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MAKING A TALL STAVE CONTAINER

9K views 57 replies 22 participants last post by  stefang 
#1 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
 

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#2 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Neat.
I would think that you'd rabbet, bevel, glue, and then round the outside with a plane. Seems like the progression that I would take.

Nice job with the coves,
Steve
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Thanks Steve, Yes I will have to bevel before rounding the outside. I haven't yet decided about whether or not I will plane it before after glue-up. Either way it will probably be a little difficult. I would prefer to do it before if possible, but I will have to try it first.
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Just a thought…
Maybe use a bird's mouth joint instead of a bevel. It will be a lot easier to hold together while the glue dries.

It can be cut with a router table or two passes on the table saw.

Steve
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Very interesting Mike you always come up with great projects,thanks for sharing.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Hello Mike,

I made something similar and possibly just like your process did it for the practice with coopering maths.
However I never had much sucess with table saw coving, maybe I should fit up a smaller blade and try again.
What diameter is your saw blade please?

My eyesight must be getting worse as I spent an abnormal amount of time looking at your pictures trying to find the saw blade then realised you have a combo machine and I was looking at the planer section Doh!

The 90 approach in my mind is a better one for repeatabiliy so its worth a second visit/try.

I hope you did a close inspection for residual cement particles on the wood first up !

Overall a very well detailed and explained Blog, I will be looking forward to following it to completion.
 

Attachments

#7 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Very interesting Mike. Don't know if I'll ever make one, but, it's nice to see, and know how to do it.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Nice job so far can't wait for more progress. You have some very interesting projects Miker.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Thanks for the blog Mike as I am still wanting to make a bucket like the one you posted a while ago and this may just get me of the pot and get going .

Klaus
 

Attachments

#10 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Stefan, I agree that you always come up with interesting projects. Great job. It would seem if you knock off the corners with a saw on the outside before handplaning, it would save some hand work. It might help clamping if you made a couple of wooden circles to fit inside while clamping.
Please keep us posted.
 

Attachments

#11 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Interesting what you are doing. It is like a snare drum I have build in the past.

Maybe your lathe is to short but perhaps nice to see is THIS

How will you make your bevels. A deviation of 0.1 degree per bevel is already leading to a gap ioint. I,m not that good as you but I had a lot of trouble to make a correct round piece. Thereby noted that my snare drum had 20 staves.

I have seen also seen a convex/concave glue like HERE (Scroll down to see)
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Thanks everybody for showing an interest in this little project. It will be fun to see how it comes out. It would have been easier with 12 staves instead of 13 because two halves can be glued up and then the glue edges sanded on a flat sanding platter for a perfect fit before joining them. Unfortunately the thinness of my materials, the width and the shallow cove needed forced me go with 13 staves. The last stave will have to be adjusted a little to compensate for angle deviations. The finished thickness of the container will be a little less than 3/8" making it easy to move around.

Steve I don't want to plane after the glue-up due partly due to the large size being clumsy to work with and also the likelihood that I will experience tear-out while planing two boards at one time due to the crazy grain of pine.

Robert I would have preferred a diagonal on the fence if it had been possible, but due to smallness of my blade and the relatively flat curve of the cove, only 90 degrees was possible for this job. Deeper coves are pretty easy and usually a diagonally set fence works. No cement on this wood as I bought it new.

Stevo Not much has to be removed on the outside corners. I'm not sure yet if I will use a hand plane or a spokeshave.

Dutchy Love what you did there with the router jig and you got a perfect result too. I doubt mine will turn out half as good. I would not want to take the time and expense of making the jigs necessary for this simple one time project though. If it had been just a little shorter I could have turned the outside smooth on my lathe and that would have made life a little easier.

I would have like to do the glue-up in one go using the tape and band method shown in your link. I have used this method quite a lot in the past and it works well, but with such long staves I'm worried that I might not be able to get all the glue on before it begins to set. I will just have to decide when the time comes.
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
I would have like to do the glue-up in one go using the tape and band method shown in your link. I have used this method quite a lot in the past and it works well, but with such long staves I m worried that I might not be able to get all the glue on before it begins to set. I will just have to decide when the time comes.

- stefang
Mike you can put glue on half the pieces, so that 2 pieces will stick to each other. Than you do the tape and band method exactly the same as always. Let it dry over night. The next day you remove the band and start glueing the rest and than again start the tape and band method.
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Cool project Mike, I'm following along!
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Yes Jan. I have considered that and I might have to do it that way. After cutting the edge angles I plan to tape it all together first so I can angle the edges of the 13th stave to compensate for the angle error in the other pieces, then after everything is fitted, decide if I will only glue a few staves at a tie as you suggest or all at once.
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Mike, I built a wishing well some time ago and wanted to make a wooden bucket but didn't. This will be an interesting follow. Can't wait for part 2.
 

