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Peek-a-boo, I see through you.

This plane was made as part of the recent Surprise Tool Swap and sent to Mark Kornell.

The design process was many months long and started with thinking that I wanted to build an infill smoother. The biggest problem is that while I have started to warm up to infill designs, Konrad Sauer's in particular, I still find the abundance of metal to feel cold and heavy. In response, I wanted to design a plane with the performance of an infill, but showing off more wood and exuding a lighter, warmer vibe.

The first challenge was to figure out how to stiffen the sides while accomplishing the main goals. An all wood design was possible (basically a Krenov type construction for the cheeks) but just wasn't what I was after. At some point, I thought about using metal rods for rigidity and ran with the idea. Several design iterations later, I started thinking about how utilizing the interaction of the metal rods with a coffin shaped body would look and ended up with this Sketchup model:



The next part was actually building it. And boy, did I underestimate the challenges.

Knowing that there would be lots of ideas to work out on the fly, I first built a prototype out of cherry and using 1/4in aluminum rods, since they would be fairly easy to machine. Working on it allowed me to learn quite a bit about how to do the work better, and I started on the swap plane.

The body is laminated walnut with quarter sawn sycamore for the tote section. It is about the size of a #4, being 9in long (without the tote) and ~2-1/2in wide, but uses a #3 sized, 1-3/4 inch wide, iron. Sole is 1/8 O1 tool steel (still in the annealed state) and the rods are 1/4in stainless steel. The aluminum in the prototype, while easy to machine, just lacked the heft needed for a quality tool. The sole is epoxied onto the body, which should work fine as long as Mark doesn't overheat it by planing at super speed. ;-)

I had originally planned to use a NOS Stanley iron set, but when testing the prototype, the arched cap iron was causing issues with chip clearance, so I took advantage of a Lee Valley free shipping period and ordered a couple O1 iron and chip breaker sets. The flat cap iron worked much better. The iron is bedded at 50 degrees (York pitch) for use in straight grained to lightly figured hardwoods.

Another part of the original plan was to use vintage #3 lever caps, as can be seen on the cherry prototype in pic 5. After getting most of the plane completed, I just wasn't digging the look. That meant trying something else, so I made a screw cap out of some 3/8 O1 steel left over from my shooting plane builds. The screw is a 5/16 stainless steel hex bolt with a SS washer, nut and walnut epoxied and then turned on the lathe to a knob. The retaining screw goes down through a brass lined hole into a cross bolt that was sunk before gluing up the rear section. That should allow plenty of strength to withstand the pulling forces.

After shipping the walnut plane out, I decided to try a laminated screw cap on the cherry plane and epoxied 1/8 O1 steel with some jatoba, as can be seen in the last pic. There is still quite a bit of design work that can be done on the caps to make them look better, but these first ones seem to function just fine.

Final touch was to add the laser engraved medallions I've started putting on my work. Finish is Danish oil on the prototype and tote of the swap plane and Antique Oil on the walnut, to give a bit more sheen.

I learned a lot through the process of making these planes and plan to see if I can continue to evolve the design. Hopefully Mark will report back when he's been able to use the plane for a while. There are lots of planes out there that can make see-through shavings, but now we have the see-through plane.

Thanks for looking and hope you enjoy.

Gallery

Comments

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Your hard work paid off JayT as that is one fine hand plane. Good show!
 

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That's really amazing, Jay. It reminds me of a "mid century modern" type of design, as they would say on antiques roadshow. Never seen a plane with semi-open cheeks before, I like it. Now I kind of want to see one where the rods come out the front, bend in a U, then continue around to make the other side.
 

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That may be one of the coolest things I have ever seen. Does it work as well as it looks? Absolutely fabulous. The walnut one…wow.

Any chance you'd share your sketchup drawing? Or if you are selling the planes, let me (us) know.
 

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Amazing buddy. Seriously awesome. In your experience do you think brass rods would work as well as the stainless?
 

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Excellent creativity and execution. Love the quarter sawn sycamore. I am going to look at the front a bit more to figure out how I feel about it.

Thanks for sharing a new design.
 

