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I'm posting this kinda as a public service on Lumberjocks. I was looking through some of the others already posted, and couldn't find Steve Latta's version, which is, IMHO for the time invested and material cost, (sure, you could do better or go overboard) the best. Steve writes for Finewoodworking magazine, and is a true master craftsman. He uses this in his recent video on making Federal furniture.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/smart-woodworking-joinery.aspx?&lookup=auto&V18=E&V19=0&V20=2&V21=N&V22=&V23=0&V24=0&V25=0&V26=0&V53=01-FEB-2009&V54=24.4&Taun_Per_Flag=true&&utm_source=email&utm_medium=eletter&utm_content=fw_eletter&utm_campaign=fine-woodworking-eletter

It's super accurate and safe, and if you build it right, it doesn't take much lumber.

I made most of mine out of 3/4 Baltic Birch plywood. I lucked out and got a width off the fence of 5 1/2" (you should plan for this, so you can easily use your fence vernier to set the distance from the blade.) The slide is maple inset in a dado, and the slider is a mix of plywood and replaceable hardwood.

I made the length that attached to the fence 22", though I probably could have used a couple more inches. The overall height of the main offset fence is 11", and I think that this is high enough.

There are all sorts of ways to jazz this up (metal clamp on the slide, etc.) but it really works quickly without one. That Steve Latta knows what he's doing. Highly recommended. FWIW, it took me about 1.5 hrs. to make it, with glue-up.

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Just saw the video the other day and was thinking I had to make me one.
Now I can see I really have to make me one.
So cool, so simple.
Thanks for the service.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

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Real important to keep the bottom cage super-flat, so you don't have to mess around with squaring the high fence with the blade each time. I did that part right-assembling it on my table saw table so that happened.
 

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Wouldn't it be easier to make tenons with a dado blade with the lumber flat on the table
 

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I've never liked dado sets, and they don't work well with the Sawstop. There are lots of different ways of doing this kind of thing-but for bridle joints, you still have to stand the piece up vertically.
 
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