Project Information
After seeing SoCal Bobs's Chisel drawer a while back I knew I needed to do something to keep my rasps organized. Not only to appeal to my "need" for order but to keep them from rubbing against one another and dulling them in the drawer.
Since I use these almost everyday, I dedicated the top drawer in my main bench cabinet and tried out a few sizes until I found a working layout. The gap between the dividers is 1.5" which is the smallest I could use and still fit the handles in. The dividers are 1/4" thick oak I ripped from leftover scrap and ran through the planer to be exactly the thickness to match my finger-joint blade set for the table saw.
I cut the front and back strip to exactly the inside width of the drawer and starting cutting the grooves using my purpose-built jig (third picture) which was simply a mitre gauge backer board with a groove cut 1.5" from the blade edge and a 1/8" thick strip glued into it to align the frame pieces to ensure consistent spacing - this took 5 minutes to make. I taped the front and back pieces together and proceeded to cut them at the same time.
The drawer bottom is the black no-slip mesh that was in the drawer before, this cuts the rattling noise down when opening and closing the drawer. The dividers are cut to length to fit snugly into the slots and a touch of glue. The front and back rails are not glued to the drawer so its easy to remove if I want to down the road.
I still need to do this for my carving chisel drawer, but only one tedious job at a time.
Thanks for reading.
Since I use these almost everyday, I dedicated the top drawer in my main bench cabinet and tried out a few sizes until I found a working layout. The gap between the dividers is 1.5" which is the smallest I could use and still fit the handles in. The dividers are 1/4" thick oak I ripped from leftover scrap and ran through the planer to be exactly the thickness to match my finger-joint blade set for the table saw.
I cut the front and back strip to exactly the inside width of the drawer and starting cutting the grooves using my purpose-built jig (third picture) which was simply a mitre gauge backer board with a groove cut 1.5" from the blade edge and a 1/8" thick strip glued into it to align the frame pieces to ensure consistent spacing - this took 5 minutes to make. I taped the front and back pieces together and proceeded to cut them at the same time.
The drawer bottom is the black no-slip mesh that was in the drawer before, this cuts the rattling noise down when opening and closing the drawer. The dividers are cut to length to fit snugly into the slots and a touch of glue. The front and back rails are not glued to the drawer so its easy to remove if I want to down the road.
I still need to do this for my carving chisel drawer, but only one tedious job at a time.
Thanks for reading.
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