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I lowered the base plate of the circular saw until the blade didn't stick through. I used heavy duty double sided tape to adhere a 3/16 inch scrap birch ply piece. I then turned on the saw and lowered it through the birch ply creating the zero clearance.
As you can see in the last picture I needed to cut apart some large sheets in my garage. Normally my circular saw will leave all kinds of tear out behind in its wake with plywood. This time it didn't. I should have done this a long time ago.



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786 Posts
Here's my two cents: I agree with Barry, to an extent. I have worked, in the past, with a contractor's crew that had all the circular saws on the job bare bladed. They would wedge the blade guard open. This made compound cuts much, much easier. Anyone looking on would say tsk! tsk! . But everyone on that job knew this was the case, and knew not to set the saw down except on a special scrap piece of wood, where you would apply the "manual brake".

I have also had a circular saw on which the blade guard sometimes stuck, resulting in a bare blade, but only sometimes. This did not bother me, as I had conditioned myself (thru working with the above crew) to always check the blade after making the cut.

Which situation was the more dangerous?

I guess what I'm trying to say is don't take the blade guard on a circ. saw for granted. If you put one down and it has a bare blade, the odds are good that it will run over your foot.

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90 Posts
this is awesome. I've been looking for a couple hours now for a good circ saw tearout solution! I'm doing this tonight with some scrap pergo i've got.

Thanks for posting this!