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Project Information

When I purchased my saw, I purchased the dado cartridge and Sawstop throat plate. Honestly, I haven't even used it yet since I didn't want to use the throat plate for one size dado and then have to purchase another the next time I needed a dado (I like the idea of zero clearance for dadoes :) )

I was looking at the Infinity insert (very nice!) but I started thinking, I already have a virgin phenolic, dado throat plate, why not try making it work before plopping down $100 for an aluminum insert that will do the same thing.

Honestly, I surprised that I have not been able to find anyone else who has done one online! All the "hard" machining is already done on the bottom of the plate, it was pretty straight forward!

Now I only plan to use this for dado's and use the stock plate for regular blades so all of the inserts I made don't have a slot for the guard/spiltter. I used the regular blade on this first one since that was in the saw. I cut 14 inserts, over-sized, but still need to shape the ends on all of them.

I know this is nothing new (dovetail hardboard insert) but wanted to show that you can use a standard insert and with a little time, make a nice insert.

Thanks for looking!

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Comments

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108 Posts
very nicely done. I have the same dilemma, with my sawstop and dadoe brake and insert. Now I have that problem solved…thank you
 

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431 Posts
How'd you cut out the large dovetail? That's basically what it is….. table saw or router table?
 

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118,619 Posts
Good idea ,how did you do ?
 

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138 Posts
Originally I was planning to use just the router table and I wanted to stop the insert like the Infinity one. I was having a hard time routing it and it seems like no matter how I fed it, it was grabbing. So I went inside and took a break and then "take 2".

Here's what I did:

Put a full dado stack in the saw with cartridge and adjusted the spacing on the brake (first time doing that, a bit tedious). I leveled the insert and ran the full stack as high as it would go into the insert so I knew what I had to work with for maximum width.

After that I removed all the hardware and set screws from the insert.

Once I had the opening from the stack, I planned to make a lip of about a 1/4" for the insert to sit on it with a full stack.

I started routing out the waste with a straight bit and trying to stop it, but I was having a hard time. Eventually I decided to just run the insert the full length of the insert and ran it through the table saw with a rip blade and removed the waste. If I had the dado installed, I would have just used that.

After removing the waste and having 90° edges, I just set a dovetail bit in the router table and started taking light passes until the depth and sides were angled.

I made a few test cuts for the inserts and started cutting up some 1/4" tempered hardboard at a 14° angle.

The only piece that I had to remove from the stock insert was the set screw for the front to back slop (see the last picture) The original insert was a little sloppy, but when I cut and sanded the hardboard, I just took a few extra seconds to make sure it fit tight and it took out any play front to back.

I hope that helps.

Thanks guys!
 

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449 Posts
Absolutely wonderful idea, definitely going to do this one for myself.
 

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7,085 Posts
Great idea! When I get a dado set for my Sawstop, I'll have to "borrow" your idea!
 

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1,725 Posts
Nice idea. Something else for my project list. (-:
 

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2,199 Posts
Great idea that Iʻm going to have to try for my saw.

Thanks for sharing.
 

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67 Posts
This is great and gives me some good ideas. next time i have some free time I know what my next little project is going to be. thanks for sharing this with us.
 

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10 Posts
Shared your insert idea over at the Canadian woodworking site. Will have to copy this once I get my shop set up.
Thanks.
 

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756 Posts
Nice job. Looks like you used the dado throat plate. Do you think it would work as well with the standard throat plate, or would that be too weak since it's split on the back side?
 

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138 Posts
Rob - Personally, I would think it would be a little too flimsy with the standard insert and the split in the back.
 

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175 Posts
If I understand right the left and right halves of the phenolic plate are connected by very thin and narrow bridge? Isn't the whole construction a bit flimsy ?
 

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138 Posts
Flimsy? ..hmm…not at all..not even a little bit..it may look deceiving in the pictures..you have to use the dado insert.
 

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175 Posts
On the last picture it looks like only a third or so of the original thickness left, but as it held up 3 years it should be enough.
 
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