Attachments

#17 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Glad to see you are back in there, Mike. I assume the exercise machine, and a tincture of time have you fixed up. It will be interesting to see the final product.

I am actually taking a short break. I had been working on a prototype for a cable caddy (where you run a bunch of wires that are frequently changed, usually mostly low voltage stuff) for the last two months, and overdid it a bit. So far the prototype looks good, so I will build a bunch of them in May. For a non-profit organization, so all philanthropic. I will post the final product, since it involves some interesting jig construction, but that will be this summer.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Take a simple idea, make it more complex, and end up with a novel new project.
I want to see the results as I want to try this too!
 

Attachments

#19 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
One thing that will help speed up the process when glueing, and I recommend glueing it all at once, is to use some tape first to hold it all together then put on the band clamps. You can see as I did it here, I used duct tape and it also keeps the glue squeeze out off of the band clamps.
Wood Gas Cylinder Composite material Metal

My staves weren't flat so I didn't tape the miter joints, I usually do, I did a birdsmouth joint.
 

Attachments

#20 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Very interesting Mike, I'll be following with interest.
 

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#21 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Ahhh Mike that looks like a tale I once read and a participated.
Yes you had to do it the right way, no doubt.
How lovely to see you making barrels again.
I will be so happy to see where it ends.
Still all the guests in my shop look at the bucket I made with you and admire it.
I look at the budstikke and smile big time.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

Attachments

#22 ·
Preparing the staves and the bottom.

My son asked me to make him a stave container for his basement hobby shop where he builds custom bicycles. It will serve a dual purpose as a waste basket and a leg for one corner of a wall mounted fold away work bench. The dimensions are 101cm or 39´1/2" tall and 30cm or 12" inside diameter.

It will be made from some cheap pine sold to be used for construction on cement forms. The wood dimensions are 15mm or slightly over 1/2" and a finished width of 7.77cm or about 3". Here are the materials before cutting to length and width. I bought 16 meters or about 52-1/2', enough to include a glued up bottom. see below

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design


This could have been a real simple project. I could have just cut the required angles derived from simple coopering math, glued it together and left it at that, but not much fun, so I decided to hollow out the inside of the staves and round over the outsides so that it would be a smooth barrel once assembled. Not necessary for this project, but I was curious to see how close I could get it rounded and smooth on both sides.

Towards that end, I cut the staves to length and then decided to hollow them out using the coving technique on my table saw. This normally requires setting up a fence on an angle witch will give the sawblade the correct profile to cut the cove and then cutting it in 1/16" height increments, in my case two passes for each of the 13 staves needed. Here is the set-up. Normally the fence in photo 1 would be at a much less that 90 degree angle, but I had to go with 90 degrees because my saw blade diameter is so small (about 19cm or 7-1/4"). Photo 2 is shown with a workpiece see below

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


After much sawdust (on the table and on me) I got all 13 staves finished on the inside. I was pretty tired after this work and I'm glad it's finished. see below

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Automotive design


I also got the bottom glued up and ready to cut out on the bandsaw tomorrow. I still have to round the outside of the staves with a handplane and cut a dado near the bottom of each stave to hold the bottom piece. Lastly I will cut the edge angles on the staves which will allow gluing them into a circle. So still a fair share of work to go. I wouldn't have minded just banding the staves together instead of gluing as it take a fair amount of glue to get the job done and it won't be very easy to clamp either. see below

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


That is it for today. I blogged this just in case there is anybody out there who is thinking about making wooden stave buckets and is looking for an easy way to hollow out the staves on the inside. This work can also be done with a round bottomed hand plane, but with quite a bit more work involved. I will have to do the outside rounding with a hand plane. There would of course be much less work if a short bucket were being made.

Thanks for reading.
Thanks for those comments guys.

jbay I agree that gluing it in one go is the best idea if I have enough time to get all the glue on for all 13 staves. I have progressed to a dry fit and coincidentally I also used cargo band clamps like you did and I found it interesting that you used so many in the middle part. For the dry fit I have only one band at the top and the bottom which left a pretty good sized gap in the middle. I have more cargo clamps which I will be using in the middle to close the gap up.
 

