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Made some solid timber framing sawhorses on the weekend. Made of 5" Cypress, mortise and tenon joints, draw-bored with 3/4" oak pegs. A little overkill in terms of bulk and strength but I had that cypress left over from another project. Going to start a small timber framing project soon so these will soon earn their keep. What do you think? Too chunky? Or, like a workbench, is heavier and more solid better?

Cheers, Dom

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Nice job, purpuss built, and look good what more could you ask for.
Nothing worse than a wobbly saw horse, and as you had the timber why not.

A question: I notice a lot of your machines have wheels on them but they are solidly ducted, being a bit curious I tried to look in your workshop window but could not see anything!
 

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These look great. Never seen an angled mortise/tenon like that, does it increase strength?
 

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Hi Ron, "his" name is Roi; he won t be very happy to hear that haha

- WoodWheeler

LOL! Please extend my apology to Roi.

- Ron Aylor
Haha, no worries Ron, I've passed on your apology to Roi. He was… indifferent :).

Thanks guys! They are definitely bulky and like some of you have stated will likely be beneficial for stability but at the expense of my back when moving around! Hopefully I appreciate the stability more than lament the weight.

Cheers,

Dom
 

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A question: I notice a lot of your machines have wheels on them but they are solidly ducted, being a bit curious I tried to look in your workshop window but could not see anything!

- robscastle
Hi Rob,

Yeah, I have all the big machines on wheels so that I can move them if ever required. They rarely get moved around, but if I need to move them to make space I can. The ducting can be disconnected with minimal effort. I'll take some photos and upload to my workshop window when I get some time.

These look great. Never seen an angled mortise/tenon like that, does it increase strength?

- bobasaurus
Allen, the angled mortise and tenon is a shouldered, wedged, half-dovetail mortise and tenon - basically it's a good tension joint as the shear area becomes the length and thickness of the tenon as in order for the joint to fail in tension the half-dovetail part of the tenon would need to shear off. If you just used a regular M&T in a tension joint (not the case here anyway) you only have the shear area of the pegs stopping the joint coming apart - this is assuming no glue which is the case for timber-framing. I intend on using this joint for my Tie-Beam to Post joinery in my mini timber-frame build, which will be in tension from the rafters trying to push the posts apart, so figured I would try it out here. Not sure if that makes sense.

Cheers,

Dom
 

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That is a nice set of horses, look very sturdy. Did you design your own or are these from a set of plans. Looking to build a set for a project I want to start this year.
 
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