frame so you get the jist of how it is going
So last after the pegs are in and the sanding is done i just need about 2 or 3 coats of danish oil and about 3 or 4 more coats of Arm-r-seal. thanks for reading my blog and i look forward to any comments or suggestions.
Well the frame is finally done and its time for the best part the finish
so i started off as usual with a fresh frame sanded to 180
my first 3 coats were General Finishes Natural Danish oil and this really brings out all this hickory's got. i think that this is a prime example of how as Charles Neil stated in his video that the colors that really bring out the wood are the ambers and the yellows (not the exact statement but in the ball park) and i think this is a golden example of that. just to say this also i think that these pictures put this hickory to shame and do not capture the whole beauty of the wood.
next is for protection 3 coats of General Finishes Arm-r-Seal.
and last i rubbed the surface out with #00 steel wool and buffed it with a rag. why #00 and not something finer like #0000? well thats because i don't think that #0000 is coarse enough to smooth out the surface but i have found that the #00 takes down the dust but is still not coarse enough to leave any visible marks. this last step with the steel wool and the buffing produces a silky smooth surface that just makes you want to tell people to touch it (which i have done). So now here is a picture of me with the finished product, the big frame has the mirror in it but the small frame doesn't yet.
So this has been a really fun project but its time to move on and time for other commissions. i think that i have really made a quality piece here and met the requirements of both the finishing and building side of me. the tongue and grooves are nice and tight and shouldn't come apart until the glue life dies so i guess that that will be about 20 years or so of rock solid-ness (this is all with the glue, and when it fails I'm not sure if even they will come apart). also the v grooves were very nice, and with the finishing i have made a finish that a camera can not capture and is silky smooth to the touch. and i know that i have done a good job because there is a knot on the back of the larger frame and with this finish i think that even a knot would look great in a finished piece, lol! So overall this has been a fun project and i have learned a lot!
well here is my newest commission. it is for a pullout trash can thing. i have a couple of sketchup pictures of the box thing so here they are. the first one is of the box itself. the larger compartment is for the pullout trash can compartment, and the top is for a drawer that will be 4" deep. the whole thing will be made out of either oak of red oak. the costumer hasn't decided yet.
then here is the drawer. simple enough. 1/2" poplar dovetailed to make up the drawer and an applied 1/2" oak front.
then is the pullout thing. it pivots on hinges that are mounted on the front and just has a stop crewed in the side of the case so the trash can doesn't come out to far. the front is rail and stile with a raised panel in the middle but i tend on sketchup not to get to detailed i just used it to check proportions and to get an idea of how much lumber i will need.
so thats it for now. hoping to get the lumber either on friday or monday. i can get rough lumber too now that i have a planer and use a sled to mill it. it should be a fun project. have a nice day everyone!
hey everyone,
over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
then i had the panels for the sides to glue up. those glued up nice giving me a minimal glue joint. then i put them through the planer to even the glue joints and bring the boards down to final size because they were glued up oversize. then i trimmed the ends square with my miter gauge
then i cut the sliding dovetails in the case sides for the drawer runners to go. i don't have those done yet but i will have it done soon. i used a 14 degree 1/2" dovetail bit for this.
so here i am at the end of the day with the rails and stiles cut oversize so they can do their moving overnight and i can cut them to final dimensions tomorrow or Wednesday. and the boards that will be glued up for the raised panel. i wouldn't usually glue up for a panel but i doubt i can find a 16" board of sycamore and i can't mill it even if found one. i would bookmatch a piece of 8/4 sycamore too if i could but i don't have access to a bandsaw that big. and i'm left with a big pile of shavings, thats my 3' ruler in the pile and i am measuring about 11".
so thats all for now. should have most done by Thursday and i am hoping to get most of it done before i go on vacation next week. have a nice rest of the day everyone!
well i had some really good shop time today and got alot done. a lot of pictures so i will try to keep text to a minimum. as always first i started off cutting the board to manageable pieces. then milled them 1/8" heavy and let them do their moving and took them down to final size when i needed them.
