Tea Bag Holder Cabinet

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Blog series by sras updated 03-19-2021 03:30 AM 11 parts 7072 reads 90 comments total

Part 1: Getting started

02-05-2021 06:01 PM by sras | 4 comments »

A few years ago a friend gave me several walnut boards that came from a tree in his father in law’s yard. Rather than pay him I offered to build something for him. After some discussion we settled on a box for a set of tea bag holders that his wife uses. There are 4 in the set. After more years than I care to admit I have a chance to get to this build. We settled on a small cabinet with Art Deco styling taken from old radios. Both the bag holders and the radios are from a similar...

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Part 2: Second day of the build

02-06-2021 12:54 AM by sras | 8 comments »

Next up is to create a second level similar to the first. A 5/16” straight bit allowed me to leave 1/8” on the outside. Grooves are cut into both sides of both pieces. Then set up the 1/8” ovolo bit to round over the edge. That takes care of the outer surface details for now. Next up is the back and the sides. A portion of each side is part of the doors. A straight bit is set up for a rabbet to accept the sides and the back. T...

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Part 3: Some steps back and a few more forward

02-07-2021 03:07 AM by sras | 7 comments »

First up today was to correct a mistake I made yesterday. When I cut the back rabbet on the top I had the part turned around. I have been keeping parts aligned so the grain pattern runs across the top and down the front. With this mistake the grain didn’t line up at all. So I cut a filler piece from some scrap. I cut it slightly oversize on the thickness and width. The length matches the top. Some glue and clamps. After the glue set up I trimed the patch to fit. ...

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Part 4: Final details on the main cabinet

02-07-2021 11:39 PM by sras | 10 comments »

I need to put a cutout on each of the 3 shelves and floor. For this I need a template. Make the cutout on a template. Then locate a shelf on the template blank. Glue a cleat on each side. Draw the cutout on each piece. The next 3 steps are shown here. Rough cut on bandsaw (middle), route with template (bottom), and sand profile (top). Here’s a piece ready for routing The template provides extra support while rounding the first edge. The s...

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Part 5: Door construction

02-09-2021 03:40 AM by sras | 2 comments »

The door blank needs to be split into 2 parts – a door top and a door front. I’m going to join them with a mitered rabbet joint. I cut the step for the rabbet on the router table. The rest of the cuts were done on the table saw. I made sure I had the blade set at an exact 45 degrees. It took a bit few passes to sneak up on the fit. I was so involved I forgot to take any set up pictures. Here is the result. I then glued the mitered rabbet as the first as...

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Part 6: Box Assembly

02-12-2021 02:30 AM by sras | 4 comments »

This entry covers the last 3 days. I got the door assembly out of the clamps. So far so good. And here is where all the time went. It took 2 days to get the finish right on the interior surfaces. I masked off any surface that would accept glue later. Time for a side project while the finish dries. My hinges came with #2 sized screws. If I open up the countersinks I can use a #4 which has a lot more holding power. I used my sacrificial block from cutting the hinge notc...

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Part 7: More work on the doors

02-17-2021 03:54 AM by sras | 5 comments »

I’m still at work on this. Had a couple days out of the shop – couldn’t keep it warm. A lot of the work here is slow – plenty of time at work with little to see. The doors get some decorative strips on them. I chose to put the grooves in before I separated the doors. I use a 3/32” bit in my router table. The fence and stops allowed me to accurately locate the grooves – until I misread my tape measure :) I used a chisel and sanding to get...

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Part 8: Door work continues

02-19-2021 04:09 AM by sras | 15 comments »

I have one more set of details to add to the door – a set of 3 circular recesses. First – make a template. Then add cleats to locate the doors vertically. And add cleats to lock in the position side to side. Remove the doors to make sure there is no glue on them Add a strap across the back to keep every thing in place Set up a guide collar on the router table. Cut all three pockets. I made several passes to get to full depth. The...

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Part 9: The base is created

03-01-2021 04:08 AM by sras | 15 comments »

Several distractions over the past several days meant the base took a while to complete. First was to create a template for a document slot. A little creative clamping. And we have a template. Set the router table up with a guide bearing bit and double stick tape the template in place. And we have a pocket roughed out. All that was left was to square up the corners. The rest of the base work involves several settings on the router table. Last time I tried...

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Part 10: Inserts for doors

03-09-2021 03:30 PM by sras | 11 comments »

Lots of little pieces in this entry! I started with the half circles – largest one first. Since this spalted maple can be fragile I prefinished the wood. To dial in the fit I use my disc sander. But I turn the disc by hand – usually only a couple inches of travel at a time. That way I can safely place my hand close to the disc and limit how much wood gets removed. First one done. My fingernail dented the wood enough that I had to sand back most of the finis...

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Part 11: Finishing touches

03-19-2021 03:30 AM by sras | 9 comments »

Since this cabinet is so small I ended up buying some artists brushes for oil paints. They really helped with the application of the oil based polyurethane. I built up several coats to get a fairly glossy finish. I decided to finish the ebony strips separately to prevent any finish build up along them. I also took care to keep the grooves free of finish. I let the parts set for a week to give the finish time to harden. Then it was only a matter of gluing the strips in ...

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