Morris Chair build ala. Wood Mag. plans #5: Tenons anyone?

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Blog entry by Mainiac Matt posted 02-16-2019 11:41 PM 1125 reads 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 4: Cleaned up mortices and chamfered feet Part 5 of Morris Chair build ala. Wood Mag. plans series Part 6: Slats, spacers & CNC »

Mounted the new FTG rip blade and dig out my shop built tenonig jig.

Set blade height

Adjusted jig stops to get stock square

Set the fence compensating for the 1” thick jig plate and away I go

Despite my best measuring and making a test cut, I managed to cut the first one too thin

This is more like it. I want to be a pube over so I can fit tightly with a shoulder plane

Cleaned up the hairy edges and hand cut the whisper left over

The scraps gave me an idea to fix the skinny miscut

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

8 comments so far

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Mainiac Matt

9852 posts in 3378 days

#1 posted 02-16-2019 11:52 PM

Time for some shop chores

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

View stefang's profile


17040 posts in 4384 days

#2 posted 02-17-2019 12:37 AM

Good save with the tenons. I have done that many times myself and the tenon is just as good!

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

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Mainiac Matt

9852 posts in 3378 days

#3 posted 02-17-2019 01:23 AM

I’m debating how do cut the tenon edges.

I could try to do them on the tenoning jig, but I’m not sure how well it will hold the stock in this orientation.


I could just set up the dado stack and do them with the miter gauge fence guiding the stock. My dado stack is not the greatest and doesn’t leave a nice flat bottom, but only the very ends of the thru tenon edges will be exposed.

Hmmm…. decision, decisions.

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

View Andre's profile


4439 posts in 2855 days

#4 posted 02-17-2019 07:00 AM

I picked up a 24 tooth FTG from LV a few years back, a Dimatar I think amazing blade.
I usually just cut the shoulders with a sled, also pre mark the tenons with a marking gauge to prevent chips and them fuzzes?

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View EarlS's profile


4392 posts in 3397 days

#5 posted 02-17-2019 03:35 PM

Unfortunately, I use a dado stack when I cut tenons so I can’t use that trick. The Leigh FMT Pro M&T jig keeps me out of trouble since it is already dialed in with templates to give a nice tight fit.

-- Earl "I'm a pessamist - generally that increases the chance that things will turn out better than expected"

View firefighterontheside's profile


21381 posts in 2906 days

#6 posted 02-17-2019 04:36 PM

I’ve always thought it was odd tenoning jugs were made to cut the cheeks, but not the edges. Maybe you should slap together a jig made for cutting edges. On the few M&T projects I’ve done I make all my waste the same size so that I can set up a stop and run the piece thru four times with the miter gauge and have 4 perfectly matching shoulders.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View builtinbkyn's profile


3027 posts in 1990 days

#7 posted 02-17-2019 04:59 PM

Nice progress Matt and good save using the off cuts to build up the tenon that was a bit thin. Just curious about cutting the cheeks before the shoulders. Not claiming one way or the other is more proper, but cutting the shoulders first leaves a clean edge that doesn’t have the feathered edges. I guess it’s a pins or dovetails first kind of thing lol

-- Bill, Yo! Brooklyn & Steel City :)

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Mainiac Matt

9852 posts in 3378 days

#8 posted 02-24-2019 09:03 PM

Finished up the shoulder cuts. Decided to stick with the tenoning jig on TS

Not too shabby

Made long chamfer cuts on TS (sorry, no pic) and did the short ones by hand with a block plane.

Decided to cut the slat grooves on the router table. I like to use shims and make shift gage blocks to set the fence

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

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