PITA - chip out

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Blog entry by slydog posted 02-27-2019 03:05 PM 589 reads 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I’ve posted previously on building dartboards. I’m in the process of doing another. I just wanted share a misery piece – maybe someone has some thoughts on how to prevent it. I was building the door panels and routing the edges when as I routed across the end grain, the bit must have caught and chipped out interior edge – talk about a bad day!!!! I couldn’t see anyway to correct it so It became a member of the scrap bin (I so hate wasting red-oak).

-- slydog, Houston

6 comments so far

View BlueRidgeDog's profile


629 posts in 417 days

#1 posted 02-27-2019 03:18 PM

Wow. That is as bad as I have seen. Two suggestions, always use a backer board and check your bit for issues. Well three…some wood is primed and ready to split so a good visual before selecting my help as well.

View slydog's profile


26 posts in 2101 days

#2 posted 02-27-2019 03:28 PM

Thanks @BlueRidgeDog. It might be the bit was dull or it was just the grain. Looking at the grain, it is set up for chipping out and putting in a backer board may have prevented me from losing that 3 foot piece. A short piece of pine is certainly a lot cheaper then re-doing oak :P

-- slydog, Houston

View htl's profile


4925 posts in 1797 days

#3 posted 02-27-2019 06:15 PM

Maybe shape it in two or more passes?

-- An Index Of My Model making Blogs

View pintodeluxe's profile


6063 posts in 3451 days

#4 posted 02-27-2019 07:13 PM

Routing counterclockwise, and end grain first is the normal direction. Take 3-4 passes and raise the bit a little each time until you reach the desired profile. I usually don’t have to do a backup block when I follow these rules.

For the final skim pass, it’s acceptable to rout clockwise for a “climb cut”. As long as you are taking a very light cut and have a good grip on the router, it produces a really clean cut.

Good luck!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View CaptainKlutz's profile (online now)


2450 posts in 2132 days

#5 posted 02-27-2019 08:46 PM

+1 when cutting end grain without backer board, usually take a short (1/4”) clockwise ‘climb cut’ to help prevent end splintering.

+1 Also never attempt more than 1/4” of wood removal on end grain, unless using backer board, usually with help of coping sled. Large/deep cut in end grain is a tear out accident just waiting to happen.

IME – Surface of cut shows signs of dull bit? If just burning would have guessed inconsistent feed rate, or wood was not clamped to coping sled and moved at end of cut when tear out grabbed the bit. But the fuzz is sign but is dull.

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View slydog's profile


26 posts in 2101 days

#6 posted 02-28-2019 08:03 AM

Thanks all for the comments. I’ll need to be a bit more patient, I suspect. Thanks!

-- slydog, Houston

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