Project Information
I needed an outfeed table for my saw but I didn't want to have it permanently attached to the saw. I also didn't want a free standing table that would consume valuable real estate in my shop. This table meets my needs quite nicely.
The table is 24" deep and 42" wide. It is made from 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood, poplar and some 4/4 oak for banding and the rail. Photo 1 shows the table attached to the tablesaw. The oak rail sits on the fence rail of the tablesaw. Photo 2 is the table with the legs folded flat. The leg set is 24" wide and has adjustable levelers. Photo 3 shows how the leg set in hinged to the undercarriage of the table. I used 3" utility hinges. The top of the legs are rounded to prevent hang up while folding. The tee nut is used with a knob to log the legs open and to prevent them from kicking out. Photo 4 shows the knob. The two poplar tabs with holes allow the table to be hung on hooks (french cleats) when not in use. I didn't want to modify or drill holes in the fence rail system, so I decided to use heavy duty toggle clamps (two 200 lb clamps) to attach the table to the tablesaw. Photo 5 shows one of the toggle clamps. The holes in the oak rail line up with the cap screws on my fence rails. It helps keep the outfeed table and table saw miter slots aligned. Photo 6 is a shot from below showing how the toggle clamp locks the table to the tablesaw rail. Construction was glue and pockethole screws for the undercarriage. The oak trim is glued and nailed. The table is finished with satin polyurethane and wax. Now that I have this table, I wonder why I did without for so long.
The table is 24" deep and 42" wide. It is made from 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood, poplar and some 4/4 oak for banding and the rail. Photo 1 shows the table attached to the tablesaw. The oak rail sits on the fence rail of the tablesaw. Photo 2 is the table with the legs folded flat. The leg set is 24" wide and has adjustable levelers. Photo 3 shows how the leg set in hinged to the undercarriage of the table. I used 3" utility hinges. The top of the legs are rounded to prevent hang up while folding. The tee nut is used with a knob to log the legs open and to prevent them from kicking out. Photo 4 shows the knob. The two poplar tabs with holes allow the table to be hung on hooks (french cleats) when not in use. I didn't want to modify or drill holes in the fence rail system, so I decided to use heavy duty toggle clamps (two 200 lb clamps) to attach the table to the tablesaw. Photo 5 shows one of the toggle clamps. The holes in the oak rail line up with the cap screws on my fence rails. It helps keep the outfeed table and table saw miter slots aligned. Photo 6 is a shot from below showing how the toggle clamp locks the table to the tablesaw rail. Construction was glue and pockethole screws for the undercarriage. The oak trim is glued and nailed. The table is finished with satin polyurethane and wax. Now that I have this table, I wonder why I did without for so long.
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