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#23 ·
Making the Dados for the Bottom

Struggling
My apologies for being so late with this follow-up to the first blog in this series. I had to do a lot of work to get our garden into shape for the spring/summer season and it went pretty slow for me this year as I am getting old and decrepit.

Recap
You might recall that I had finished coving the staves for this container on my table saw. This is only going to be a utilitarian item which will serve as a moveable 2nd leg a for wall hinged work bench and I only did the coving for my own benefit to see how it would work out for future containers. I don't intend to round the outside as it is not necessary for it to look good for it's use. I'm making this for my son's hobby bicycle workshop.

The finished coving work leaves me with 13 staves in total. The roundness will not be perfect in this case as I could not get the profile I needed with my small diameter tablesaw blade without sacrificing the width of the bords. The result did come out good enough though to get an idea of what's involved for other containers I might do in the future.

You can find a lots of articles and no doubt many Youtube videos showing how the coving is done on a table saw. This photo shows the coved staves prior to cutting the angles on the edges. See below.


Here is the bottom glued-up and marked out for cutting on the bandsaw. The inner ring is the inner diameter of the container and the outer ring is the total diameter of the bottom including the part between the rings that will be imbedded into the dados. See below.


The staves were all laid on my bench cove side down and taped all the glue vertical joints with a wide masking tape, then I made 5 crossbands of masking tape and curled the staves up to see how well it would go together. So far, so good. See below.


Next, the still taped staves were laid on the bench, cove side up this time, and the dado lines marked for the bottom and then cut lightly with a knife. See below.


The dado outline cuts were deepened with my shoulder knife. This long handled shop-made knife gives incredible leverage without much effort. My reason for doing the dados by hand was to get an even dado deepness throughout the curve of the coves. I didn't feel that it was worth the time to rig some way to do this with a machine as it would have been way too time consuming compared to the 2 hours it took to complete the job with hand tools. See below.


A flat chisel with the bevel side down was used to remove the waste next to the upper and lower lines. The last photo shows the bevel up for removing the waste in the middle, but I used the bevel down for most of that work too. See below.








This photo shows how I managed to work comfortably at the front edge of the bench by letting each stave drop over the edge after it's dado was finished. This also made it easy to remove the chips and dust that accumulated in the glue joint during the chiseling work. See below.


And lastly, the finished dados. You might notice that I went all the way through on one of them. I did this to remind you not to make the same mistake! See below.


The next installment will be the dry fit and the gluing. I hope you will not be expecting anything of beauty to result. thanks for reading.
 
#40 ·
Grand Finale

Big glue-up decision
My last blog in this series left off after chiseling the datos for the bottom of my very tall 'bucket'. The next step was a dry clamping before glue-up, and then I had to decide if I could do it all in one go.

Glue-up
Application of the glue went so fast on the first half that I decided there would be enough time to do both halves before the glue set, so I went with the all-in-one-go approach.

The two glued halves were placed on the bottom and band clamps were placed at the top and bottom ends. This left a pretty good gap in the middle where the halves went together, but the top and bottom joints were all tight so it seemed that if enough clamps were used between the top and the bottom that the whole thing would pull together ok. As you can see it did come together as hoped, but it was necessary to use quite a bit of pressure to get it done. See Below

Wood Gas Machine Cylinder Metal


Band clamp tip
If you use the cargo strap clamps as I have done, the best type would have a length of strap without a hook at the end permanently attached to the ratchet. That will allow a smooth band all the way around providing it is long enough. That way you won't need to hook them together and use the long loose band as I had to do on a couple of them, which can dent your container. Of course you can put some kind of pad under the hooks which might help, but it would be clumsy if you had to adjust the bands position after getting it in place.

Time heals all
That big gap kept me a bit worried that the container would explode when I took off the clamps so I let the glue dry for 48 hours. I'm not sure the extra time made that big a difference, but a cautious approach seemed like a good idea.

I needn't have worried. Everything looked good when the clamps were removed. A little glue residue here and there, but no big problems. I did manage to get the worst squeeze-out from the inside down to arms length with a scraper, but no way to get it all. A good thing to think about if you make something tall like this and it has to be nice inside. Luckily mine doesn't have to be. See Below

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas Cylinder


Wood Plant Natural material Wood stain Tints and shades


Wood Naval architecture Wood stain Composite material Hardwood


Some thoughts about using the table saw cove method
The table saw cove method is pretty good and saves a whole lot of hand planing, but it is pretty dusty and not easy to collect.

If you are making a round container like this you need to match the cove profile with your blade and depending on the size of your saw blade you might have to use more or less staves, which requires also adjusting their width which in turn may require more or less staves. Of course the angle of approach also plays a role in matching your blade to the desire profile.

