Project Information
This has been an interesting project for me to research as well as to build, in that I sure had my challenges with the router. ;-) I not only read/watched everything that Eagle Lake Woodworking has on this table saw sled design and build, I also looked elsewhere for tips and techniques to make my execution/build of this project as accurate as possible. Stevin Marin has a neat YouTube Video on accurately aligning and installing runners and fences that I found useful as well. Armed with this information I was off to the shop and making dust!
Some of the modifications that I made include:
++ Used 3/4in plywood for base- I want more durability/longevity and besides I can still cut 2 1/4in even with this thick of base ;-)
++ A 56in long main fence- I wanted to be able to cut multiple pieces as long as 36in long so I made the fence on the left stick out 38in to include a stop block as well. Do note the gap in the vertical T-Track on the main fence so that the TS blade doesn't have to cut through the T-Track.
++ I moved the "adjustable" fence slots closer together than the original plans called for as well- The plans called for the slots to be 7 1/2in apart, however, I found that only got me down to a max/min angle of ~60/30 degrees. I made the slots just 6in apart and when finished I can actually get a max/min angle 70/20 degrees, so that 22 1/2 degree angle is a doable on this sled.
++ I surface mounted the T-Track on the "adjustable" fences instead of routing them flush here- I did this in order to NOT have to depend on just 1/4in of material to hold down the T-Track. This works fine and does NOT try to pull the T-Track away from what it is mounted to.
++ I added the second "main fence" T-track as recommended on Eagle Lake WW Improvements- I did, however, move the vertical facing T-Track down to mid-board as in the Stevin Marin video. I think that will work better in that position.
++ Added a second "round-over" piece to the push/pull handle- I had this left over from making a longer piece for my handle needs and decided to use the leftovers as well. In the second image you can see a lower round-over piece on the handle that I placed there to keep my thumb from migrating any closer/lower toward the blade than it needed to be. It seems to serve as a tactile reminder of where to keep my thumb when pushing/pulling the sled.
Oh, I almost forgot the most FUN that I had… I FINALLY joined the world of air tools with my first ever Ridgid #18 Finishing/Brad Nail Gun. Having never used one before, I was amazed at what I had been missing all these years… sounds stupid but wow! I now have that third hand that I never had before to hold things in place for gluing/screwing more sturdy joints. I only used the minimum amount of brads to hold but really, really, really wanted to just keep hammering away with this tool!
Kind of felt like getting that driving license at 16 and the freedom and greater possibilities that that represented.
I will eventually add more images on my own website once my web hosting service repairs/resets their domain server, so stay tuned if interested.
Some of the modifications that I made include:
++ Used 3/4in plywood for base- I want more durability/longevity and besides I can still cut 2 1/4in even with this thick of base ;-)
++ A 56in long main fence- I wanted to be able to cut multiple pieces as long as 36in long so I made the fence on the left stick out 38in to include a stop block as well. Do note the gap in the vertical T-Track on the main fence so that the TS blade doesn't have to cut through the T-Track.
++ I moved the "adjustable" fence slots closer together than the original plans called for as well- The plans called for the slots to be 7 1/2in apart, however, I found that only got me down to a max/min angle of ~60/30 degrees. I made the slots just 6in apart and when finished I can actually get a max/min angle 70/20 degrees, so that 22 1/2 degree angle is a doable on this sled.
++ I surface mounted the T-Track on the "adjustable" fences instead of routing them flush here- I did this in order to NOT have to depend on just 1/4in of material to hold down the T-Track. This works fine and does NOT try to pull the T-Track away from what it is mounted to.
++ I added the second "main fence" T-track as recommended on Eagle Lake WW Improvements- I did, however, move the vertical facing T-Track down to mid-board as in the Stevin Marin video. I think that will work better in that position.
++ Added a second "round-over" piece to the push/pull handle- I had this left over from making a longer piece for my handle needs and decided to use the leftovers as well. In the second image you can see a lower round-over piece on the handle that I placed there to keep my thumb from migrating any closer/lower toward the blade than it needed to be. It seems to serve as a tactile reminder of where to keep my thumb when pushing/pulling the sled.
Oh, I almost forgot the most FUN that I had… I FINALLY joined the world of air tools with my first ever Ridgid #18 Finishing/Brad Nail Gun. Having never used one before, I was amazed at what I had been missing all these years… sounds stupid but wow! I now have that third hand that I never had before to hold things in place for gluing/screwing more sturdy joints. I only used the minimum amount of brads to hold but really, really, really wanted to just keep hammering away with this tool!
Kind of felt like getting that driving license at 16 and the freedom and greater possibilities that that represented.I will eventually add more images on my own website once my web hosting service repairs/resets their domain server, so stay tuned if interested.