then i needed to glue up the panel for the top and here i am doing a dry glue up to get everything ready. after the glue up was done and the glue dried i took the panel out. flushed the joints with a block plane, sanded, took the panel to final size and cut the profiles.
then i made the drawer runners and cut the sliding dovetails into them to hold them.
then in the picture above at the bottom you can see a kick plate. this was cut to 3/4" and rabbeted 1/4" to give some more structural support. this will have the hinges on it and since the door is 1/2" thick the 1/4" rabbet leaves it flush with the door and gives it a bit or hold in the back. its just screwed on, to be plugged with ebony later.
the i cut pocket holes in the case sides to hold the top. and then a picture of what i got done today.
thats all for today. tomorrow i will plan on making the door and beginning cutting the dovetails. also i will make and fit the drawer. might even get to finish the drawer sides by spraying a few coats of shellac on. so till tomorrow, have a nice day everyone!
So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
then i sprayed all the pieces with 2 coats of dark wine cherry dye.
and for my topcoat i sprayed on 5 coats of shellac followed by 2 coats of gel poly. you have to use gel poly here because it is made to sit on the surface so scuff up the shellac to create something for it to stick to and put it on. you can't use regular poly because it is made to soak into the wood and that can't happen because the shellac is down. the shellac though protects the dyes from being disturbed when you rub on the gel poly.
then i put what was prefinished together. and installed the drawer using little fillers because i messed up on the dovetails and had to recut them but thats a story for another time.
so thats what i have for now. i still need to put on the drawer front and the pullout door. so that should be done by next week. i also still have one coat of gel poly to do. just to tie everything together like the different intersections. so the ploy does look a little rough right now but thats because i still have one more coat to do. hope everyone liked it, and i hope everyone has a nice day.
well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
then i worked on the pull out thing for the trash can. glued together the rail and stile door with the panel prefinished. the picture though is of the dry fit. forgot to take a picture of the actual glue up.
then it was time to attach the bottom for the trash barrel to sit on. thought long and hard about how to do this. i chose a reverse dovetail to stick up to the downward pressure and i will add corner blocks later to help with shear strength. first i milled the pins into the board that the trash barrel will sit on. used my dovetail jig to make sure that the pins were straight square and everything. also had to repair a little chip out.
next i needed to cut the TAILS half blind into the door. first i marked it. freehanded it with a router to about 1/16" - 1/32" away from the line. then i used a few reference guided to make sure that everything would come out square and even and all that good stuff.
the i finished the rail and stile portion of the door. it was challenging but not really hard. i got the color pretty close
last i glued the bottom onto the door. haven't added the corner blocks yet. going to install them on delivery day to make sure that they are not in the barrels way.
so thanks everyone for bearing with me. this was a little on the long side so i figured that i would get it out now before more things piled up. so thanks for your time, any comments, questions, advice, or whatever you want to say will be greatly appreciated. have a nice day!
well here is the final post in my pull out trash box thing series. figure i'll get right into it.
first i started by adding some 45 blocks to the place where the trash can sits. i had to notch it because that drilling would have been pretty hard without a drill press. i notched it a bit to much though. and i used brass screws. why? because they were the only ones that were short enough to not go through my surface. but to sound smart just in-case someone missed the bucket its good that it won't rust
then put on the brass hinges
and the stop blocks for the door coming out. the trash can is about 12" long so i gave it 13" so you can have some room to get the trash can out and/or change the bag. just make sure that you orient the grain so the expansion and contraction doesn't chance your setting. not that big of a deal in this situation but just good to remember.
last some pictures of the almost finished piece. have one more coat of gel poly to go. should have the finished project posted by the end of the week. you may notice that there are no handles. the costumer wants to pick out here own to make sure that they match her cabinets. they will be installed when i give it to her.
