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From the moment I first saw a wood strip canoe, I knew I wanted to build one. I researched and found Bear Mountain Boat company online. (Note: There are a lot of companies to consider. I chose Bear Mountain because I really liked their online building forum that allowed me to read about a lot of other people's experiences with their builds. I found this extremely helpful as I ran into different challenges along the way). I purchased a set of plans for their Hiawatha canoe, a copy of Canoecraft by Ted Moores, and off I went. The pictures I posted show various parts of the construction process.

Picture #1 is the finished product sitting on my lawn the day I finished her up.
Picture #2 shows a variety of things. First, I am in the process of milling the wood. I bought 16' lengths of western red cedar that I ripped to slightly larger than 1/4". I am in the process of planing all the lengths down to precisely 1/4". You can see on the table that the strips are grouped together. This is so I can keep track of the color variations in the wood and helps in the selection process when planks are installed on the forms. After planing the wood, I sent all the strips through the router to receive a bead and cove on opposite ends of the planks. You can also see the skeleton of forms on the left side of this picture.
Picture #3 shows me stripping one side of the forms. I glued up three strips at a time alternating between sides. My shop is kind of small, so I had to slide the strongback (what everything sits on) back and forth so I could alternate between sides. The cedar is so light that this wasn't as big a deal as I thought it might be.
Picture #4 shows me fiberglassing the outside of the hull. This step intimidated me the most and wasn't as bad as I envisioned. Fiberglassing the inside was a little more challenging due to tight spots at the ends of the canoe, but, overall, I worried way too much about this step.
Picture #5 shows the trimming out of the hull. The gunwales are installed as well as the yoke and the seat frames. This felt more like woodworking than any other part of the process. You can get very creative with how you trim the canoe. I kept it pretty simple.
Picture #6 shows launch day. January of 2012 was the launch. That picture is me shoving off for the first time.

If you ever thought about building a wood strip canoe, I would strongly encourage you to do it. I found the build to be one of the more rewarding projects I have done. And it is easily the most complimented. There is just something about a wood canoe.

One more thought. I chose the Hiawatha design because I liked the look of the curved ends (challenging to trim out, as it turns out) on a canoe (more traditional in my opinion). It also was advertised as an easy canoe to paddle (I am a novice paddler), and it seated two. The canoe measures just over 15' in length with a beam of 33.5" and weighs right at 50 pounds.

Gallery

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Thanks, everyone, for the kind words. I can't stress enough how much I enjoyed building the canoe. If you ever thought about doing it, I strongly encourage you to go for it. There is a lot of help available online when you get stuck, and fixing errors is something us woodworkers are very adept at (at least I am!).
 

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That my friend is a work of art. Something you should be proud of. I hope it brings you years of pleasure.
 

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I bought a homemade cedar strip canoe from the widow next door for $100. It measures out at just under 17'. It hangs in my woodshop/garage and never fails to draw the most attention from visitors. I've been offered ten times the price paid but wouldn't part with it for twenty. On close inspection, the builder was a novice i.e.(included knots) and needs a bit of TLC to bring it back up to snuff i.e.(glass patching & refinishing). I use the West Systems epoxies too. Great stuff. What brand of finish did you use over the epoxy? I bought a few quarts of Epiphanes on sale last year and have them earmarked for the refurb. Any suggestions?

BTW, I live in Lakeland.

always,
J.C.
 

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Jcees - $100 was a steal, regardless of condition. I used the Epiphanes varnish and am very pleased with the results. Pricey stuff, but all the reading I did indicated that people were always happy with the finished product.
 

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Beautiful! However…......I was looking at the last picture of its maiden voyage and didn't see a fishing rod in the canoe. Or is that for a future trip?
BTW, what are the seats made of?
 

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I recently finished building the same model canoe but I haven't had a chance to take it out yet :( everything is frozen. I'm curious how it handles?
 

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Great looking canoe! I've built 4 canoes when I was a leader in the Boy Scouts and we raffled them off. The boys had a great time doing it and it brought us lots of money.
 

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Iowa - It paddles real easily but is more "tippy" than I had imagined. That surprised me when we first took her out. Fortunately, we get a lot of calm water in Florida, so it isn't a problem. A more experienced paddler might not even notice.

Knothead - The frames are made from maple with some type of poly strapping that is stapled underneath. I searched for the best material on one of the building forums, but forget the exact material. They are very comfortable. I was planning to cane the seats but ran out of time. I thought I might do that later, but now I seriously doubt it. And no fishing rod for me. Never got the fishing bug.
 

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Beautiful work.

RE: the "tippy-ness" of your canoe. When I made mine, I found it to be tippy too. What I had to do was lower the seats to lower the center of gravity.

I noticed that your seats are attached to the gunwales. If you lower the seats down about 5-7 inches, you'll see that it will be less tippy. Here is an experiment you can try to see what I'm talking about. Get into your canoe and don't sit on the seats but on the bottom of the canoe. You'll find it is less tippy.

Take a look at my canoe and where the seats are located

Good luck.
 
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