Tissue Box Finish Experiment

With some newly rediscovered QSWO and walnut during my wood storage revamp. I decided I wanted to test some finishes on fumed wood.

Tissue boxes were the answer, limited amount of wood required, quick to build, and everyone says they look better that the plain cardboard box normally on display 8^)

The experiment kinda failed.

My test was going to be three levels of fuming on quarter sawn white oak, followed by three different colors of "toner". My test wood was rather light colored so it had minimal tannins to react to the fuming. Using Ace hardware brand ammonia (10%), I planned on 4h, 8h, and over night exposure levels.
The first 4 hours looked good, the 8 hour version looked the same, and the overnight looked ever so slightly darker.

So much for plans! The fuming was fully saturated after the first four hours, should have done 1h, 2h, 4h instead.

My second test was to seal the pieces with a wash of amber shellac, followed by some gel stain to highlight the pore texture and maybe better expose the flecking.

All I could find was some "Jet Mahogany" Bartley's and Cherry Minwhacks. not much of a selection. The third treatment was no toning, just the shellac.

So, basically all the units look the same 8^)

8 hour fuming, Jet mahogany toner


Overnight fuming, cherry toner


4 hour fuming, no toner (just amber shellac sealer)


The stain did highlight the pores, but that's about it!

Experiment over, so I'll turn this into a LJ project to save face 8^)

To the tissue box!

Quarter sawn white oak, walnut top/bottom (lots of sap wood).

The oak was 5/4 stock so I re sawed this into three lengths for three boxes (about 5/16" thick)
The sides were cut with 3/8" finger joints, left slightly proud of the surface with beveled edges.


Tops are 5/8" walnut from pieces I had with mostly sap wood (amber shellac). I used my oval template to create the hole. The majority of the hole was cleared out with a BP bit, template DS taped to the top, then a top/bottom bearing bit was used to create the hole.





The T/B bearing pattern bit (above) made it easy to have all cuts with the grain going "downhill". This results in zero tearout/chipping to deal with.



Cut the downhill portions, flip the workpiece so the template is on top, lower the bit so the top bearing rides the template, finish the cut.

A roundover bit eases the hole edges.


Another few passes with a straight bit and the fence set provides a rabbet to lock in with the box.

A second template with the exact same outer dimensions was made with 12mm BB plywood. This provides a guide for the fingernail bit. This is required because without it, the piece can't ride along the fence while doing a full profile cut.



I also eased the otherwise sharp corner slightly.

The base is a simple mitered frame with recesses cut for the picture frame turn buttons to secure the tissue box insert.


If I had made the sides about 1/4" shorter, The recess for the turn buttons could have been much shallower (and better!)

If it is going to sit on a surface that should not be scratched, some felt pads are a welcome addition. I use the self-stick pads that are about 1/8" thick. Tired of seeing these fall off, I recess them into a shallow hole so only a small amount is exposed. Doing this keeps them in place forever and makes the box sit flushed to the table top.

For 12 holes in the corners, setting up a simple DP jig saves time in marking and drilling.


I still apply a dab of epoxy to make sure these buggers don't fall out.


There they be!


Thanks for following along 8^)