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I will certainly report on how it works. And wax the sole regularly to avoid overheating :)

I would think that brass rods might be too soft. The entire rigidity of the plane is carried by those rods, really don't want them to flex or.bend.
 

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A fantastic idea. Well planned and well executed. Sometimes,I can't believe the creativity and skill that exists on this forum. This inspires me to get more creative and daring on my next project… when I figure out what that will be, that is…
 

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Stunning, JayT, the concept, design, wood and metal choices, and execution! Wow!!
 

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That's pretty cool!
 

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Thanks for the positive comments.

Now I kind of want to see one where the rods come out the front, bend in a U, then continue around to make the other side.

- bobasaurus
Interesting idea. I'd be willing to try it if I could figure out a way to accurately bend the rods on plane in a precise arc. It would look like the hand plane version of a Cord



That may be one of the coolest things I have ever seen. Does it work as well as it looks? Absolutely fabulous. The walnut one…wow.

Any chance you d share your sketchup drawing? Or if you are selling the planes, let me (us) know.

- OrvsR4me
I didn't have much time to test before shipping, but think it should work well. We'll see what Mark has to say after using for a bit.

Honestly, I've already thought about trying to see what it would take to manufacture and sell on a very limited basis. Need to gather quite a bit more information before making that decision.

The Sketchup is actually rather crude and won't show you anything you can't determine from the pics-it was done to work on look and proportions and doesn't have any of the internals or construction help.

Seriously awesome. In your experience do you think brass rods would work as well as the stainless?

- ki7hy
I thought about brass, but agree with Mark that it may be too soft. I know there is hardened brass out there, but have no experience with it. I think phospor bronze may have some good potential, however, for a similar look to brass, but with the necessary rigidity.
 

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That is one very nice plane. The design is futuristic looking. Great job!
 

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"Interesting idea. I'd be willing to try it if I could figure out a way to accurately bend the rods on plane in a precise arc. It would look like the hand plane version of a Cord"

Easy Peasy JayT:


Google metal rod benders and there's a bunch of different types.

Harbor Freight sells one type at a cost effective rate:
 

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This is truly remarkable Jay and I mean that as sincerely as possible. Dave was so impressed with your progress pics that I was expecting something awesome but this just blew me away! The execution itself is quite a feat. Getting the intersections where the rods exit the wood smooth and "intentional" looking must have been quite a chore in and of itself. But beyond even that, just the concept and the design indicate the level of craftsmanship.

Bravo Jay!

And I can't believe it hasn't been pointed out yet but, this screams Bridge City! :))
 

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And I can t believe it hasn t been pointed out yet but, this screams Bridge City! :))

- HokieKen
Don't take this the wrong way, but if so, then I failed in the design concept. Bridge City has great steam-punk-esque designs and flawless execution, but their planes, being all metal, come off very cold-which is exactly what I was trying to avoid. Being compared to them is high praise, but I'm not enamored with their style.

wahoo, I don't think there is any way I could execute the compound curves necessary with one of those and end up with three sections exactly the same and at a very precise width. Even the tiniest difference could put torque on the body and throw it out of square. One body glue up was scrapped because of a slight twist that I was afraid would cause issues. If it was going to be done, it would have to be outsourced to a company that had computer controlled bending equipment. Maybe I'm making more of the issue than it would be in reality.
 

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wahoo, I'll work up a Sketchup using one consistent 180 degree arc and see how it all interacts. Re-thinking it for a bit, it might be possible that way, though the intersecting woodwork would be a challenge.
 

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Very interesting. I wonder how stiff the sides are and how well it will work out. I guess if they aren't completely rigid then it might conform to the surface better for smoothing?

For aesthetics, I think it would look even better with a longer and pointier nose, like the car you posted without the fenders/wheels up front. Nicely done.
 

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"wahoo, I'll work up a Sketchup using one consistent 180 degree arc and see how it all interacts. Re-thinking it for a bit, it might be possible that way, though the intersecting woodwork would be a challenge."

Thanks for not putting road blocks ahead of your creativity.

You have a unique and well received plane ideas, rock on!
 
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