Project Information
Having snagged an excellent used Jet Hollow Chisel Mortiser late last year, I needed to acquire a good tenoning jig. I found the plans for one in ShopNotes that seemed to offer all the features of the reasonably expensive, metal jigs sold for table saws. I had all the baltic birch ply laying around that I needed. I also had most of the hardware needed. I spent an additional 15 bucks for the threaded rod and a few pieces of hardware I was lacking. As I was preparing to post this I did a search on LJ and lo and behold I found several others of this same or similar design. Thought I'd still post mine. The others I found here were rather old so maybe this will appeal to those new to LJ who were looking for something similar.
All the wood in this is 3/4" baltic birch ply with the exception of the walnut runner for the mitre slot and the poplar scrap I used for the hold-down bar and the backstop. Well, also there are two 1/8" hardboard strips that act as runners on the underside of the table for slots in the base.
This thing works great. I especially like the threaded rod assembly that let's you bang out lots of tenons of the same dimensions once you get the stops set correctly. No need to remove and flip your piece. Just loosen the table lock, slide to the other stop, relock the table and cut. I made one small addition to this stop assembly. Fearing banging the metal couplings back and forth against the plywood stop bar would begin to dent the wood, I superglued one half of a metal washer to each side where the metal coupling hits the stop. This gives a much more positive and solid stop that will not dent over time.
I ended up applying 3 coats of tung oil to this just to keep it "preserved" better and give it a better look. No tung il on the bottom, just several coats of paste wax.
P.S. You may notice a couple of holes on the vertical face that don't appear to be used. That's because they aren't. I had my proverbial head up my proverbial @$$ when drilling the holes for the hold-down bar.
All the wood in this is 3/4" baltic birch ply with the exception of the walnut runner for the mitre slot and the poplar scrap I used for the hold-down bar and the backstop. Well, also there are two 1/8" hardboard strips that act as runners on the underside of the table for slots in the base.
This thing works great. I especially like the threaded rod assembly that let's you bang out lots of tenons of the same dimensions once you get the stops set correctly. No need to remove and flip your piece. Just loosen the table lock, slide to the other stop, relock the table and cut. I made one small addition to this stop assembly. Fearing banging the metal couplings back and forth against the plywood stop bar would begin to dent the wood, I superglued one half of a metal washer to each side where the metal coupling hits the stop. This gives a much more positive and solid stop that will not dent over time.
I ended up applying 3 coats of tung oil to this just to keep it "preserved" better and give it a better look. No tung il on the bottom, just several coats of paste wax.
P.S. You may notice a couple of holes on the vertical face that don't appear to be used. That's because they aren't. I had my proverbial head up my proverbial @$$ when drilling the holes for the hold-down bar.
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