Tea Bag Holder Cabinet #2: Second day of the build

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Blog entry by sras posted 02-06-2021 12:54 AM 984 reads 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Getting started Part 2 of Tea Bag Holder Cabinet series Part 3: Some steps back and a few more forward »

Next up is to create a second level similar to the first.

A 5/16” straight bit allowed me to leave 1/8” on the outside.

Grooves are cut into both sides of both pieces.

Then set up the 1/8” ovolo bit to round over the edge.

That takes care of the outer surface details for now.

Next up is the back and the sides. A portion of each side is part of the doors.

A straight bit is set up for a rabbet to accept the sides and the back.

The front and top get rabbets for the sides.

And the top & sides get rabbets for the back (the back is thinner than the sides)

I got a bit of tear out on one of the sides. I’ll deal with that later.

Final step of the day is to set the width of the back to fit between the sides.

That wraps up today. I don’t want to make too many mistakes so I move on to other projects once I feel the need to take a break.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

8 comments so far

View htl's profile


5624 posts in 2614 days

#1 posted 02-06-2021 01:31 PM

Very interesting!!!
It’s kind a fun trying to figure out where you going with this?
I never did this with any of my builds. LOL

-- An Index Of My Model making Blogs

View sras's profile


6697 posts in 4584 days

#2 posted 02-06-2021 02:22 PM

Thanks Bruce! I thought it would add some fun to reveal the design a little at a time.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View Tim Dahn's profile

Tim Dahn

1628 posts in 5020 days

#3 posted 02-06-2021 03:45 PM

We already know there is a door ;). Thanks for showing the ovolo bit to round over the edge!

-- Good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from poor judgement.

View sras's profile


6697 posts in 4584 days

#4 posted 02-06-2021 04:06 PM

Thanks Tim – ovolo bits are not very common but sometimes it’s just the right thing!

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View James E McIntyre's profile

James E McIntyre

1885 posts in 2747 days

#5 posted 02-06-2021 10:41 PM

Lots of great work and details. I always enjoy seeing projects with progress photos.

Would a sacrificial piece work with that fancy woo-be-gone bit to prevent tear out?

Almost had to buy one of those ovolo bits for a project I was working on but figured out another approach.
They seem very similar to a beading bit.

-- James E McIntyre

View sras's profile


6697 posts in 4584 days

#6 posted 02-07-2021 01:32 AM

Thanks James – Actually that tear out was on the leading edge. The grain just goes a bit wild right there. If I had been thinking I would have shifted where I cut that part to avoid the grain.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View Dutchy's profile


4370 posts in 3623 days

#7 posted 02-07-2021 09:24 AM

- sras

The wood is quite cross-grained. This is the industrial companies’ way to avoid tear out: to avoid it you can make a saw cut from about 2 mm, or make a first routing pass from about 2 mm deep. Industrial milling / sawing is sometimes done with climb milling. Be aware that climb milling by manual feed can be VERY dangerous.

Sometimes I do climb milling with a very small round over bit or by making a very undeep saw cut, like a scoring sawblade would do.


View sras's profile


6697 posts in 4584 days

#8 posted 02-07-2021 04:37 PM

Good tips Jan. I wasn’t really paying that close attention to the grain. If I had I would have had a chance to address the risk. Luckily it’s on the back. I’ll try to improve the look later.

I also will do climb cuts at times. Sometimes I’ll do a conventional cut on all but the last millimeter or so. Then climb cut the last millimeter.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

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