well i hope that everyone liked this series. i look forward to any comments, questions, suggestions, or whatever anyone else has to say. can't wait until my next commissions!
hey everyone,
just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.
then i cleaned up the insides with my number 3 and a card scraper because clean up over the pins after the dovetails are cut will mess with the fit
then i cut the dovetails. i cut them on my Leigh D4R. not much room for creativity on these small pieces.
then i cut all the various corresponding slots in all the sides for the different compartments to hold the money.
last today i glues up all the dovetails. the slots are all lining up from what i can tell. there is no bottom because that will go in later. wish i could have put it in now but i have to finish it and everything and just putting it in later will make the whole thing a whole lot easier. the bottom will be poplar. should be able to color it close to the jatoba which will be colored too
so thats it for now. sometime in the next few days i will go over making the dividers as well as the lid and last the finish. pretty simple project but its a fun one too.
Man, that's a lot of work in a short period of time. You must be getting good at setting up that dovetail jig!!
Maybe I am looking at it wrong, but it looks like one of the slots, for the bottom, goes completely thru the end dovetail. Would a stopped dado have been better there?
So i finally got some work done today on my box. first i started by making the bottom. because i am using thick material for the sides i wanted to add some rigidness to the box so it is a 1/2" thick poplar bottom and i did the bevel with a hand plane. rather than set up machinery or anything.
then it was time to focus on the dividers. these are hard because they are very thin stock and to get them good they have to fit right. so what i did was cut them and did almost what resembles a half lap joint just using my table saw. it takes a lot of setup to get everything right but the result is worth it. here is a picture of the first joint done.
now i know what at this moment you are probably all thinking. expansion and contraction isn't going to be nice to those pieces. so here's my solution.
i just cut the slots longer than they needed to be and since the joint fits the hole to allow for expansion and contraction will not be exposed. i have not finished all the dividers but i figured I'd give a quick update. i am also going to route and chisel out a hollow in the lid to allow the dividers to expand and contract without causing any problems with closing the lid. so next time will probably be finish and i will show the bottom of the box finished. not much going on with the lid. attaching the hinges in such thin stock it really the only other cool thing after the finish. so i hope that everyone likes it and hope that everyone has a nice rest of the week.
Nice work Denis! Planing the bottom is a neat trick. I saw it used on a very old (125 year+) table that my mom gave me. (no, she is not that old- it belonged to her mothers mother!)
i've been building this contemporary bed for about 2 weeks now and I finally have something work posting. This bed is built out of a combination of plywood and poplar as it is to be painted. It has 6 drawers under the piece as well. So to start off The actual bed area where the drawers are is made out of plywood made in a very similar manner to cabinets. More or less it is just 3 cabinets that are screwed together so they can be taken apart later if Need be.
As you can see in this picture I've already started fitting the drawers that are just made out of poplar. The customer wanted the drawers to be large to maximize the space but he couldn't justify the cost of the deep drawer slides so we ended up going with just regular drawers.
but as you can see there is something that looks like a compartment at the end. What that is is more or less a full extension for drawers. If you are doing a very large drawer this is the best way to give it full extension without using drawer slides. That little compartment will never be seen as the drawer stops will be placed to stop at the first divider. Therefore a larger drawer will have a good foot still remaining inside the bed when it is fully extended to the extent of its holding capacity.
also if you notice how the bottom is a different wood. Since its a drawer bottom its not a big deal but it was the best stuff that I could find for the drawer bottoms. It was 15 dollars a sheet and has one face which is flawless. It's a good deal.
well that's all I have for now. Maybe there will be more saturday or sunday when I start to fit and finish the face frames for the bed as well as the head and foot board which are to come as well.
Well there's not much time for a large write up today. I'm just sharing some picture. The bed is nearing completion. All that I am doing as of now is working on the face fraces as well as the final fitting of the drawers. I'm hoping to complete it this weekend. We should have nice weather so that will help me out. After this though it's right on to another commission. Some wall mounted Bubinga writing shelves!
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