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Project Information

I have a small shop, and needed more space for storage… never ending battle eh? The legs and space under the side wing of the saw stop was open territory, plus the legs on the PCS are horrible if you try to move the saw. I looked this site over, pinterest, google images and came up with this concept. Made from plywood and MDF, painted gloss black and red to match the saw colors, chrome handles to match the hardware. Idea was to look OEM.

First main drawer holds my saw blades and dado set. That system really does work nice, easy to see and retrieve. The drawer above it, not shown open, holds the cartridges, push sticks, and inserts.

The red drawers hold my router bit collection, and the two red drawers below (not shown open) hold wrenches, collets, and who ha.

Two bottom drawers hold my hand held routers… well a couple of them… I can keep the bases with each one, and their respective parts. Those are on heavy duty drawer slides.

The end view shows the router lift cabinet. I have a 4" PVC DC line build into the cabinet, and cut flush to the floor of the opening. There is an opening and swivel damper above the red drawers. The damper was painted silver, and not shown, as it was drying at the time. This allows lots of cross flow air. The router table has a fence with an extraction port on it. In the first picture you can see a 2.5" hose hanging down above the Saw Stop. This connects to the Saw Stop blade shroud or the router fence port.

You can see a pork chop in the pic as well, this is a cam lift to raise the end of the cabinet so it can move. Not thrilled with this design. It is heavy and the lift is hard to engage. I don't move it much, so I will work it out a bit later. You can see I routed my cables into the floor so I don't trip on them. These are just 12 guage extension cords plugged into an outlet. and set in groove. Code or not I like them.

I have an outlet on the back of the cabinet, and the shut off switch for the router there as well. A 45 degree sled hangs on the back, and my main cross cut sled rides on a shelf so it is handy and easy to get to . The dust collection height was a pain on the Saw Stop, so I had to come from above to get a Tee in. I used one gate to stop air from the saw when useing the router table. I don't need a gate to isolate the router, it has minimal air flow with the damper closed.

A shout out to Drew, Jetlag and Brad for their posts and projects!

Gallery

Comments

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1,361 Posts
Love this. Fantastic job. I saw someone else do the same just for a storage cabinet, but didn't do the paint. I'm definitely going to paint mine now thanks to seeing how yours looks. Hopefully I can get this built soon as I also need the space as well.
 

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581 Posts
The ultimate in SawStop organization, Fantastic shop too! Thanks for inspiring
 

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10,969 Posts
Sweet looking build. Looks OEM all the way.
 

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Nice…...very nice…..!! I built an under the saw cabinet for my Unisaw X5 a few years back, and storage is taken care of for saw needs…..Like clamps, you can never have enough storage, or clamps, either….!! Good job.!
 

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Very nice. How did you apply the gloss black finish?
 

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Wow, I'm not sure what OEM stands for, but if they mean it looks like it was made for that machine then I certainly agree.

And the bench is amazing too. I'm curious about how deep is your electrical channel? Did you give the plywood extra support underneath? And, of course, how do you get everything so clean?

I'm setting up my garage-shop now and your wood floor looks mighty attractive to my concrete fatigued feet.

-Glenn
"When the whole world lives by an eye for an eye, safety glasses will be expensive!"
 

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Rob,
I used Rustoleum black gloss enamel for this project. I add a bit of retarder to it so it flows well. Sprayed with a 9.95 on sale Harbour Frieght gun. Set my compressor at 50 pounds. Thin coats are the rule. AZ has some nice weather for spray work, right out in the drive way. I will clean the gun but don't worry to much, for that price you can toss it. The red was a rattle can, just a few drawer fronts, so no need to do that. MDF edges are treated with drywall compound.
Morgan
 

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Glen,
I used to work out of my garage, but when I retired I converted my old design studio into a shop. The floors are 1/2" plywood nailed direct to the concrete with those expanding moly type nails. Holes filled with bondo. The channels are then cut in with a track saw using a crappy blade about 7/16 deep. I do love working on the level surface, my chisels love it as well, and you are right it does help on the feet!! Not sure I would do a garage shop this way, esp if you use it to park wet cars etc… it might not last.

Thanks for the comments on the shop, it is a nice space to work in. Skylights and windows are nice. I have a 3hp DC outside in a build in shed. You can run 3 pieces of equip at once, plus the floor sweep. That is the cats meow. Pick up your big waste, quick pass with the broom over the floor and push the dust and shavings into the floor sweep and you are done. Every time I empty the barrel, I blow off the machines, and clean the insides of the Saw Stop etc. Takes about an hour every week to keep it this way.

OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer
All the best and thanks for looking!
 

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This is a beautiful Sawstop router table and cabinet and is definitely a great addition to your shop. Congratulations and welcome to Lumberjocks.
 

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The router table extension, and the entire shop is magnificent, truly a beautiful shop and tool set up.

I would like to know what you used for the top surface of the router table section.

Could you guys give me a clue about where I can see the electrical channel in those pics, please? I did not know there was one until woodketeer mentioned it above.

Thanks for the post, AzmO, and for any followup replies!
 

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Jim,
The router table top is the stock Saw Stop version. If it wears out, I will build another in black as well. No my favorite top as it a bit thin. Saw Stop used one layer of MDF with formica, and a grid of underlying supports to reinforce it. I like a 1.5" thick top of MDF with formica.

In just about every picture you will see a black line running in the plywood. In the first pic you will see the wire coming from the left to Saw Stop switch and a strain relief board under it to keep the wire in place. The router end also has a cord coming over, with the same strain relief under the cabinet and about 6' of cord coiled up so when you move the saw your cord can move as well.

Hope that helps! Thanks for the kind words on the shop. That Roubo Bench Crafted bench is my favorite tool. It is so versatile at holding my work. Truly worth building, this one being Ash.
 

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Thanks, AzmO. I did see the black cords, but i did not pick up that they were inlet into the flooring. Seeing those urn across the floor is what made me wonder where the in-floor wiring was located. I get it now!

Now for another clarification, please. Did you attache the router table top to the fence rails that extend across the front and back f it? Or, is the router top fully detached and free to move if you opted to do so?
I am asking to gain ideas, as I intend to do something similar in my saw wing, although certainly mine will not be so nicely done.
 

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I see in the background you built the Shopnotes mortising table. How do you like it? I recently ordered the hardware for that project and am curious if it works as well as it looks, and any glitches you may have run into. Oh and nice job on the cabinet. I like all the natural light and your Grizzly jointer
 

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Awesome looking cabinet. I have a Laguna Fusion F2 on the way so maybe I'll do this in Black and Silver.
 

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Jim,
The table bolts to the fence rail iron. The cabinet is screwed to the table top, and has it's own casters. It goes where the saw goes! I felt a cart under it would be hard to move with the saw, kind of like both of them fighting the same real estate.
Not hard to make something nice. just a step at a time.
 

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Ross 1219,
I like the cross feed for the mortising table. It works OK… When new it was easy to turn the handles, with age it has a bit of bind from dirt and debris that I have been unable to solve. I find the wheels to be to small and wish they were larger diameter so it was easier to turn. Layout and perfect alignment on the cross bars is the key here. 1/32 off and it wont work.
 

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Very nice saw. And good cabinet design. Good luck to your shop!!
 
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