This was a 'rough' project, but if I were doing something nice I would scrape and/or sand out the coves to smooth any rough spots left by the saw blade. When cutting the angled edges I would probably cut outside the line a little and then hand plane or run the edges in the jointer to smooth them down to final dimension to insure perfect glue joints.

If your container like mine is too long for outside rounding on a lathe, you can hand plane the outside to round. However, unless you have the grain on all the staves glued-up in the same direction you will get a lot of tear-out on one of the two staves being planed at the glue joints. The grain also sometimes reverses on a single board further complicating matters. The best idea is to round the boards individually before glue-up. A profile of the outside curve is useful to keep track of planing progress and final accuracy.

I asked my son if he wanted to have wheels mounted so the container would be easy to move and he said no, but I left the bottom high enough to allow for some small wheels that I have on hand in case he should want them later.

I have since delivered the container to my son and he sent me a photo of it in place. See Below

Table Furniture Cabinetry Desk Wood


Thanks much for reading. I'm glad to answer any questions you might have.
 

Attachments

#41 ·
Grand Finale

Big glue-up decision
My last blog in this series left off after chiseling the datos for the bottom of my very tall 'bucket'. The next step was a dry clamping before glue-up, and then I had to decide if I could do it all in one go.

Glue-up
Application of the glue went so fast on the first half that I decided there would be enough time to do both halves before the glue set, so I went with the all-in-one-go approach.

The two glued halves were placed on the bottom and band clamps were placed at the top and bottom ends. This left a pretty good gap in the middle where the halves went together, but the top and bottom joints were all tight so it seemed that if enough clamps were used between the top and the bottom that the whole thing would pull together ok. As you can see it did come together as hoped, but it was necessary to use quite a bit of pressure to get it done. See Below

Wood Gas Machine Cylinder Metal


Band clamp tip
If you use the cargo strap clamps as I have done, the best type would have a length of strap without a hook at the end permanently attached to the ratchet. That will allow a smooth band all the way around providing it is long enough. That way you won't need to hook them together and use the long loose band as I had to do on a couple of them, which can dent your container. Of course you can put some kind of pad under the hooks which might help, but it would be clumsy if you had to adjust the bands position after getting it in place.

Time heals all
That big gap kept me a bit worried that the container would explode when I took off the clamps so I let the glue dry for 48 hours. I'm not sure the extra time made that big a difference, but a cautious approach seemed like a good idea.

I needn't have worried. Everything looked good when the clamps were removed. A little glue residue here and there, but no big problems. I did manage to get the worst squeeze-out from the inside down to arms length with a scraper, but no way to get it all. A good thing to think about if you make something tall like this and it has to be nice inside. Luckily mine doesn't have to be. See Below

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas Cylinder


Wood Plant Natural material Wood stain Tints and shades


Wood Naval architecture Wood stain Composite material Hardwood


Some thoughts about using the table saw cove method
The table saw cove method is pretty good and saves a whole lot of hand planing, but it is pretty dusty and not easy to collect.

If you are making a round container like this you need to match the cove profile with your blade and depending on the size of your saw blade you might have to use more or less staves, which requires also adjusting their width which in turn may require more or less staves. Of course the angle of approach also plays a role in matching your blade to the desire profile.

This was a 'rough' project, but if I were doing something nice I would scrape and/or sand out the coves to smooth any rough spots left by the saw blade. When cutting the angled edges I would probably cut outside the line a little and then hand plane or run the edges in the jointer to smooth them down to final dimension to insure perfect glue joints.

If your container like mine is too long for outside rounding on a lathe, you can hand plane the outside to round. However, unless you have the grain on all the staves glued-up in the same direction you will get a lot of tear-out on one of the two staves being planed at the glue joints. The grain also sometimes reverses on a single board further complicating matters. The best idea is to round the boards individually before glue-up. A profile of the outside curve is useful to keep track of planing progress and final accuracy.

I asked my son if he wanted to have wheels mounted so the container would be easy to move and he said no, but I left the bottom high enough to allow for some small wheels that I have on hand in case he should want them later.

I have since delivered the container to my son and he sent me a photo of it in place. See Below

Table Furniture Cabinetry Desk Wood


Thanks much for reading. I'm glad to answer any questions you might have.
Very nice , Mike It looks to be about 36" high??
That would be a challenge to bore on the lathe, but to turn the outside would be good with a plug in the open end with a center in it.
it would make a nice drum!!

Jim
 

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