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Project Information

I came across this item some time ago and finally got around to making it.

For some reason, the plan calls for the sled to be on the right side of the saw blade. But as I am not used to using my tablesaw in this manner, I converted it to the left side. Both sides sit in the miter-gauge slot. The right side is 'trapped' in location by a stop that sits in the front fence rail and the left side is free to slide front-to-back riding in the mitre-gauge slot.

The beauty of this jig is that the adjustable fence of the sliding sled (left) can be positioned at any angle through a full 180 degrees. The fixed portion (right) and the sliding sled sit almost flush against the blade making it zero clearance. For small intricate pieces such as I cut for boxes, this is ideal and it keeps my hands well clear of the blade.

I have two hold-downs shown in this picture as well as a toggle clamp (not shown). These fit anywhere along the T-Track in the fence. The stop can be positioned with the long or short side on the cutting side of the fence. The Incra T-Track grid allows infinite positioning of the fence.

Gallery

Comments

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Interesting! I've a few jigs I hang onto that this could replace if it were larger and fit on the right no the left well the correct side of the blade. Leave it to the Ausse to get it upside down and backwards!
 

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Dennis, like I state in my post, the jig was designed to go on the right side but I modified it.

So now you have me perplexed. Don't you usually place your miter gauge to the left of the blade? Why would it be better for this jig to be to the right?
 

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Just kidding every sliding table saw I've seen has the sliding section left of the blade.
 

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Oh, well don't blame the Aussies for the design. I believe the site I reference above is a US site.
 

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Funny that it would have been designed to go on the left, was the author a leftie, or perhaps using a "vintage" tablesaw perhaps.

I've only seen my father-in-law do his cutting and ripping on the right - curiously because he is right handed, as am I.
 

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I've tried both sides. My first "tablesaw" was Aussie made. So Mark's joke isn't far off the money.
 

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Just to set you all strait, David Marks' slider is on the left. I worked for a Cabinet Maker who owned an actuall sliding table saw and it was on the left, and I am left-handed and the three of us ALL agree that Don did it correctly and the designer had been smoking his running socks and looked at the plans upside down. THANK YOU DON FOR FIXING THE DESIGN FLAW. I was waiting for a Jock to submit a good sled, because i was having trouble visualising it. Good Job, Mate
 

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I've got an Exactor Sliding Table mounted to my Tablesaw. (It's made in Canada Don, by Phil Humpry, I think he's around Toronto) He was very nice to talk to. WhenI told him my problem (Cast Iron Table top 40 X 44 with no wings. He went back to his shop to make sure that it would work and then he made modifications so that it would.

I love it. I can put a 4 X 8 sheet of plywood on it and cross cut the full 48". Plenty of control. It only cuts 0 to 45 deg but each degree on the scale is about 1/4" so you can do 7.25 degs fairly easy.

I replaced the fence with an Incra track which gives me 1/32 of an inch scale on my timber length. Using Incra flip Stop, I can lift the stop up and trim the board to 90 degrees, Turn the board end for end, drop the stop and cut to length.

But saying that, your sled looks nice, Not all board ends are at 90 deg. and it looks like your sled gives you plenty of flexability to get the cut you need.
 

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Thanks, Karson. Truthfully, I only use if for very small pieces. I don't think it would be suitable for sheet goods, but it's just perfect for box making. However, as ther is no built in measuring device, It is necessary to set up the cut first with a protrator. However, considering that I made it up from stuff I already had in my "hold for later use" bin, I'm very happy with its functionality.
 

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The reason I bought the Ryobi BT 3000 is because don't have enough room in my shop to handle large items. It came factory equipped with the sliding table, so it fit all of my needs. I've had excellent results with every project I've tackled so far, & the machine didn't cost me an arm, & a leg. If I need to cut large panels I use my power handsaw with a metal guide. If I need a glueable edge, I use the guide with my router, & a straight bit.
The machine has given me 5 years of trouble free service.
 

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I just made me a sled today, and after looking at your design, I realized that I have two 4' sections of slotted guides and about 10 assorted knobs I bought from Rockler just because they were on sale. I knew eventually I'd figure out a good use for them.
 

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I am in between projects and plan on making a few shop fixtures for practice. Thanks Don! This is another reason I enjoy LJ.
 

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David, you might have already viewed my video that briefly shows this jig in use. If not, click here.

 

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Don just likes hamming it up for the Camera. I'm looking forward to Don doing live podcasts for Lumberjocks. Like how to do a Aussie Box.

Canuckie Style. Sounds like a baked goodie
 

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Don't hold you breath, Mate!
 

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Don - Just got back from a short errand. Very cool video - thanks for sharing. I like your shop! (Bit jealous actually!) Very nice table saw fixture. You are a natural in front of the camera!
 

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Somehow missed this "podcast premiere" very cool.
 

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Thanks, enjoyed the video. Also watched the videos about the wasp sander and the counterweighted drill press table. Very ingenious.
 

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Can't get the video on work server. Cool sled. How do you setup and verify square?
 

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I don't care what they say Don has it right. And I am going to put it on Don's and David Mark's side. I am going to search that site and find the plan right now…..By the way, great job with the pod cast also…..
 
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