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Wall-Mount Lumber Rack (Mullet-Style)

GadgetsAndGrain · Oct 17, 2017 · Updated Sep 19, 2022 ·
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GadgetsAndGrain · Oct 17, 2017 · Updated Sep 19, 2022 ·
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joining kreg lumber rack miter saw pocket hole joinery shop organization shop projects storage

Project Information

How to Build a Wall-Mount Lumber Rack (on YouTube)

My workshop will always need to be a garage first and woodworking shop second. To help with my lumber storage, I decided to build my own lumber rack. I scoured Pinterest for ideas, but I couldn't quite find a design that mounted to a wall while still being able to storage large sheets of plywood and long boards simultaneously.

I decided to make my own design where sheets of plywood would be stored in a large framed shelf, while sporting the traditional arm shelves for storing long boards. I also added some small cubbies for storing small cut-offs and specialty pieces of lumber. In a phrase, this lumber rack is all about boards in the front and big sheet goods in the back - head the name "Mullet-style" lumber rack.

The construction of the rack starts with attaching 2×4s to the wall studs with 4 1/2" lag screws. From there, I attached the frame of the rack, which was primarily supported by 2×8s board. The boards attached to the supports with the Kreg HD pocket screw for extra strength. I then attached the remaining parts of the frame (2×4 boards) with more HD pocket screws.

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Comments

Desert_Woodworker

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WOW! Nice project, but even better is your "blog link". The project's that you show are excellent! I especially like that use you use tools that are common in a lot of wood shops. Looking forward, to seeing more.
 
ScottM

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Looks good, but have you done any weight testing with the pocket screws?
 
GadgetsAndGrain

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Looks good, but have you done any weight testing with the pocket screws?

- ScottM
Click to expand...
Great question. I didn't do any preliminary testing myself, but in researching before the build, I decided to go with the Kreg HD screws. Kreg states that each joint exceeds the 200 lb. load test for two screws. The bottom supports in this lumber rack are 2×8s, each with 3 screws attaching them to the vertical supports - so I feel pretty good about the strength. Here's a link to Kreg's documentation on this.

Another good sign what that each bottom arms (the 2×8s) the rack could support my 175 lbs. body.


And then I pushed the rack to the limit after a lumber run to Home Depot (pictured below). Didn't hear any crackling of wood :)
 

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Underdog

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Looks good, but have you done any weight testing with the pocket screws?

- ScottM
Click to expand...
Having had a shelving system come down with a load of lumber on it (see my projects), I would be concerned about this also.
I would, at the very least, put some gussets on each side of each arm. I'd probably put a gusset/ bracket underneath each arm as well. And perhaps at least one or two more pocket screws…

I really like the idea of being able to store sheet goods behind the rack.
 
DustyM

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Oh, man, I've been looking for a good sheet-goods and cut-off solution, and I think this is it!
 
Kilo19

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Love the design…Several rows for "lumbered" items. With my "small" goings on I don't do much with sheet goods, but I like how a 3×8?(maybe 4×8) sheet of plywood could slide in there. Maybe not for a commercial cabinet shop, but if you have like one or two sheets? (like myself) this would work out perfectly.

Nice work, have to watch the vid 2nite.
 
woodbutcherbynight

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Good idea, seems to be well attached to the wall and such. One thing I would suggest. A small notecard attached to one of your arms with a date saying when the unit was last checked for wear, i.e. cracks and such. Crazy I know but several here have had accidents with these coming off the walls unexpectedly. Inspecting it would be good practice, as you say the car shares the shop. Coming out to go to work one day and finding all that lumber on the car is not going to make your day. If it is the spouses car, well you know how that works…..

LOL
 
DaleMaley

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Neat design concept, but I also have concerns about using Kreig pocket screws in heavy load applications. I tried them in early summer 2017, when I was framing up a mock jail for the city. I also decided to stand on a 2×4 horizontal cedar piece while finishing the framing…........and the joints failed…....and I ended up on my rear end!!

I used 2.5 inch long deck screws for most of the framing work I do, and I'm sticking with them versus Kreig pocket screws. The Kreig pocket screws have their place in furniture building…........but I don't like them for structural framing applications.

If it was me, I would beef up your design as others have suggested.
 
TheDoGoodGirl

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Your lumber rack is BOSS! Great job! Did you fasten the frame into the drywall at all? If so what did you use and what are your thoughts on toggle bolts?
 
Desert_Woodworker

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Gadgets- you lucky dog :) The "DoGood Girl" never posted on my projects :(
 
TheDoGoodGirl

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Well, 'Desert Woodworker' your tack room table isn't to shabby either…or maybe it is a little shabby/chic! Well done
 
GadgetsAndGrain

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Your lumber rack is BOSS! Great job! Did you fasten the frame into the drywall at all? If so what did you use and what are your thoughts on toggle bolts?

- TheDoGoodGirl
Click to expand...
Thanks! Yes - the whole rack is attached to the wall (and into the studs) using 4 1/2" lag screws with a washer.


I don't have my experience with toggle bolts, but it seems the are best suited for attaching something only to drywall and no stud. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong here.

I dig your YouTube channel btw. Subscribed!
 

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GadgetsAndGrain

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Neat design concept, but I also have concerns about using Kreig pocket screws in heavy load applications. I tried them in early summer 2017, when I was framing up a mock jail for the city. I also decided to stand on a 2×4 horizontal cedar piece while finishing the framing…........and the joints failed…....and I ended up on my rear end!!

I used 2.5 inch long deck screws for most of the framing work I do, and I m sticking with them versus Kreig pocket screws. The Kreig pocket screws have their place in furniture building…........but I don t like them for structural framing applications.

If it was me, I would beef up your design as others have suggested.

- DaleMaley
Click to expand...
Really appreciate the feedback here. I'm thinking about making another video about this topic. These are supposed to be "heavy duty" pocket screws, and I should have tested this all out before committing to the design. Any thoughts on how to conduct a little science experiment to test the breaking point of pocket screws? :
 
TheDoGoodGirl

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Thanks for your advice on this GadgetsAndGrain and the Lag screws/washer tip. I am figuring out how to build a lumber rack for my garage but also need to be able to park my minivan in as well. TRICKY! Thank you for your help and for your YT subscription. I love being in a community where encouragement and experience is key and greatly valued.
 
dannmarks

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I agree that you should put Gussets on both sides and make them from Ply wood as it is stronger that regular wood. 200 LBS across that many boards - it should be OK. However, better safe than sorry. I used welded 4 ' angel iron - but my shelves were 4 ft deep with loads of ply wood on them.

Great job and well done. We just care enough to get after you about it.
 
woodbutcherbynight

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I see opportunity. Build a heavy duty workbench under the entire thing and let it sit on top. Add gussets as suggested. Now all that weigh is supported by both the wall and the floor via the bench. PLUS you get all that storage space underneath to put stuff.

Next thing to do is service a notice to the car / truck. It is hereby evicted!!!

LOL
 
bmilcs

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This is a fantastic design. I'm leaning toward simple wall brackets, made of 2×4, but I do dig this.

Do you find it sticks too far out from the wall? I imagine you've had this for quite a while now and I'm curious if you'd make any changes to it.

Thanks!

PS: My rudimentary idea:

https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/306409
 

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