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Morris Chair build ala. Wood Mag. plans #6: Slats, spacers & CNC

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Blog entry by Mainiac Matt posted 03-03-2019 12:20 AM 1122 reads 0 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 5: Tenons anyone? Part 6 of Morris Chair build ala. Wood Mag. plans series Part 7: Corbels anyone ? »

Last weekend I cut the slats for the side frame and the slot in the rails… today I’m making the tiny spacers. I use a gripper to rip the stock to 5/8”

Set up a stop block on the SCMS

I call these my “pinkie savers”

24 pcs 1.25" an 8 pcs 2.875

Pre-sanded them

Moving on… I’ll take door #2

Some of you may know that I also do some hobby metal working and long ago converted a bench top baby mill to CNC controls

I’ve tried cutting wood with the mill, but the spindle only goes up to 2,000 rpm. So a couple years back I cut a block of aluminum on the mill to make a mount for a palm router.

But I haven’t had need/occasion to install it and test it out yet… until today. Baby Makita fits perfectly.

Going to try an 1/8” dia. O-Flute cutter

Here’s the wide center slat installed in the mill vise with the overhanging end supported with a baby machinist jack on a 1-2-3 block

I set the X & Y coordinates by jogging the cutter to the left and bottom edges of the board, then raised the bit and moved over 1/16” for my cutter comp and zeroed both axis. I set Z using a touch off indicator and set Z=0 at 2” above the surface of the work.

I use the popular Mach 3 program to control my mill. I cooked up the G-code using the Enroute software we use at work on Friday.

I did a test run up high above the workpiece to confirm I wasn’t going to crash with the vise or jack, and then cut the first slat

funny piece of scrap…

The good ….. two identical pieces

Dry fit

And now the bad… my short slat spacers were ~1/32” short… but tolerance stack bit me and even though the longer end spacers are supposed to overhang and get trimmed, they came up short. Fortunately, I have one strip of stock left and can re-cut the long spacers

The ugly…. I broke my brand new bit while touching off during my set up :^(
Fortunately, I had another 1/8” dia. bit, which was a two fluter

That’s my progress for today. Tomorrow I’ll fix my mistake and dry fit the complete side frames (posts and all).

Thanks for looking in.

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam



9 comments so far

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Mainiac Matt

9852 posts in 3378 days


#1 posted 03-03-2019 01:41 AM

Here's the mill in action

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

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BlueRidgeDog

787 posts in 829 days


#2 posted 03-03-2019 10:21 AM

Whomever invents a small solid bit that is a bit stronger will be a millionaire. I typically buy them in bulk as they often break for no apparent reason…and often times for good reason!

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Mainiac Matt

9852 posts in 3378 days


#3 posted 03-03-2019 06:42 PM

I ran the program really slow for fear of breaking it again, as I only have the one 1/9” bit left

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

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Mainiac Matt

9852 posts in 3378 days


#4 posted 03-04-2019 01:04 AM

Resawed, planed & sanded the arm boards

Finally glued up the bending form

And when dry, did a test bend of the 3/8” arm boards

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

View 489tad's profile

489tad

3991 posts in 4061 days


#5 posted 03-06-2019 12:26 AM

Great progress. That cnc mill looks fun.

-- Dan, Naperville IL, I.G.N.

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Mainiac Matt

9852 posts in 3378 days


#6 posted 03-06-2019 02:39 AM

I did the dead

What a mess. Who was it that said to slather on the glue. If I didn’t use wax paper the arm rest would be permanently bonded to the form.

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

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Mainiac Matt

9852 posts in 3378 days


#7 posted 03-07-2019 04:00 PM

I took the arm out of the form and clamps last night, joined the curved sides and scraped the top and bottom a little.
The wax paper wound up doing a very good job afterall and nothing was stuck.

I’m going to declare my first attempt at bending to be “mostly” successful. The “spring-back” was only about 1/8” at each end, and it doesn’t take that much force to bring it back into compliance.

But it turns out that I didn’t get the back side of the laminations closed all the way and I have a unsightly gap.

Because I clamped the form to the edge of my bench I couldn’t clamp along both edges, but I planned for this by adding clamp cut outs to the form. But I only put the two of these in and it didn’t allow even pressure along the length. So in between the pockets I used a parallel clamp with a caul, but this didn’t impart enough force on the back edge to close it all the way.

I stuck a feeler gage in the gaps and they appear to be ~1/8” deep. Since I need to cut a curved profile in these That tapers from 5.5” to 3.5”, the gap might disapear…. But if I cut the profile on the side with the gap and it doesn’t disappear that’s now the most visable outside edge, and any any attempt to fill it may look bad when finish is applied.

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

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PPK

1855 posts in 1859 days


#8 posted 05-06-2019 03:15 PM

^ Did you end up cutting out the void? Or filling it?

Its easy to do. I did a big bent lamination (a whole 180 degrees) and ended up with a few voids. It got a frame on it, so it didn’t matter. But nonetheless, it would be nice to not have voids…

-- Pete

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Mainiac Matt

9852 posts in 3378 days


#9 posted 05-06-2019 06:00 PM


^ Did you end up cutting out the void? Or filling it?
- PPK

95% of the void was cut out. There remaining is very small and tight. I’ve tried filling it with Timber Mate 3 times and each time, it all comes out of the tiny crevice when I sand it.

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

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